CSP billet clutch is a good add on approx. $800 ...An OHLINS rear shock $600 .CSP Fuel tank billet cap $70.......... Raptor titanium Footrests $190 .....Renthal fatbars $90 and there are plenty more visit www.splatshop.co.uk for an aladdins cave of accessorising things and stuff.
Don’t forget the gold toe capped Alpine Stars boots and the super lightweight knotted handkerchief head wear! Helmets are so last year and the riders clobber is sooo important.
I have been out and stripped the bike down to give it a proper clean and search for the fan relay plug , no sign of it at the rear brake reservoir and wiring only branches from ecu to angle sensor/stator and regulator along with a small red capped plug.
Managed to bleed the rear brake properly though which was a bonus
The only wires correct to the fan relay are up at the headstock and when I put live to the relay output wire then the fan runs.
With a bit of luck its been an honest mistake , the only other thing I can think of is that the temp sensor in rad is faulty and instead of replacing then they cut the relay off but if this was faulty then surely this would potentially make the bike run poorly which its not.
Hopefully get a rc-2208 relay tomorrow and fit some insulated spades to the wiring in pics then try and tuck it in the headstock to get the fan running then will replace the coolant as noticed its a bit low and just level with the top of the rad cores.
Again, thanks for the help much appreciated.
Bleed the cooling system. Refill SLOWLY with correct mix of distilled water and anti freeze wish the bike held upright ( not on side stand) . Allow a few minutes for air to escape and coolant to settle. Run engine with rad cap off for about 4-5 minutes. Turn engine off and again allow coolant to settle....some may have been expelled by running engine and trapped air getting out, top up and run engine again for 4-5 minutes. Refit rad cap and run until cooling fan cuts in. KEEP an eye on temperature with a digital thermometer do not allow temp to go above 90 degrees C, your engine should operate around a steady 72-75 degrees C under normal conditions; this is the optimum for fuel burning and what we engine tuners aim for, any more or less and power drops off. And here comes the first wave of ‘oh no it doesn’t’ commentators.
There is no separate breather on the clutch case. I think this vents through the gearbox.
Good point on using clear tubing. (The gearbox tube and threaded coupling is actually blocked solid with gunge!!).
Another question.
The final drive sprocket is a push fit onto the g/box output shaft, and this is then followed by a 'sprung loaded cup' over an O ring on the shaft itself. In order to keep these on the shaft there must be a circlip or something that then fits into a groove on the outer end of the shaft. I can't make out what this is actually supposed to be or look like from the illustration in the parts book. p/n 6763.165.
That probably isn’t correct, if the clutch vents through the gearbox you will have oil being sploshed into the gearbox or vice versa! Their cunning these manufacturers even to the point of relying on a tiny hidden hole to do the venting. Sprocket held in place by circlip.
You have an oil leak from the water pump drive shaft. Either been installed incorrectly or damaged through age etc. The hole is the tell tale to prevent oil and coolant mixing.
Take the throttle that has a bearing off and fit one that does not have one ...problem solved......Trials motorcycles have their own equipment manufacturers not connected to Moto-X stuff like pro taper Domino throttles are the ones that are mainly supplied OEM....... RYP shercousa.com will be able to supply what you need.
Will you be adding a nose fairing and belly pan
Don’t forget rearsets and clip-ons! Oh and louder power sapping exhaust!
It’s a Trials bike not a rip snorting super motard. Just how many trials TRIALS bike have you seen with full hand guards??? Even Carl Fogarty only used them once and that was to stop other riders yanking his brake lever on, that don’t happen in trials. Save your hard earned ????and ride the bike to find out what you really need. We have a saying here in UK it is this....”All the gear and no idea”. No disparaging remarks intended against you, but you are heading that way??????
Don’t remove these breathers from the bike. Make sure the pipes are good and flexible, not perished or clogged inside. Make sure that where the pipes attach to the cases that the holes are clear. Route the pipes where they cannot let water in but allow moisture out. Your suggested routing sounds good but I doubt you will need a one way valve, possibly a ‘U’ bend in the breather pipe behind the tank to delay water entry if you drop the bike in deep is water. Clear pipes a good idea as you can see what’s gong on! Fitting the gearbox breather into the air box is not a bad idea either.
Pressure is inversely proportional to area, so via extrapolation a zero disc area (100% air) will have infinite pressure. You could be on to something
Ah but you haven’t allowed for the earths gravitational pull. Then of course air pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi so the higher in altitude you ride the less infinite pressure you will have! A compressed air cylinder would be needed, thus adding weight back so probably weighing more than the conventional braking system.????
Is this bike new to you and when you say “less speed in fifth” what speeds had you been doing. From your description when riding the engine was trying to seize up or nip up as some would say. It appears from your description that you have overheated the engine, possibly a coolant issue. Excessive down hill runs with throttle shut will starve piston and rings of oil, possibly causing the rings to eat the cylinder bore and scuff the piston ring land area. You might not have used the correct fuel and oil mix ratio. If you are lucky it might only be a blown head gasket, but then some compression would leak into the cooling system and cause coolant to be forced out of the overflow or rad cap (model not known). Not certain if your bike has a cooling fan but this may not be working and could be the causal effect. Hope you can sort the problem ?
Hi , looking for some help with my new to me 16 4rt.
I was out on it today for a short while and brought it home and washed it then fired it up to burn some of the water of the engine and thought id let it run till the fan came on.
