at what time off the year does Beta brings information about the new models?
I would like to buy a new bike. Iff there would be a huge change for the
2019 models i would wait a few months.
Greathings,
Luc
This could be your ‘lucky day?’.....take all the stickers off? (and save a few pounds in weight) with the engine cases name ground off more weight saving? (cor I want swirls like that on my cases) remove the rim tapes and no one will know what you are riding?️♂️??....just like owning a development bike! Come 2020 if you keep it clean and tidy put the latest stickers on and hey presto...new bike???
Not if you want to have trials riding stay cheap and have easy parts availability new and secondhand. ....Judging by what Albert Cabestany can do on a Beta Evo I don't think that it needs changing just to stop people from being bored. Developing a completely new bike from the ground up and sorting the owners manual plus new parts numbering systems isn't cheap.....if it was your business and your bike was perfectly usable with everything set up in the background would you be seeking to start all over again because people get bored.
Austin Rover tried that and look what happened, well would you have bought a Marina when you could buy a Ford Cortina?
15 hours ago, oni nou said:
Your English is better than most English people can string together so no need for any apologies.
I blame the parents and the schools/Government of course 40+to a class then there are bound to be some that miss out on an edukajun!?????????
You must forgive me for bringing this subject up but I think it is a valid query, so I ask you all to bear with me.
A while ago I bought a copy of Steve Saunders' book 'A complete guide to motorcycle trials On trial, my life in motorcycle trials'.
For one reason and another I did not have a good look at it until quite recently.
On reading chapter 7 "how to ride' I had a feeling of de ja vu.
On delving further into the text a lot of the content seemed familiar and I got out my copy of the publication entitled "Ride it! the complete book of motorcycle trials by Don Smith".
I was surprised and puzzled to find that whole swaths of chapter 9 "Riding the hazards" had been reproduced verbatim in Steve's book.
I was expecting there to be an acknowledgement of the original author somewhere within the pages or in the "Finally, thank you' afterword at the end of Saunder's book but I could find no mention of the original author and, on further investigation I found that the publishers claim copyright for the Saunders book with no acknowledgement of Don Smith's material or the original publishers of the material.
I contacted Steve Saunders about my concerns and, apart from saying that he was going to contact his publishers and that he did not know anything about material being taken from Don Smith's book and that he had never set eyes on a copy, he dismissed my rather tongue in cheek enquiry about a refund if I returned the book as " I do not feel this to be appropriate" ( That was me told then, ) and I have heard nothing more from him.
I also contacted Don Smith's publishers and had an acknowledgement of my email and not much further.
I then contacted John Hulme and got a short note back saying he noted my comments and that he now considered communication closed on the subject! I emailed him back saying that wasnt going to work and asking him directly how it was that whole passages had been lifted from Don Smith's book to appear under his publishing company's copyright in Steve Saunder's book. Nothing heard!
Don Smiths book is out of copyright so they are probably clear on that score.
There remains the concern about an author and publisher claiming someone else's work as their own.
Before reading quote, please be aware there is probabably as many different oppionions on this as Bultaco owners. If you want oppionions on correct oil to use, search the Bultaco forum then make you own mind up. As for modern plates probabably the best way to go as they grip better and let you get away with less spring pressure and therfore less lever effort. I have never tried it so not in a good position to advise.
Quote 26th May 2005
I always run my clutches with one plate less than fitted originally (the last plate, the one just under the outer spring plate. Not sure if this makes a big difference but I tried it years ago and it seemed to improve things and have never fitted this last plate to a clutch since.
All the previous advice about cable condition and arm operating levers is the place to start as if these are not in good condition or set up correctly you are wasting your time. Also new springs are a good idea with these matched for length as best as possible.
