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Tillerman6

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Everything posted by Tillerman6
 
 
  1. So today I had the left side cover off and wondered if the points needed any attention- It had been a couple of months since I attempted to set them up, and I re-read the instructions in my 75 shop manual again just to refresh my memory. But laying on the garage floor trying to peek into a small hole in the flywheel is not much fun, nor is trying to guess at the timing. Probably the worst part is that the slot in the points plate is wider than the securing screw by about 1mm. This allows the breaker plate to move in both a left-right direction and also up and down which ruins any repeatability of the settings. Reason for this is that the wiper on the points arm is very sensitive to changes in it's position relative to the cam. So while you are trying to move the points left-or right to adjust the timing as it relates to the flywheel position, you will almost certainly move the slot in the plate up or down ever so slightly relative to the clamping screw. I think just tightening the screw can also move the points plate assembly a few tenths of a millimeter which is more than enough to change the timing and the maximum opening measurement of the points. So does anyone know if there is supposed to be a special washer or bushing around the clamping screw? With my present setup, there is no way to limit the Z axis motion of the points plate if an adjustment is needed (and it will be). I was lucky enough to find a spot where the engine would start and run (albeit with more backfiring than I would like) but without removing the gas tank, the head, the flywheel and the tiny woodruff key, and fitting special parts, I am not looking forward to the next time when the points need attention. Note- I do not know if my points assembly is OEM or something off a lawn mower. Your points may be relatively easy to adjust with no fuss at all, but without a visual picture and some measurements it may not be possible to tell If my bike has the "right stuff". After my fiddling with the points position this time I noticed an improvement in the throttle response and maybe a little more power, but this is just a guess and I am considering upgrading to an electronic ignition from B & J racing for lack of a better solution. Any help or responses are much appreciated as always!
  2. Tony 27- I was hoping for a simple install, but sounds like that is not to be. And I do need a new rubber boot for the air box. The old one is pretty stiff. Somehow it also seems to be shorter than it really should be for proper fit. But I did order the 26 mm OKO carb so as not to create a fitment problem. But from what you are saying- the new 26mm OKO is different on the air box end? Do you think just the standard hose for the TY 250 A model from Claus Studios will fit the OKO properly? And thanks again for the help!
  3. Just ordered a new 26mm OKO from mid-atlantic. Fingers crossed it fits and works fine. The Mikuni carbs don't seem to work too well on a TY and you can't get parts for the TK that was on the bike originally.
  4. Guy 53, From your post, it sounds like the OKO is easier to get running properly. If you have any more information on them, please send me a link.
  5. I guess I would have to agree, but what is any better? Please spell it out cause we wanna know! I have had NGK's fail on me at the worst times- like just before a ride and they look perfectly fine- maybe a little chocolate brown but if they get wet - flooded carb or whatever it's hard to get them firing reliably again. By the way, NGK is phasing out the non- resistor B7ES and going to a B7 RES which I am running now- I really can't tell any difference with the performance and the price is still cheap enough. I pulled the new B7 RES out to look at it and it was growing a metal "whisker" off the grounded tab that sits over the center firing pin, however, the whisker was not pointing towards the center pin at all- very strange. BTW I'm running Amsoil 2 stroke "Saber" oil- full synthetic at 50:1
  6. guy53, That's good info to know. I would probably have gone for one of the new flat slide Mikuni carbs rather than the old round slide VM type anyway, but there must be some differences with the skirt on the slide itself that make the VM 26 not work as it should in the TY 250. My other complaint with the TK is that if you can't get the bike started in about a minute or two it tends to flood. So it probably needs a rebuild kit which is impossible to find??? So you're running an OKO? how do you like it? Are you running the stock reeds or something else? I mostly ride fire roads and single track trails and the 13/53 gearing if that makes any difference.
  7. So another general question- #2 I have OKO 26mm on my TY 250 A and still trying to get the best operation out of it. It starts on about the 5th kick when cold, but when hot you need to open the throttle to maybe 1/3rd to get it to catch. There is no longer any kick back - but that is mostly due to the new Rex's ignition. But my concern now is that if you are just running on flat ground, the engine will fire every other revolution. This is annoying because of the vibration that is set up while this is going on. If you advance the throttle, the engine fires every stroke and smooths out, or uphill- same thing sounds solid and smooth- , but you only get that operation while you are accelerating, or going uphill or running fast in 5th gear so that the wind resistance puts a load on the engine. If you are just idling along - 10 -25 mph,(which is most of the level part of the trail riding I do, there is that "4 stroking" sound which I can't understand. There is also the usual popcorn sound mixed with this if decelerating, which I think is normal for any 2 stroke. If you let off the throttle in neutral, the engine returns to idle without hesitation- very little extra firing. The air filter has just been cleaned and oiled, - the stinger in the exhaust has new material, new plug, Premium gas and 50:1 premix. I don't know if Trials central can accept videos with sound- maybe that would be the best way for everyone to see and hear what is going on? This 4 stroking scenario existed prior to the new ignition being installed, so I'm thinking it's the OKO carb. I went from the 2nd notch on the needle to the first notch plus the spacer - no difference. The idle air bleed is at 1 1/2 turns out and there is a normal idle speed observed. Any ideas are much appreciated!
