CptStarck

Part of the improvement can also be to ride more on the legs. We tend to use our arms and grip strength too much. Theorethically while riding a section, 80 to 90% of the time if you would apply a 'screenfreeze' you should be positionned and balanced in such way that you could virtually take your hands of the handlebar.

This method really helped me to get the timing and feel the movement : Push hard on the legs, release clutch and jump just before impacting the obstacle, let the bars come up... Practice, film, repeat

I switched to Boyesen Dual Stage on my Beta Evo 250 2010. Engine seems to be smoother from low to mid revs. Difficult to judge if it is really better. Changed the Pilot jet from 48 to 50, idle seems stronger and more stall resistant now. Needle was at 6th position (almost all the way up) I'm going to try to lower the needle 1 or 2 positions to get a snapier of idle blip.

Indeed normally you should bleed manually to start, and the mastercilinder should bleed itself while using. However, you should check you have no residual tension in the clutch lever, this could push in the master piston in just enough to prevent correct exit of air. So set enough freeplay on the lever while bleeding. On my Beta 250 2010 there was a default on the clutch mastercilinder, which made it impossible too bleed correctly. Fluid was unable to flow back when pressure was released, so impossible to bleed, even when pushing with a siringue. And pressure buidling up in the clutchline with hot engine, resulting in clutch slipping. Had to change the mastercilinder.