I adjust the nuts so that the thread is protruding just beyond the nut and then pull in the clutch lever and hold in this position with a cable tie on the lever and handlebar. With the clutch held pulled in I then rotate the clutch via the kickstart and carfully adjust each spring adjuster until clutch plate wobble is either totally eliminated or at least reduced to the absolute minimum possible. The nuts should have about 1 to 1.5mm thread protruding. Don't forget to secure the nuts with some locking wire.
Finally I replace the primary case cover and fill with 300cc of ATQF. This is what I used back in the 70's when the bikes were new. You can not teach an old dog new tricks!
The older bikes do not have adjuster nuts but use a non adjustable pin and cup arrangement. My Model 80 (1971) with new springs and the one plate removed will slip the clutch with a sharp kick from the kickstater when cold but a smooth follow through kick will get her going and she never gives a problem when warmed up or actually slipping when riding.
Hi, in need of a little help, have sourced a 2nd hand ( new) 4rt front pipe ( without the cat) what do I do with the 02 sensor connection?
1 dealer told me just to disconnect and lose the wire and it would be ok ???
another knew what to do, but wouldn’t tell me, because I didn’t buy the pipe of them !..... great eh?.... they did tell me tank and air box needed to come off , but wouldn’t tell me anymore.....
help please..........cheers
It’s only the profit that makes things expensive, but that’s what keeps businesses going? It’s the same in most trades but some are helpful but others have manufacturers warranty and disclosure restraints imposed by their agreements. You’ll get all the help on this site though?
Oh for goodness sake just go and buy a PROPER Trials bike and that should put a stop to this comparison of an unsuitable bike the Reflex with a suitable bike the TLR. That Reflex you are looking at will probably be snapped up by one of the many commissioned buyers in the US it’ll come over to UK in a container and be advertised at three time the price it was for sale in the States...some sap will buy it and then spend £££’s trying to make into something it will never be...a Trials machine. Put another $500 to your $1000 and go for broke with an Ossa, Montesa or even a Bultaco.??
Wheel alignment although not crucial will to some extent have an effect on handling. Usually it’s the front forks that are out and this is a reason why some riders have a tough time in sections. Use a straight piece of square metal section tubing or round tubing as long as it’s straight, hold this against the rear wheel sprocket or wheel rim or tyre if seated properly in the rim. The tube needs to be long enough to reach the gearbox sprocket, so the object of the exercise is to get the drive chain as straight and in alignment so as to reduce any side friction on the sprockets. Once this is achieved you will (if the frames straight and been built properly) have the rear wheel straight in the frame. With two longer tubes held against the rear wheel facing forward to go each side of the front wheel by measuring the gap each side of the tube and front wheel you can establish alignment....or not. Wheels out of line usually mean the the bike will turn one way much better than in the opposite direction....that could be a five!??
ethanol fuel has closed off the pilot jet, that's a great deal for that bike. I would buy it and soak the carb in hondabrite for 24hrs and install new jets and enjoy a great running honda. after the carb is done use the hondabrite to wash the bike and find out how a proper bike wash does for removing dirt and grease. full strength hondabrite will strip varnish from inside the carb. with the 24 hour soak.
Probably take all the paint off too! Sonic cleaning of the carb will restore it back to unclogged condition, willunblock jets too! Oh the Reflex was the trail TRAIL orientated model with road geometry. The TLR was a proper Trials TRIALS iron.
Forget the bike! Get yourself down to A&E as quick as you can. Don’t queue - go right to the counter and tell them Section sent you! Why on earth would you have changed that plug , after all the reassurances? Next , it’ll be an “Is this detonation?” thread.
I only ever remove spark plugs from cold engines. Had a Relic 600cc Fiat 900t camper once. Took out a hot plug - and it never went back properly after that. You could even hear the swarf rattling in the combustion-chamber after screwing it back and starting up. The Helicoil business in the 80’s thrived on idiots with inherited colourtune kits and over-eager right-arms.
