clarkp

Stu, contact Ron Commo at usbeta.com. I bought one from him over the phone... it was mailed quickly. Definitely a dependable way to get a manual. Go to the web site and email Ron for information. Good luck!

The fact that its a 250 versus a 270 makes little difference IMO. If it is in good shape I think pricing between $2,000 and $2,500 is about right... I would angle toward the lower price just because the machine is old. However, if you just love it and its in cherry shape... A word of advice... buy the newest machine you can afford.

Gerard - set your "Search where" to Bike Specific - BETA, set your "Search posts from..." to Any date" and search for key word: dribbling For some reason, all the discussions used the word "dribbling" instead of fuel leaking, or leaking fuel. Should get you about 5 hits. Good luck.

Sch-tewart - do a search in the BETA forum for 'pinging' At the top of the Trials Central page, hit Search On the Search page, enter pinging as the keyword Set the Search Where to Bike Specific ..BETA Set the Search Posts From to Any Date You'll hit nine good threads on the topic. So, to answer your question, yes. -cp

The 'slow to return to idle' symptom has me thinking like colly on this one - maybe the air screw needs some attention - check the second post on this link: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2182 My air screw is about 1.25 turns out - that is, gently turn it in until it lightly seats and back it out 1.25 turns. But really, follow the setting suggestions on the link - second post.

rev3LEE250 - one of the best things you can do is just log time on it to get used to how it handles and how it makes its power. Other than that, all the suggestions from your friends here on the BETA forum are great - these guys know what they're talking about! My only additional suggestion is, given the age of the machine, a fresh set of Michelins will do wonders - from a price / performance standpoint its some of the best money spent. DO NOT ignore your front tire. Lots of guys buy the back without a thought for the front tire. The Michelins (well, all high TPI casing tires w/ soft compound) suffer from sidewall stiffening after a while. Change the front every couple of years or so. As a courtesy to the forum members, change your personal settings to show us where you're located. Cheers!

Merry Christmas everybody!

Duckwizard - how are you and machine getting on? Fill us in, don't leave us with a lick and a promise...

Wiz - what pilot jet and main jet are you running? The pilot circuit seems to have a fairly dramatic affect on these machines. I've experimented with pilot jetting on my 250 and I vary from a 27.5 to a 32.5 sometimes using a #30 (running 27.5 right now) and I run a 145 main jet. I use either an NGK BP5ES down to a BP7ES (current plug) or a Champion N7YC (manual calls for this plug but with the 'copper core' designation of N7YCC). I'm running TORCO racing oil with a 50 / 50 mix of 108 octane race gas and 93 octane pumg gas. The oil is mixed at 80:1.

I don't think the 270 will work you over any more or less than the 250. In some sections the 250 will be a better weapon and in others the 270 will fit the bill perfectly. However, you'll have a more complete arsenal with the 270. 20cc isn't going to make that much of an additional physical demand on you. I think once you've ridden it on about three outings you won't remember what your old mount was like - that is to say, you will get used to the new machine and adjust your style for it just like you did when you got the machine you have now.

Don't know if the Techno and the REV are similar, but on the REV3 (while standing on the ground looking at the fuel petcock from the right side of the machine): Arrow pointing to the back tire: OFF Arrow pointing to the sky: Main fuel supply Arrow pointing to the front tire: Reserve

Rob wrote, "The 270's sure do have a nice bark" That's no kidding... at a club trial this past weekend a dealer had an '05 270 in the paddock. He fired it up while it was parked in between two cargo trailers where I couldn't see it - I thought someone was firing an automatic rifle! Scared the #@$%& out of me for a sec... POP, pop, POP POP POP! you get the idea, very loud, very powerful sounding. I test rode it a while later, VERY smooth down low, super plush boingers front and back. What did surprise me is that it turns BETTER than my '03 250! This new machine is a must-have in my book.

Mark, what applies to you doesn't necessarily apply to me..., now stop lurking over here and go back to the Sherco forum...

The US importer claims that the SureFlex clutch will behave worse than the stock plates - I haven't tried the SureFlex in my BETA, however, I did try them in my Montesa and I didn't notice much difference. IMO, the most important thing you can do is buy the metal plates at the same time you buy the fiber plates, they're not too expensive and seem to be the key to proper clutch action. I just changed out my whole clutch pack and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 for the gearbox. I can start it cold and snick it right into gear without milking the clutch lever. I will never again change only the fiber plates; SureFlex or factory parts.

I don't see why routing the vent pipe the other way (and making it longer) would be any different / better / worse. It would probably look cleaner than my installation - I like your idea; may change mine. I don't mean to speak for BillyT, but I think leaving the spigots bare would subject them to water intrusion or other forms of contamination. Should have no effect on engine performance at all. I wouldn't do it on my bike... too many creek crossings, mud, etc.

Pardon? Not really sure where you're coming from there scorpaboy... Let's see... 1.) You've had a Beta in the past and appreciate what the guys on this forum are doing to help each other in their appreciation of world-class Italian trials machinery? You like it that the Beta owners on this forum can actually help each other by documenting tweaks that are easy to do, easy to follow, and actually yield a benefit? Is that it? 2.) You're new to Trials Central and can't contain your zeal for all things trials, so you gush helpful information on topics about which you have no real knowledge in lots of different forums? 3.) You're a pre-teen that still gets a rush from all that mindless, 'mine-is-better-than yours' BS? Sorry if I've misconstrued your concise and thoughtfully-considered post and all apologies if I've missed your heartfelt meaning. I think your informative posts would find an appreciative audience here. On a lighter note... go to http://www.stupidvideos.com click on the 'Most Watched' tab and watch number 10.

Completed installation - I threaded the vent hose around the fuel line to keep it away from my fuel petcock.

Installed on the carb - you can offset to either side.

Use fuel line and a small plastic or brass 'tee' to build something like this. Make sure to cut off the bottom of the middle hose at a steep angle. Hose lengths are approximate.

Step 1: remove stock clear plastic hoses

You can get a new one for $5,190. The nice part is that it comes with a brand new 2004 REV3 attached to it.

Call Ron at BETA USA (C & G BETA - the US Importer for BETA) to order your parts. They ship the parts the same day you order and they always have parts in stock; good advice too if you have a question about your BETA. 802-425-2081

Craig - yes the loop of tubing connects to the same locations your clear tubing is now. Just pull off the clear and connect those two ports with a loop (with the new venting "T" mod - pictures soon...).

Excellent idea, Billy... I'll make the mods and post the pics for everyone's benefit. Thanks for the update!

Billy, thanks for clarifying that the looped tube shouldn't go under the carb, but over the top - good point! I feel like clarifying a point of my own, however. My bike was running great, 32.5 pilot jet, 145 main... everything was spot on... except for the fuel drool. So, I connected the two vent pipes with a loop of tubing (yes, over the top of the carb...). With that being the only thing changed, my Rev3 250 became VERY reluctant to start. So, I vented the loop by cutting a "V" shaped section out of the top of the loop. Once again, my bikes starts on the second kick every time. Given the scenario, my only conclusion is that the venting of the tube must have made a difference. I guess every owner willing to try the 'loop-of-tubing' fix should, at least, know of my experience. Try it for yourself, if it starts reliably without the vented tube loop, great. If it becomes hard to start, try the vent procedure.