trialshop.it is an excellent resource! Their website is the first time I have seen an exploded view of the OSSA gearbox. I must retract that statement. Upon closer inspection, it is for a TRS.
Excellence work and many thanks for the write-up! That bike looks clean, I am surprised the motor is in such bad condition. 300 hours is getting up there. I have one bike with 500+.
Just so we are on the same page, I grabbed some images from the 2018 4RT manual. Here is what I think is going on:
1. Oil comes from the pressure pump and surrounds the outside of the oil filter.
2. Oil travels through the filter media and exits via the center of the filter.
3. Oil exits the filter cover and enters the generator cover.
4. Adjacent to the oil entrance in the generator cover is the PRV (excess oil pressure is vented to inside of the generator cover, eventually finding its way back to the sump.)
5. Oil travels through a passage cast/drilled into the generator cover towards the crankshaft big end.
6. Now I'm guessing... Some of the oil passes through the crankshaft and continues on to lube the piston and top end. (Or there's a different passage in the generator cover that directs oil on to those other locations.)
In all engines, oil flows towards the big-end bearing. When it escapes the big-end bearing, it returns to the sump.
P.S. From my research, oil filters almost always flow from the outside to the inside.
P.P.S. It seems that canister-type filters are the ones that have an internal bypass valve. So I'm guessing you won't find a bypass valve inside the 4RT's paper cartridge.
I am fascinated by these sorts of problems. But I'll start by saying the only motorcycle oiling system I've studied in any detail was for a dry-sump Aprilia vee-twin which was more complicated. So the following is conjecture.
The block flow diagram below is for a 1977 Kawasaki KZ650. It represents my understating of the pressure relieve valve's place in the system. Its purpose is to prevent oil pressure from exceeding a preset limit.
The bypass valve opens when the oil filter is clogged or when the oil is too thick (e.g. cold weather startup). The bypass valve can be external to the oil filter or internal. I would expect the 4RT to get 100% filtered oil under normal operating conditions.
I suggest opening an old oil filter to have a look inside. If an internal bypass is present, there should be a spring and some type of valve.
But if the bypass valve is external, and stuck open, I could see where your engine could still be running okay yet have no oil in its filter.
1. 260 miles before the first oil/filter change is a long time. Reviewing my old 4RT manual says the break-in period is 20 minutes. After which it implies the oil and filter should be changed. (Personally, I'll probably go more like an hour lacking any other guidance.)
2. Seems to me it was possible to install the oil filter backwards in that engine (and thus blocking all flow).
3. What transpired between the time the dealer said there was oil in the filter and you subsequently observing there was none?
4. Small 4T motorcycle engines sometime have no oil filter, so it's not the end of the world, but far from ideal.
5. The engine would have seized long ago with zero oil flowing.
6. I assume the oil looks used and oxidized, rather than like new (which would indicate it had not flowed anywhere).
7. I also assume that if you remove the tappet covers you will see oil.
8. If you are concerned about engine damage, you should submit a sample of the drain oil for analysis. In the US, I've used Blackstone Labs: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests/standard-analysis/ They can determine the presence of wear metals in the oil. I'm sure there are similar labs in the UK.
Now I understand my confusion. Apparently, Gael rode both a 2024 Comp and a 2025 FACTOR-E at Montpellier. Trial-club.com posted a video on FB. Here's a screenshot from the video.
What photos are you using for reference? Honda service manual are second to none. I still have a PDF manual for a 2107 260. It shows routing behind the bars. Maybe the 300 is different. It's worth investing in the manual.
P.S. It's great to see women involved in this sport. If it weren't for my wife, I probably would not be riding trials.
Your repair options are limited, so craftsmanship in the repair will count.
Can you pick at the epoxy or plastic around the broken wire with sharp pick or blade? If so try to make a pocket around the repair area.
Get a piece of tin coated copper buss wire (or cut the lead off a resistor or cap) at an angle to make a sharp point,
Jab this solid copper wire into the center of the broken wire strands using needle nose pliers for a firm straight push.
With a clean (wipe on wet paper or sponge) soldering iron wet the tip with solder and apply to the joint. Add a tiny amount of solder as needed, you just want to anchor your work.
Do this very quickly so as to avoid heat damage down the wire into the CDI.
Slide a 1" long piece of heat shrink tubing way up onto your kill wire.
With about a 1/4" of new stub exposed, apply your kill wire over the stub, and again quickly solder the butt-splice, trying to avoid melting the base joint you just prepared.
Now slide the heat shrink tubing down over the repair and shrink it as you push the tube against the base.
