clarkp

I agree with neonsurge. It sounds like your clutch may not be completely dis-engaging in the first place. Any bubbles in the line can cause this problem - the fluid isn't compressable so displacement at the master cylinder piston equals displacement at the actuator. The bubbles are compressable so, if you have air in the system you don't get equal displacement at the actuator. Bleed the system from the actuator back up to the master cylinder if that's possible. I recently replaced the master cylinder plunger assembly in my 250 - BETA sells a complete kit for this. You may have slight seepage past the master cylinder seal... or just get a new bike.

Lewis - amend your personal profile to add your location so everyone can see where you are. Check with your importer to get manuals; your topic says '..Owners Manual' and the post says, '...workshop manual...', I think they are two different things and, either way, your importer should be able to get one in the post for you. Once you indicate your country, others on this forum can help you with which importer to contact.

Ron Jeremy, er... neonsurge... are you saying that you pull the clutch in, put it in gear, let the clutch out and it stalls? That sounds more like a 'buretor problem. If it sticks or drags an excessive amount, I think you need new steel plates. The little puckers / dimples on the steel plates get worn down quickly and I think they are what reduce / eliminate the "stiction" between the fiber and the steel plates. So when the oil is cold and all the parts have mated nicely (like you in those videos...) there is tremendous stiction between the plates. Once you get them "unstuck" by having dissimilar driveline / engine lash (riding around) everything's peachy - more oil flows between the plates and the clutch starts working normally. The other posts are also correct in that new oil has more "long-chain molecules" (read: more shear strength) and better resists being mashed out from between the plates by the force of the clutch springs. Bottom line: (again) try new steel plates.

You're right... its a lot of money, but now is the time to get those new steel plates too - don't cheap out and buy just the fiber plates. Get a full set of new plates - you'll be happy you did, and you won't have any problems with the clutch dragging instead of slipping.

Greg - what year and displacement is your bike? You asked if anyone had an idea about the cause; it looks like Mick, Charlie, and gazer have pretty much covered all the bases. If you're going to crack it open and have a look remember its very important to put everything back exactly as it comes out, unless you're replacing all the parts. I write on the clutch outer pressure plate with a Sharpie marker numbering the clutch spring holes and lay out the springs on a piece of paper or cardboard with corresponding numbers so all the springs go back in the same holes. Make sure you don't flip over any of the fiber or steel plates from their original orientation and keep them in order. That said, I would buy new springs, fiber plates, AND new steel plates...(but my bet is with Mick - your springs have gone wonky).

Stu - to my demented mind the problem may not be the carb so much as it could be the weird angle at which the carb mounts. I'm guessing that the carb mount angle was forced by the cylinder induction point, the exhaust center muffler, and the limited airbox space. It looks like once they had those three constraints in place the location and angle of the carburetor was essentially forced to be what it is. The VM26 is a bulletproof little carb and, if it was mounted with the float bowl in a more level attitude, my guess is that we would have very few carb issues. Good topic... just my 2 centavos...

Obviously, Wonder Boy is a better rider than we are... his bash plate hasn't been tweaked. I have to partially snug the front bolts and use a 6" C-clamp (as RonM stated) to draw the back end together. This process requires at least three beers and about 1 hour to complete. OBTW, the '06 rear fender looks gay.

You are definitely cursed... but not mechanically... Clearly, the gods want you to ride a Sherco.

Chances are not in your favor, I would say, without removing the side case. You also run the risk of not getting the new seal installed squarely in the case bore. Leave the clutch cover on, but remove the entire sidecase (loosen the screws - tap the case with a rubber mallet GENTLY, then remove the screws). This may save the main sidecase seal. Then use RTV silicone to re-install the sidecase. You may experience some oil leaking, but you can ride until you get a new sidecase gasket.

Paul... sorry about the knee-jerk response - my apologies. Have you tried fitting a larger diameter tube that has the end cut off at an angle similar to what is shown in the links? The larger diameter and the angle of the cut might stop the siphoning action (likewise, you might drill a small hole on the "more protected" side of the tube to break the siphon while protecting the end of the spigot from mud and washdowns. Again, sorry about the flame... Welcome to the group. Clark

... sigh ... do this... bookmark this... Not only mentioned before, but is a current "Topic Title" Please update your profile to show your location.

