Marquez, that cheeky chappy. He rides like he is ‘the’ most important person out on the track. Marquez must be taken down a peg or two and a three race ban should sort him out. That also might make Honda think a bit harder about employing a liability, imagine it Marquez barging round the track, that’s most of the satellite team hondas knocked out of the way and then there’s just that Pedrosa bloke to go......I Marquez your leathers with ma tyres when you get in my....in my way!!!! Post race interviews he will say we ad a gooood er race, I was lucky every body fall off but er my tyres were holding up, I just wanna thank my team for a good bulldozer...I mean a goood er set up.
Well valve clearance adjustments, very fiddly. Oil and filter changes, oil strainer to clean, access to both restricted. Then there’s timing chain tensioner concerns. All the extra parts of a four stroke mean extra weight too.
Why not just a strip of 16swg or 1.6mm steel with two holes drilled. This would be far stronger than welded washers. Easy for me to say that as I have access to a workshop full of off cut sheet steel. (stored behind the laser cutter..........now thats an idea)
Stuart
Yep that’s a much better engineered way of doing it, but I wanted to explain the shape. Then of course welded together followed on. I too once had access to a very similar supply of ‘free’ steel, but alas no more☹️
You’ve got the dosh, buy a good used two stroke Trials bike and practice, practice and practice some more. Keep it clean, learn about it, fettle or fiddle with the twiddly bits and see what that does but do it a little at a time.....like you probably did with your road bike. You never know you may be so pleased with getting an older bike looking the business that you save your dosh and just stay with the old bike??? Please practice where it is legal and not causing grief so that trials events get it in the neck. Those Honda 4stroke Trials engines do need a lot of maintenance compared to a two stroke, another buying consideration. 0 % finance is great if you haven’t got the capital or fancy keeping it, but how much discount might you get buying with cash? The Honda TLM would look excellent on the wall over my fireplace. Any of the latest trials offerings would be nice just to sit and study, the way everything goes together neatly and oh so closely fitted???just as some of the pre65’s have their own allure!
As already indicated, old fuel, evict spider from tank breather. Your red kill switch shouldn’t ring any bells?but you could make sure it’s not shorting out. Anything left over a period of time will succum to deterioration, so a thorough check of the air filter and pipe work down to the carb is needed. There may be crud in the tank and crud in the carb float bowl (probably the fault you have). Oil seals will harden and bearings will corrode when left standing especially crankshaft bearings main and big end. Oil can build up in the crankcase and cause issues. A trick I learned from a Greeves Works rider could be the answer. Watching in the pits at Houghton Conquest, I couldn’t understand why when he’d got the Challenger running (numerous kicks) he’d then lay the bike right over onto one did and rev the nuts off the engine. Then he’d swap sides and do it again...”clears the oil out of the crankcase” ...seemed perfectly reasonable to me then. I have always done this on any of my two strokes, amazing the difference to throttle response it makes. Oh and he won his race that day to?
Set the ‘sag’ with no weight on bike. You’ll possibly need a second person to help. Hold the bike upright, gently lift the rear of the bike up so as to unload the suspension. Carefully release the bike so that it ‘sags’ back down, look at the way the bike reacts. Now select a good datum point to take measurements from, I would suggest a piece of tape stuck onto the mudguard in line with the rear wheel spindle. Now lift the bike up again a release, but this time measure the full extension and the final resting position measurement. Most manufacturers will have specs for sag but I would look for 20mm. This means that the rear spring is supporting the bike and being compressed by an inch to do so. NOTE this first base line measurment is normally done with any compression and rebound damping fully off. Adjust the spring seat collars to achieve the one inch. There may be a member with more set up experience of the TXT300 that can give you alternative specs. Now the next bit, put on what you would normally ride in including boots and helmet. Have a dump if needed to get closer to racing weight! Get your helper to measure how much further the bike sags when you get on, do this next to a wall and you can balance the bike upright while they measure sag. There is no need to stand up unless you feel compelled. The sag measurement ought now to be somewhere about or 50-60mm. Thats the rear done, now the front. Wipe clean a fork stanchion and put a cable tie around it just tight enough for it to be slide up and down by hand without it moving from where you left it. Slide the cable tie down to sit on the dust seal or cover, push down on the front forks a few times. Now lift the bike at the front by the handlebars so that the forks are unloaded slide the cable tie down to the cover, let the bike settle back down. Lift the front end and measure the distance between the cover and the tie, this is front sag. Aim for about 25-30mm sag. Now still kitted out get back on the bike and measure the front sag. Your added weight will make the cable tie slide further up as the fork compresses. You are looking for approximately 30mm plus the initial sag. Now bounce about on the bike and re-check your measurements, ensure that no rear pivots are sticking or front forks binding. Adjusting the compression and rebound are next and these will be different for the weight of the rider and the type of ground being covered, mostly a compromise setting will be needed. As far as ‘bunny hooping’ that may be down to technique, no disrespect to you, or it may be a combination of tyres and suspension set up. Keith Code, American racing legend has a number of his set up films that may help further. I have assumed that other contributing factors like damper condition, fork oil levels and oil weights are to spec. Suspension set up is not the dark art some would have you believe, damper internal shims and valves is a bit more complicated. Hope this helps you to get to grips sorting your bike??