It sat running for about 10-15 mins as was not sure when the fans normally come on and no sign of the fan coming on so turned it off.
After further investigation , I have found no sign of a fan relay anywhere but found cut wires which had been taped up and insulated, two red , a blue and a black so I'm assuming this is the fan relay wires and why my fans not coming on.
1st question , will I have overheated it with it sat idling with no fan on for 10-15 mins ? no overflow from rad or boiling over and bike is still starting and sounding ok.
2nd question , can anyone help me with wiring /diagram to wire a new relay in when I source one.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Grant
You should be ok engine temperature wise, if there was; as you say, no overflow or boiling over. If the cooling system appears to have been buggered about with then some extra checks need to be performed. Find out if you can why the wires were cut, previous owner contact needed. The coolant temperature sensor may be faulty. Does the cooling fan run and spin freely if you connect direct to a power 12v source? I would suggest that you dump the current coolant fluid and replenish with new distilled water and the correct anti-freeze. This raises the boiling point of water and very often cheap inferior anti-freeze will allow overheating. Use distilled water as this will have no impurities that can attack the aluminium of the engine etc. even though the anti-freeze will contain corrosion inhibitors etc. A last check would be to ensure that the coolant pump actually works, in your case because the engine ran with no overheating it’s probably alright, but it can’t hurt to make sure. The more you know your way around bike the better??
Hi Thanks for your reply, yes its a swinging arm model .the smallest gear box sprocket available 16 teeth .I think 52 teeth will lower the gearing enough hopefully thanks mick
Good to see another ‘old one’ breathing...ah the sound of a big un!
Peter_Steer your current bike; if as your profile, should have smooth and lightish control operation. Just as with miles of road riding finger joints and other parts stiffen up and detract from the enjoyment of riding. Like others have suggested experiment with control positions, don’t forget that handlebar position and most especially height can have a marked effect on your body and posture. Have a good look at alternative levers offered as direct replacements for the standard controls.
Analysis of your riding position, stance helps to, you may be clenching the throttle and this will soon create soreness etc in the hand and wrist joint, look at how you hold the throttle. Your chosen lever position may be the route cause and a change is as good as a rest. When doing high road miles, no matter what bike; and I have had quite a few, changing feet and body position slightly keeps your body from becoming cramped, stiff and harder to react. This is a bad situation for road riding and even worse for quick responses off road. Enduro riding has equally the same issues. The pointy bits you mention on your knuckles sound to be similar to the repetitive strain injuries the likes of which builders tend to suffer. Others who use their hands a lot, mechanics, engineers etc also tend to have the same problems, other trades to.
I have a trapped nerve in my spine which left me with limited feeling in my right leg and pins and needle pain which is permanent. I also have neck issues brought about by years of wearing helmets and fighting the wind pressure trying to pull my head off when travelling at speed, no fairing to hide behind; likewise the constant bouncing about off road wearing a helmet did not help...what we do for fun eh!
A consultation with your local GP would not go amiss if you have not already done so. Me personally, I now take 2 Paracetamol 500mg tablet/capsule each and 20 minutes later I take 1 ibuprofen 400mg capsule when in pain or stiffening up. Then repeat the dose after or at the recommended time lapse. This is not what I am saying anyone else should take without first consulting a medical professional.
Aloe Vera and any moisturiser cream is good for your finger and hand joints, the massage is the key factor. Aloe Vers based drinks work for some people, Cod Liver oil tablets can have a marked effect on joints all over the body.
Riding with two fingers on the levers (or three) is good for quick responses, but try not to ride all the time like this as the tendons need to change position and tension regularly. The way most Trials bike are set up you tend to find that the levers are set for operation from the standing position and are often difficult to use while seated. Some will no doubt say they don’t have issues but then they may have bigger hands, longer fingers or just be more supple!
Guard against the cold getting to your hands to. Hope this helps you to continue and enjoy your sport?
Move the lever mounts as far inward as possible to get the most leverage. I find s3 digit levers the best as they are thinner. What kind of bike do you ride?
Your 350 AJS will most likely still have road ratios in the gearbox. Is this a rigid rear or swinging arm model, it was around this time 1954 that frames changed. You also need to check the rear hub as some had the sprocket as part of the hub. The engine may have a 14 tooth sprocket. The rear sprocket could be 48 tooth+ there are some variables and you might want 52 tooth. Is this a 16 MS ?
Hi i am looking for a set of fork stanchions for my pursang 370 mk11.
35mm X 645mm
Can anybody put me in the right direction.
Thanks
Looks like the bikes been used as an anchor
12 hours ago, Paddy Conway said:
Hi i am looking for a set of fork stanchions for my pursang 370 mk11.
35mm X 645mm
Can anybody put me in the right direction.
Thanks
Looks like the forks have been in salt water. There are loads of companies that do hard chroming and regrind to size. It all depends on how deep the corrosion has gone. There are also some engineers out there that will make new stanchions for you probably ar the same cost of refurbing the original. Have a Google search on front fork repairs, Hope you get them sorted.? In Motion have a complete Pursang rolling chassis advertised on their site, just in case.
You need to check the inside of the fork tube for high spots, look on the outside for signs of impact damage which could cause an internal high spot. The fork stanchion may be bent or a bush maybe the cause.
hanguard install 2013 sherco 250st
in Sherco
Posted · Edited by section swept
Don’t forget the gold toe capped Alpine Stars boots and the super lightweight knotted handkerchief head wear! Helmets are so last year and the riders clobber is sooo important.