  8. For sure cell phone and a battery backup charger.
  9. That's what (in the USA) they call a master link. But I'm glad I asked. Thanks! Turbofurball- That could mean several different things. My standard equipment on the bike is a chain with a split link, so that's a given. But what - in addition to that would you carry for a trip that is too far to walk back without your bike? Just another split link, or another chain plus another split link?
  10. Feet up fun I don’t think changing the front sprocket size is going to bring 3rd 4th and 5th any “closer together” it will drop the overall ratio or raise it, but it does nothing to the internal ratios inside the gearbox
  11. 4 psi in the rear tire for trail riding? Don’t you get a lot of flats from the tire chafing the tube?
  12. And where did you find a 55 tooth rear wheel sprocket?
  13. Feet up fun Well now I do have a proper trials tire mounted on the rear wheel it is larger in diameter by maybe 2 inches much softer rubber too. But while I had the wheel off I noticed the wheel bearings were rough, so I am waiting on new ones to arrive
  14. If you have an electric grinder available then you can use the chain breaker tool. But on the trail it is of no use. Correct?
  15. So the mini chain breaker tool is useless on the trail. No way to push out a pin that is not ground off on one side first.
  16. Sorry for the dumb questions but what is a “split link”?
  17. So have you ever had that problem on the trail? Seems like you would need several items besides the chain breaker tool?
  18. Just my 2 cents- you might be able to grab one corner or a piece of the coating with a pair of surgical forceps. If you can get just a chunk of it out, then you can use that chunk to test various chemicals on. Paint remover or MEK might dissolve it well enough that it will at least soften up and you can drag the pieces out with the forceps. Once that is gone, you can probably get most of the old rust out by putting in about a pound of sheet metal screws or short drywall screws and then shaking and rolling the tank carefully. Home Depot has MEK and paint remover- wear a face sheild with this stuff and don't get any on that nice paint on the outside! P.S. loosen up those tiedown straps on the trailer- you don't want to smoosh the fork or shock springs permanently.
  19. What do you guys think? Ever needed one on the trail? What kind of a problem did you have with the chain to begin with? I can't see even owning one for the shop much less taking it on the trail. Opinions/ experiences - please explain in detail.
  20. Guy, So I'm realizing that the TY can be used for trail riding as well as trials. Are you doing either one or both? If you are trail riding, do you ever need first gear? 12/55 is even lower than my 12/53. Feetup fun says to try (for trail riding) start off in 3rd gear and use the wide power band to best advantage. He says 13/53 is more suited to trail riding. I would have to agree for 90% of all the trails around my location- although I do have some that are so steep that there is no chance that going slow is going to work no matter how low the gear ratio is. Then it's momentum and skill.