Gavin... this topic (and the solution) have been covered soooo many times in this forum it gives me tired-head. Search the BETA forum for 'dribbling carb', or float level, or whatever and you should find several discussions about this topic along with pictures about how to fashion an overflow solution and pictures about how to set the floats. Make sure to set your search timing to "ANY DATE" The link to the discussion about the overflow solution, with the pictures is here. The float level discussion is here. edit Andy... is there a way to make these two threads "sticky"?

orangebane - give a call to Ron Commo, the US importer, (802) 425-2081 He can help you with over-the-phone trouble-shooting AND supply you with the parts ASAP.

Stu - didn't they move the motor toward the back wheel about 1/2" in the last two model years? I don't remember if it was in '04, or '05, but they DID change the engine location slightly... don't know if that has any effect on the skid plate though...

Ron, yes that was me... section 11 on Sunday. You're right, I got really busy a couple of times there... I didn't want to screw up anyone's score AND I wasn't used to watching their time in the section either, so that was new for me. This is a shot of Geoff Aaron in my section...

Bob - be careful about the tab setting... the white line shows where BillyT recommends the downward travel limit of the floats to be, but you see where I have mine set to. Each bike is a little different so set yours and try it, but don't set it the night before a trial. I wasn't that smart and I had trouble with my carb flowing enough fuel to keep the float bowl full when riding from one section to the next, it was starving for fuel as I entered the next section, so I moved mine down a little further. The picture shows exactly where mine is currently. Remember, if the machine is leaking a lot of fuel, do the vent pipe mod, but don't neglect the normal maintenance of buying a new float needle and seat assembly. Yours may not be sealing properly and still flowing fuel even when the floats are trying to shut off fuel flow.

If you're around the garage and its reving its brains out, wad up an old t-shirt and stuff it into the end of the exhaust pipe. Buy and install a good two-wire kill switch, not one that grounds to the frame to kill the bike.

This link shows the angles of the tangs - just scroll down a bit to view the picture. neonsurge has also kindly pointed you to another part of the solution. coflet kills me, 'what kind of company...' - man, all the, 'mine is better than yours' crap gets old, or maybe I'm just getting old... I could post, 'Why would Sherco sell a bike with a known problem with main bearings...' Prove your perceived superiority in the sections, not on the forum.

If your clutch is dragging replace the fiber plates AND the steel plates at the same time. I wouldn't recommend using ATF; there have been reports that it causes the fiber plates to swell thereby contributing to the dragging problem over time. Just start fresh with all new plates and use a name brand motorcycle transmission fluid - check with your dealer or the local importer to get the right stuff.

Make time on your calendar, so you do not miss the first and second rounds of the national series in Muenster / Bulcher, TX weekend after next (April 9 / 10). Lodging in Muenster or Gainesville, TX http://www.ntxtrials.com/events/05_longhorn_nat.html See y'all there... -cp

Hammy - is it possible that you didn't get the woodruff key installed, or it slipped out when you re-installed the flywheel? If the flywheel is slipping on the crankshaft you'll have problems similar to what you've described. jjWhite - judging from the vast number of posts you've submitted, and from your thoughtful response to hamster's problem you would be much more helpful if you grab a women's underwear catalog and go get ahold of yourself - come back and contribute when / if you get a job, or when / if you can grow facial hair.

Come on Dixie... we know you're a closet tech geek, just like the rest of us... the first step is admitting you have a problem - so OUT with it, we're here to support you. Your last post gave you away, '... bailer twine...' - hell, even the spelling of 'bailer' instead of the correct 'baler' is a failed attempt to disguise your love for high-tech... not to mention the fact that hay balers haven't used 'twine' since they went to round bales. Come out of the tech closet and revel in your geekiness - you pocket-protector wearing, java script writing tech-head! Wave your freak flag high! Now where the hell is 'cider country' anyway?

Some defense contractors now have the ability to "print", as neonsurge says, near-net parts using a robotic-controlled arm to spray molten titanium to "build up" the piece. All that's left is some finish machining to achieve tolerances on mating faces and the like. The idea being the ability to make some parts on an aircraft carrier without a full-blown machine shop and without having to stock lots of spares.

Dave - did you create the cover as a solid model in a CAD system and then output a stereo lithography part? What solid modeler are you using? What's next? Create an investment casting and CNC the net part? Details man! DETAILS!

Welcome back, Mick! Gotta dance with the one that brung ya... I be interested in reading your opinion of how the three machines compare, strengths, etc. If you're so inclined...