Using the pocket you dug, apply non-conductive epoxy around your repair creating a nice fillet for support.
Try to fasten down the kill wire, with a slight bend for some flexibility, near the repair.
Should be good to go (and stop!).
This is an excellent first post! I sincerely hope you are not ChatGPT!
Completely new chassis in geometries and reinforcements
TECH TJ2 two-way shock absorber
S3 Parts Handlebar
DID chain step 520
S3 Parts Grips
New aesthetics and FACTOR-E bodywork
Homologation as a 125cc motorcycle
Weight in running order: 73 Kg
Completely new engine. More power, more inertia, more revolutions (17,000!)
Four speed gearbox
New mechanical clutch with Kevlar discs
Controller with new settings
Completely new 1.8 kWh battery in interior and structure
Renewed transmission system
1,400Nm motor torque (in first gear)
Range of 59 kilometers
Peak power 19kW
Prototype electric trials bike with a 4-speed gearbox
59 km range (would seem to be when using the larger battery)
1.8 kWh or 2.5 kWh battery
Peak power of 19 kW
Provides tuneability via EM Connect app
Clutch is accessible like a normal motorcycle.
Claimed to have dropped the weight by 4 kg too.
Production to commence "next month" so, February 2024.
Mr. Google translated for me, "On the occasion of the magnificent evening that was organized for us in the premises of its brand new and immense new factory, the Héraultaise company presented us with its brand new motorcycle, the FACTOR E, which represents an incredible evolution in the field of trial motorcycles, electric. We listened to the words of Gael Chatagno who told us of this bike that it was at the level of the 300 Thermal and it is on its handlebars that he will participate in the entire Trial 2 World Championship and the French Elite Championship. The powertrain is much more powerful and now has a 4-speed gearbox. The weight distribution is different which makes the bike more playful and more stable. The battery (2.5) has 30% more autonomy, which gives it a range of 60 kilometers. The swingarm is new, the shock absorber is what is best at Tech., same for the Fork The FACTOR E goes into production next month, so you think how we can't wait to try it ."
I don't believe 600 Nm at the rear wheel and a top speed of 62 mph with a single-speed gearbox.
The EM's motor is rated about 45 Nm. Couple that with a 14.39:1 total gear reduction and you get about 650 Nm at the rear wheel. (The SiliXcon controller may be limiting peak torque to EM's specified 600 Nm.)
With a 14.39:1 gear reduction, the EM's motor must spin in excess of 8000 rpm to go 42 mph.
The E-AT 600 would need more than a single speed to have both 600 Nm and 62 mph at any sort of reasonable motor rpm. And there was no mention of multiple gears in their specs.
Looks like I can post again. My prior post was in limbo awaiting moderation - perhaps because it contained a Facebook link? That link showed a water pump on the old GG design where there now appears to be an encoder.
My impression about the original Plettenberg design was that it used an "observer algorithm" in the controller. This is better than Hall sensors, but computationally intensive. An encoder is more expensive, but better for an application like motorsports.
This looks very similar to the German conversion kit that used the old GG bottom end.
Yes, but pause the video at about 15 seconds. You can see a bulge on the motor casing that I'm thinking is a rotary encoder.I don't recall that on the German conversion.
The thing I find most encouraging is the presence of a gear lever. I think electric trials bikes can really benefit from having more than a single gear.
Yes it is. But because I would have to design something from scratch anyway, I would look into using a much lower power input and a longer charging time.
Slight misunderstanding here. The standard EM ePure charger is rated at 15 amps on the DC side. When sourcing 58 volts into the battery at 15 amps max, the charger draws under 1000 watts from the AC side (even considering that it is only about 92% efficient).
Ideally, I would like to recharge the battery directly from solar panels. Although this would be the most efficient method it does require some engineering to develop.
It could be a wide variety of things. Your local mechanic will be in a much better position to diagnose and repair the problem than suggestions from any message board.
In the spirit of trying to be helpful I will suggest:
1. Spark, but at the at the wrong time implies a sheared flywheel key.
2. Choke (enrichener) faulty or not being engaged.
3. Fuel tap not actually turned on (or blocked). The lever is typically parallel to the direction of flow.
4. It could also be something much more difficult to diagnose, like an intermittent ignition system.
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2012 Explorer 280i Rebuild
in OSSA
Posted · Edited by konrad
trialshop.it is an excellent resource!
Their website is the first time I have seen an exploded view of the OSSA gearbox.I must retract that statement. Upon closer inspection, it is for a TRS.