  21. Guys- This is not really specific to the TY 250, but hopefully nobody will kick me off of here for asking a non- trials question? I started exploring the riding areas around here and realized very soon that I had no safety gear that would help anything if I (fill in the blank!) I went riding and the area was remote and getting remoter as each mile went by. But the road was just a bit boring for me and I took off on a path maybe 4 ft wide. It went on for miles and was slowly climbing the side of a 5000 foot mountain, so it got rockier and steeper as it progressed. I had gone thru several open gates and there was no one on this trail except yours truly. This went on for maybe an hour. The view was getting better and the forest service had added some rock garden stuff across the path that was loose and maybe 3-4 inches across each rock. Now that's interesting stuff on a steep'ish climb when the right shoulder drops away maybe 300 feet. So I took a line that would not risk going over the edge, but that ended up with me in the rocks. The bike died and would not start any time soon. (flooded) So my options were few at that point- no tools of any kind! No damage to me or the bike, but now I'm at least 20 miles from my truck and part of it is uphill. Luckily I had a fairly straight downhill path on which to try a bump start. I wasn't sure it would work because of my 12/53 gearing but I finally managed to get it into 3rd and it came back to life like nothing had happened! But since then I have been gathering things that I think would actually be worth having in the "outback" of North Idaho. Here is a list so far: 2 liter hydration backpack/storage (smallish rucksack with 6 zipper compartments) In this I carry the water pouch and drink tube, food and first aid stuff. A lighter, tire gauge, a 6 in one screwdriver, 5mm Allen wrench, spare spark plug and socket, two 10mm open/box end spanners, a tiny 1/4" rachet, 10.12, 13 and 14mm sockets, safety wire, a length of parachute cord and soon a 25 foot tow strap. A cell phone charger and the cell phone. The charger has a flash light mode and is also solar capable and even has a small compass and is "waterproof- shock resistant. I am still hung up on the idea of carrying tools for a flat tire. I was changing tires today in my garage and it was the rear tire. I don't think it would be possible to do on the trail. The tire is too stiff and it took way more tools to get it off the rim than anyone could carry on their bike, - that being said- it was a full tire swap and not just fixing a flat. The tire was a knobby and had been on there for umpteen years, so there was that to consider. The other negative side of a trail side flat fix is all the weight of the stuff you need to carry- At least a front inner tube- 3 pounds ? a tire pump- half a pound- tire irons- a pound at least. maybe a tire patch kit- 1/4 pound. And that's not really enough. So that brings up the idea of a front fender mounted tool bag. That gets about 4- 7 pounds out of your backpack and I think that's probably worth thinking about. I have not found one I like yet, but I'm not giving up on it just yet. Comments or suggestions are always welcome! I know the first thing you guys are gonna say - so no- I don't have a riding buddy yet. I have friends that are way more experienced and faster than me, plus they wear all the pads and battle gear which I don't have yet. So far I managed to spend 300 on boots and shin guards. I have an open face helmet but I can't find a wrap around that I like.
  22. I will try second and up- but don't you need to get back to neutral when you stop? Are you Idling in neutral or just kill the bike and re- start? Barkbusters- If I do get any I might just get the "flag" type as I have heard some motocrossers have broken their arms on the enclosed bracketry in a crash situation when they go over the handlebars because the arms get caught under the brackets and they still go over the bars with the rest of their body! Now that would hurt! 13-53 and start off in 3rd? ok I'll give it a shot! My riding expertise can't suffer from trying something new. Lever tips being caught on vegetation! Why didn't I think of that? my brake lever is curled around enough to do that! Maybe a tip for the group! the newer bikes all use a "dog leg" type lever that is easier to grab and makes the lever sit closer to the handlebars- but until last week I could never find a cross over part number from anything else that would fit a TY 250 A for sure- but I decided to go support my local Yamaha dealer and let him try and find something that will upgrade my levers to a more modern style- so he did! So here are the part numbers ! They are levers off of a 2007- 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 4 wheeler but we won't tell anybody! Clutch side is 2HT-83912-01, brake side is 5KM-83922-00-00. I am running the clutch side only right now and have not ordered the brake side as yet, but I plan on doing it soon- my brake side is bent almost double. Thanks for all the help! I'm starting to get the hang of it again- the bike is so much different than my old 250 Husky and 360 CZ motocrosser- nearly killed myself on the CZ but what a machine!
  23. Well, I agree 100%. But what you are seeing is not original equipment. The forks are off of some other model of bike, so is the front hub and brake plate- notice that there is no tie rod to the brake plate and the fender mounting is all my own doing. Those fork tubes are about 2 inches longer than stock if my guessing is correct- could be off of an IT 250 or equivalent. I slid them up in the clamps to get something like a normal steering geometry. IF I put them all the way down in the clamps the bike would not want to turn very well- that's my guess. Anyway it is what it is for now. I know of another ty in my neighborhood that may come up for sale- i't has a trials seat pan and stock front end. the compression is no good. It- barely fires at all then dies, But it's almost 100% complete. I don't know what it is worth- the fork seals look ok- not leaking and the rear shocks are stock. I might offer the guy 300 for it if I can find him again. Chance meeting the first time. On my bike the rear shocks are Falcon. I have them set to the softest position but they are still very stiff for my mostly sitting down riding in the woods style. Can't find any softer springs for these and the front forks need to be put back to original configuration but I don't have a diagram or parts list for them - I think they are IYT or something like that??? If anybody knows - please speak up! The- photo is not the greatest but the peg position is normal for trail riding- I think. I got two triangular plates with the bike and they allow the pegs to be moved down and back about 2 inches- I m assuming that that is the trials bike position. Yes the rear tire is or looks too small. I have a rear trials tire that I bought for the trials work I thought I was going to try, but haven't put it on the bike yet- maybe today! It's a bit taller. By the way- do you own or ride a TY?
 
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