Increase base gasket size cleaned all carbon from head piston and exhaust carb is jetted to spec in manual running out of things to do
Check crankshaft oil seals, timing, fuel mix ratio, buy your fuel from somewhere else as a test. Check for piston/cylinder bore wear. Experiment with altering ignition timing a couple of degrees retarded. Has this bike always pinked or started to do it recently? I assume that it is actually the engine pinking and not some other mechanical wear or fault misleading you, like chain rattling on frame etc.?
Went out to garage, opened doors and looked at frame on racking, looked across at wheels stored under racking, looked at weather, looked time, looked at she who must be obeyed, closed garage door, scowled at next doors cat, went shopping!
The pivot posts are an interference fit and hence the cracking caused by corrosion and brut force at some stage. The two posts can be left with their own individual circlips but the link helps increase support. Two washers welded together OO would do nicely. The brake plate anchor post is not that critical on a Trials bike as the speeds are low, it’s probably been cracked for years and held by the shoe, so it’s not going anywhere. You may find a plate in good nick, but it will be probably just as old and have it’s own faults; but yours welded ( by TIG) and then bored to size will be good, you will have the satisfaction in knowing it’s a good job. Fit the post back in with stud lock or similar if going the weld repair route.?
You would have thought that the engine designers had already allowed for squish band design, but probably not for the lousy fuel that’s now being served up everywhere. Using extra base gaskets will raise all the ports and possibly have an affect upon performance. Not knocking (sorry about that) anyone’s suggested cures but is it a cure or just moving the problem. Removing material from the combustion chamber will lower compression and affect performance, even though the pinking might have gone. Pinking is really detonation and the cause is usually something causing the fuel and air mix to start burning before the correct ignition point. Potentially petrol/oil mix not as the manufacturer specified could create the fault. Carbon on the piston crown becoming to hot and glowing will cause the fault and air leaking in to the combustion process via crankcase/shaft seals. Exhaust systems leaking together with poor back pressure will allow fuel/air mix to escape leaning the mixture and creating ‘pinking’ or more correctly detonation.??
Like many young people it is very easy for them to become distracted, especially at school, college call it what you will. Teachers have had a lot of their powers so stunted that the school children or students have the upper hand right from the start. You only need a few misbehaving individuals to ruin a whole class of willing learners. Your boys street cred will go up with some of his group for riding trials let alone having a Dad who wants his son to ride! The technical information side of trials and the machines could be the nucleus of a re think for him about maths and science, then of course there’s the history of it all. If we all think back to our school days there were some very influential teachers about with lots of life experiences, nowadays the teachers are very young and short on any life skills coming straight from uni. Please do not get me wrong there are some very good teachers but few and far between. Roudy school children soon dampen any enthusiasm. Maybe your boy will, with the good guidance and interest you appear to have will help him immensely.
Yep agree and that’s the cause of the leak! A strip cut from a yogurt pot will clean the seal lip if you are careful. That clip just doesn’t look right, reflection or not!!!???
I'm good with flat surfaces, but it's the 2 way curvature that is a bit of concern.
The mudguard and stickers arrived today, so I'll give it a go on Saturday when I've got some time to take it carefully and can get on the kitchen table. Sounds like I best not ask the wife to give me a hand because it could end in tears. Most probably mine when I've buggered £60 worth of graphics that have gone wrong.
Fingers crossed...
Leave the graphics off, as you’ll probably damage the new rear mudguard again. Keep the graphics for when you sell the bike. Stickers never made a bike any better to ride.
I went from gas gas 250's to a Montesa 4rt then a beta evo 300 4t... I wouldn't go back to a 2t as I find the 4t easier to find grip with and even the 300 is docile... My son rides an evo 300 4t considerable harder than I could even dream about but it's also mellow enough for my over 50's style!..We've also got a Rev 4T 250 which is even more docile.. Don't let the carb issue put you off... It's a bit tricky on both bikes but not difficult, just take your time.
Oil and filter change is easier than a Montesa, the filter has its own cover with three bolts and same oil for engine and clutch. I grant you that the valve adjustment will need the engine out but it shouldn't be a regular occourance to adjust them. If anything it'll give you the opportunity to give it a good clean and inspection if they do need doing.
Any bike will run away if you get it wrong... And after a short time you'll perfect the art of bailing off the bike rather than holding on for too long!.. Good luck!
If one is fitted it must be securely attached to the frame or swing arm. There is no requirement to have a main stand or side stand on a motorcycle as stated previously by teamferret.