When you work in the service industry waiting around for plugs to cool down is a luxury that we don’t get. Fiat made there cylinder heads out of hard cheese so you would always wreck the threads, the twin cam engines both Fiat and Alfa Romeo not only used hard cheese but even angled the front and rear plugs differently to the no2 and3 plug holes. I’d the plug won’t go in with fingers or gloved to protect from heat to finger tight then somethings wrong....over eager right arms. With good right arms we threw the colourtunes as far as we could but that was in the late 60’s early 70s when those things that controlled the fuel ....oh what do you call them...oh yes carbs...were adjustable.
Sci-fi, there were no little end spacers supplied, when I queried this I was told that Bultaco used the con rod thrust washers to keep the con rod aligned and therefore no spacers/ shims need in the little end. That means that the little end can flop about sideways an alarming amount in my mind, that is why I asked InMotion for some spacers which did the trick. 0.5 mm is not a lot of free play 0.25 mm per side. Bearing in mind that there is very little sideways movement in my big end/ con rod I can see Bultaco point of view. But I’m happier knowing the end float is contained to acceptable limits. Little/small end clearance at 1 mm might not be enough when heat expansion has occurred. My major concern was that if the little end could slide about sideways t high revs it might decide to chase into the piston gudgeon pin bosses. InMotion were very helpful and a mine of information and very quick with supplying parts.
Sounds as though you have only just got this bike. After standing it is quite normal for some bikes of this kind for their clutches to stick....not releasing when you pull in the clutch lever. The trick is to pull in the clutch and select 1st or 2nd gear and then rock the bike back and forth to free the clutch plates. Some will not free until you’ve got heat into the engine and more importantly the clutch, then they usually free up. If I’m reading your post right you have stripped the clutch down because of a perceived fault when there wasn’t one...no disrespect to your mechanical skills but it does sound as others have stated that you’ve assembled the clutch incorrectly. Hope you sort it out??
Just pulling the plug out to discover it’s oily is not the right way to go about checking the running of the engine and plug state. Letting the engine run down to idle will inevitably produce slight oil deposits on the plug due to the throttle being almost closed. What you should try is a ‘plug chop’....this entails getting the engine up to normal temp, riding the bike reasonably hard for a few minutes...with more constant engine speed if possible (farm track or trail) say 4-5000rpm then pull in the clutch and kill the engine all in the same instant...coast to a halt. Remove spark plug and it will show you the condition it was in at the time of stopping the engine running. You should see a nice even biscuit (rich tea) colour around the edge and the centre electrode should be clean with the earth electrode showing a slightly lighter biscuit colour.
To all intents and purposes, from your description I wouldn’t worry and just get on and enjoy what sounds like a well set up engine, especially as it starts first kick! This is all a bit like reading a medical journey, before you were fit and healthy and now a few pages in you’ve got all the symptoms of some of the worst diseases known to man?????????☠️....??♂️???♀️
Think you’ll find that the TY 200 (not a cMajesty is it...that will be a world away from a standard TY) is a bit shorter than the Beamish so this will increase the feel of handiness with the TY. Not certain but I think some Beamish frames had shortened swinging arms. You could try slightly longer rear suspension units as the change in height at the rear will influence the steering making it slightly quicker. An alternative is to move the rear suspension mounts to give an increase in lift at the rear. If achievable, dropping the front forks in their yokes by 2-3 mm will also give a small improvement but at the cost of a little ground clearance being given up. Hope this is useful??
As I found with my M80 when rebuilding the crankshaft there are one or two differences that need to be watched for. In Motion sorted the parts for me but I ended up with a small end that needed spacers to my mind, but In Motion assured me that no spacers were needed. Bultaco relied on the minimal side play in the big end to keep the con rod aligned; however In Motion supplied me with a couple of spacers that did the job perfectly. Here are a few pictures to show differences in old and new bearings and con rod. The small end spacers used were stepped. Needles to say after sorting it all out I was very pleased with the finished result, even though you cannot see it.