Ask your boy what he wants because if you tell him what to ride it may just irk him against giving it a good go. Both of you have a good look at what others are using, especially your sons age group, there’s nothing like being oh so last year....if you see what I mean...it’s the same with football boots and kit. Prepare for some expense...you’ll both enjoy it better if it’s a joint thing?
Protect the internal sides of the van body by panelling out with some 3-ply wood to keep the weight down. Add a few wooden battons at footrest and handlebar height to lean the bike(s) against when putting them in the back. Rather than a rock ( as suggested previously, which may work well if it stays in place) to stop the bikes moving in transit try to arrange the tie downs mor effectively i.e. from one tie down anchor through and around the rear wheel to the other side anchor. A nice bright led interior light would be a benefit and maybe some where to attach a small vice at the rear of the van, but out of the loading area. Black out any rear door widows to keep toe rags eyes from seeing what’s in your van. Get yourself a good immobiliser so the van is still there in the morning, nice for the toe rags to discover that not only have they nicked your van but ended up with a bike and some goodies too!
The brake plate is the correct one for an early Sherpa. The two pivot post anchors should have a small brace plate bit like an oversized chain link plate fitted on after the shoes, without you can get cracking. From your picture it may be that some one has tried to force the pivot post in without preparing properly and caused the cracking. The plate is made from reasonable quality cast alloy and should weld nicely given correct cleaning prep etc. You may also want to inspect the brake quadrant spindle as this will most certainly be worn in the brake plate as there is no bush. I have just made a bush and reground the spindle to effect a reasonable smooth fit without any slop! If your brake drums are badly worn ( cast iron liner/sleeve ) then Villiers Services can supply thicker oversized brake linings for £20? You need to take a few easy measurements and they do the rest, good service and less costly than some others. If you have chromed brake drum linings then it’s more complicated. My M80 is 1972 and I’m pretty sure your bike will have cast iron brake drum lining. Lining refers to the surface that the brake shoes rub against and not the shoe lining material.
Had the self same thing happen to an Aprilia Mille, although a vee- twin superbike the water pump operates the same on a shaft driven from the engine. The usual cause is the bike has been left a reasonably long time ( stored) in its case/box whatever, the seal dries out and sticks to the shaft; hey presto the first time the engines turned over the seal gets damaged and leaks either coolant or oil or both. If the seal lets oil through then the tell tale should prevent it getting into the coolant and vice versa. You can bet that this is quite common, no manufacturer knows exactly how long a bike is going to sit unused. If the bike is on display in a showroom for a while this can sometimes attribute to the cause. A decent pre-delivery test and inspection by the selling dealer is what should really happen! When the dealer repaired my Aprilia Mille they managed to cure the oil leak, but on the return journey home I stopped halfway about 20 miles and discovered that the tell tale was now dripping coolant?so returned to dealer for more work☹️And a different mechanic to fix it.
Strip the clutch right down, thoroughly inspect all working surfaces such as plates, basket drum and hub. Remove any burrs, rough edges and check for high spots on the clutch plates. Measure each clutch pressure spring and compare. Test compression of each spring by either putting two facing each other in a vice and compressing by half and see if both measure same, check all the same way. Decide if you will be happy with deleting a couple of springs as this may cause unwanted slippage and even warping of the clutch plates. Replace the clutch cable as you seem to have been ok with a new one two years ago! Check the handlebar clutch lever pivot and pin for wear and replace if needed. Decide if another type and shape of lever might offer you more leverage and ensure everything is lubricated with oil and pivots are sealed with grease. Make sure the oil being used in the clutch is the best recommended. When reassembling the clutch get someone to rotate the clutch (cover off) and ensure it runs centrally and all the plates show no signs of out of alignment. Consider slipping some plastic tube/hose onto the clutch lever to cushion your finger, try to use two fingers if you are able. Hope this helps. I tend not to use the clutch once underway just bang up or down through the box, dog boxes are designed to take this method of operation, the clutch is just a convenient way of getting away from standstill; unless you’re Rossi using the clutch as a braking means!
Bike evolution is repeating itself ....I thought the reason people rode old twinshocks was that they thought that using the clutch with one finger and all the other modern techniques was for little girls [you will have to forgive me for this turbofurball ....boys will be boys, sorry].......completely confused ....they didn't even use to cover the front front brake lever in those days....just dump the clutch and use the throttle.
What’s wrong with using two fingers if you need to operate the clutch?
-not sure about that -please explain 
Argie bargey by Marquez
in Moto GP
Posted · Edited by section swept
Marquez, that cheeky chappy. He rides like he is ‘the’ most important person out on the track. Marquez must be taken down a peg or two and a three race ban should sort him out. That also might make Honda think a bit harder about employing a liability, imagine it Marquez barging round the track, that’s most of the satellite team hondas knocked out of the way and then there’s just that Pedrosa bloke to go......I Marquez your leathers with ma tyres when you get in my....in my way!!!! Post race interviews he will say we ad a gooood er race, I was lucky every body fall off but er my tyres were holding up, I just wanna thank my team for a good bulldozer...I mean a goood er set up.