Crankshaft main bearings you can either go with one each side and gain in less frictional losses or fit two main bearings on the drive side for added strength. The crankshaft oil seals again you can fit one each side, but most including me have two seals on each side and these are fitted back to back to prevent crankcase compression loss and to help prevent air being drawn in.
Be careful turning that engine back against its normal direction of rotation (dor) some cam chain tensioners will break if you do this, better to go round again in the normal dor.?k
Thieves broke into my garage in Almondsbury, North Bristol on the evening of Monday 11th June 2018 and stole my excellent condition and much loved 2004 Scorpa SY-250.
It has dark blue PVC tape on the frame down members and a dent on the rear section of the exhaust outlet. It was fitted with some Trials Control footrests made by Chris Wrigley and I also replaced the rear slotted brake disk with a solid one from a Montesa.
The frame number is: 400351 (*VVU6GY*)
Wish they all looked as nice as yours. Hope you get it back real soon.
You may find that with the crankshaft nut released and a bit of gentle wiggling and inertia persuasion that the flywheel may come lose. The best method though is to use the correct tool. I don’t know the thread size but I’m sure you can get a puller for about £10-15 which is a good investment.
You could try holding a thermometer against the cylinder head as this in theory will be the hottest part save for the exhaust port area. You can buy for about £14 a multi-meter with thermo probe attachment which is very useful. Alternatively you could temporarily remove fan connector and power the fan up or remove temp sensor connector and bridge both terminals in the wire connector, this should run fan. Before you do all of this make sure the fan is free to turn and not trapped by a dislodged cover etc.
The reed valves should be closed with no gaps that you can see daylight through. Initially remove reed valve and ensure it’s not bent or distorted. Refit carefully to the block. Have you made sure the throttle slide can move freely up and down? By the sound of the engine and the age I would be looking to change those crankcase oil seals anyway, lube the lips of the new ones with either 2T oil or silicon grease sparingly if you will, the seals allow crankcase compression to escape taking with it some of the fuel and air, on revving up and then shutting down the seals allow air to be sucked into the crankcase which lets the engine run too fast for too long back down to idle. While you’re in there you can check the main bearings for excess carbon which does get in and cause frictional losses and eventually failure. From the sound of the engine on the video it is ok ? mechanically, but it’s easy to make sweeping statements. By doing the work you will become more confident in the bike and know your way around so if it stops miles from anywhere you may have a chance of fixing it.?
Good for you. I was reunited with a 247 Cota which I bought new in the 70s after a gap in ownership of 34 years. Makes me feel as if I'm in my twenties again when I ride it.
The strange thing is that of 15 trials bikes I've owned, that is the only one I've ever seen again. Where do these bikes go? I guess by now almost all of the pre 65 stuff has been pulled out of barns to be sold at huge prices, but there must be hundreds of Bultos, Montesas and Ossas lying around somewhere. There aren't many in twinshock trials.
Torn apart and either flogged on that well known auction site on-line, or potentially literally ridden to death and junked. I tend to look at old barns in a new light, wondering what delights and hidden gems are waiting to be discovered. Years ago a friends older brother who had the bike bug and rode a BSA C15S also hankered after off-road stuff and built a BSA Bantam Trials bike. But he could also draw a bit and pinned to the workshop wall ( his Dad was a plumber) was a drawing depicting an old scrambles bike covered in cob webs and dust, written across the top was ‘barn find’. So even in the 60’s some of us were at it then!!!!
Think you’ll find that the factory used the welded on bolt route as standard, except the bolts were shouldered type so the shock or more correctly the damper eye bush sat on the shoulder....smooth section.
Beta 2019 models? When release?
in Beta
Posted
This could be your ‘lucky day?’.....take all the stickers off? (and save a few pounds in weight) with the engine cases name ground off more weight saving? (cor I want swirls like that on my cases) remove the rim tapes and no one will know what you are riding?️♂️??....just like owning a development bike! Come 2020 if you keep it clean and tidy put the latest stickers on and hey presto...new bike???