copemech

It is expected to go down a little!

The price is currently 4000 million!

Wish I had known,I would have offered Stoodley 500 for his winning ticket last weekend!

Well, as a report after riding three trials the Keihin definatally seems to work better, although it has not improved my ability to ride. A major side benefit that I noticed was a major increase in power on the loop when running in 4th gear when at those speeds when 4th is normally too high and 3rd is too low of a gear. All Sherco riders know the feeling sort of 123,,,4,,5 on the gearing. Now it pulls like a freight train in 4th even at very low revs and feels like that gear you were missing was never really lost! It obviously flows better in this range. Very smooth and controlable! A bit of a ping in the 1/8 to 1/4 throttle range is an indication that I probably need to raise the needle a notch or so from center. Cheers to all,

OK Bill, Bad Visual Ahead! I have found the perfect codpiece for the helmet washing activity, a Sherco air filter! You can clean them both at the same time! Depending upon how you feel you can point it up or down!

I would have added those as well but I started stuttering as I typed

Ron, Who won the raffle?

The PXC has a different background behind the red and also a didifferent color blue and if your name is Paxau you can do whatever you like, screw Honda. And if you cannot tell the difference between HRC and PXC on a Sherco get your eyes checked. Since when did Honda get to have an exclusive on the red, white and blue of the American flag?

JTT, The hose was pinched closed by being so close to the muffler. A "L"shaped nipple would be required to make it work properly.

Ok Gizza, let me demonstratr how it is done. Along with the speedos, you must have the proper codpiece and be wearing your best Garne boots as well before taking the plunge. Get the picture!

Forgot to add: There was also a unused nipple on the front(manifold) side of the carb throat that had to be blocked(a manifold vacume port i suppose) with the use of a short section of the bowl overflow hose and a short screw inserted as a a block. Nigel is working on sourcing the intake hoses for you blokes in the UK as I gave him the info and you will have to purchase them from him. On my bike, I found it to be a perfect fit, 45mm id x50mm length, and due to the extremely tight fit of the reinforced hose on the carb it would NOT come off once installed, negating the need for a larger band clamp as the stocker is too small on the carb end. With airbox in place,the unit is sealed very well and cannot move. I considered installing a Zippie on it but it is not really neccessary(weight savings you know!) That is what I like about the Sherco, simple and works well and reliable, looks good too! The Jap carb is just more precise a device as compared to the Dellorto. I am interisted to see if it prevents the occasional nose down fuel sloshing with resultant engine die out that occurs if you do not keep the revs up with the Dellorto. I have heard some say that they have not experienced this, but both of my recent 2.9's have done this on occasion. Enough for now, Cheers! MC ps- The Keihin does not have the fuel inlet screen of the Dellorto so a inline fuel filter should be considered mandatory!

I usually wash my NZI in the swimming pool, let the chlorine do the work,seems to help!

Well, the new carb finally arrived. Ryan was out of them for a while. Came with 45/125 jetting and a JJH needle, supposedly for the Sherco but first problem was it did not fit! Break out the Dremel and cut off the unused standpipe on the bottom of the bowl, that's better! Cut 4mm off the original cable tube on top and adjust cable so that throttle will shut(barely)! Found perfect intake hose, carb to airbox, from an aircraft, reinforced hose is a tight fit on carb and perfect fit on airbox. Length is correct also. These hoses are commercially available for about 2 bucks! Due to tight fit on card, connection of hose to airbox is a bit of a struggle. Not the preferred method(usually fitting box with hose to carb is easier)! With fuel tank fitted, have to rotate carb to near verticle so that choke will clear fuel petcock by .5mm, this puts bowl vent hose in a bind hitting muffler and closing off hose vent. Test start in garage ok, set idle and air screws runs OK. GOODNIGHT! Next morning testride, bike starts OK on choke. After a bit, starts to hesitate, and die. Restart ok and then died completely after warm, would not restart. Inspection of sparkie revealed overrich condition. Scratched head, then ass, then took out makita and drilled out the blanked out bowl vent nipple on the LEFT side if the carb and installed new sparkie. Started and ran perfectly, test ride(in aft yard) GREAT! Very smooth and controllable with good power. I should probably tear everything back apart now to be sure there are no metal fleks in the bottom of the carb from the drilling. Also need vent hose for left side. Im gonna go find meself a Cold Beer now! Cheers!

The pics of the new Sherco 250 Enduro motor are on the www.sherco-moto.com website. It looks pretty cool. I suppose the bike will be street legal like the 125 Citicorp since it has an electric start! I may have to have a go at one! I kinda fancy that electric starter on me trials bike too, just kidding!

Landrover, it only takes a few seconds(4 screws) to take the clutch cover off with the bike on its side and ck to see if the main clutch(pressure)plate is moving the same distance as the other bikes when the lever is pulled in, around .050 travel as I recall. That will tell you if the hydrolics are OK. Next pull the six bolts with springs and the clutch plates will come right out. You may need to use a bent paper clip or something to hook the edges and pull them out. Check them for warpage on a flat surface. My metal ones were the ones that were warped on the 1.25, the fibre plates were fine. Maybe Ishy or someone knows for sure how they look when new as I am still curious. I am sure Ryan Young would know, but I have been too lazy to call and ask as mine is not that bad. Cheers!

I am on my third Sherco and they all have some clutch creep, especially cold. This is not to be confused with the Sticking of the plates after sitting a few hours (or days). My 1.25 is the worst about creep. I inspected the plates and found some warpage in the steel plates. I asked around thinking this was abnormal and got differing responses. They appear to be stamped out of steel and there may be some warpage induced in the manufacturing process or be done that way to allow for more progressive engagement. I never did replace them as it is minimal after warmup, just a bit annoying. I need to look at some new ones I suppose. As far as the sticking goes, always try to break loose the sticking plates by placing the bike in gear and rocking the bike back and forth with the clutch in to release them before starting the bike and putting in gear while running. The alternitive is to be sure the bike is pointed at the softest and cheapist thing possible when placing into gear immediatly after startup, as you may run into it! After sitting about a month during our summer break here in Texas, (it's Hot), the clutch on my 2.9 would not release at all until it finally broke loose after about five minutes of riding, even after putting the front wheel against a tree and about killing myself with the bike wanting to climb the tree! It finally unstuck, bingo! Cheers!

They make tire patches now that install from the inside and have a plug device that goes through the hole to keep it in place. I have not tried one in a trials tire. Your best bet may be to put TWO conventional tire plugs in the hole with lots of glue. I have seen Jeoff Aaron, US champ, ride this way without problem!

Alan, I got ALL the answers for you TODAY, what you need is a new '05 0.8!

WWooooohh! A BIG BORE THUMPER! COOOOOOOL! I Want One!

Charlie, most skid plates are from 7075 alloy which is about the strongest aluminum there is, probably hardened to T3, i don't think it gets very soft even if you anneal it, it will crack before it bends in many cases. ps- It does not weld well either! Cheers!

GEE DAD, I NEED A NEW HELMET NOW TO MATCH THE NEW BIKE! MAYBE ONE OF THOSE CARBON ONES WITH THE FANCY PAINT LIKE RYAN HAS! YOU COULD EVEN PUT MY NAME ON THE BACK! PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE!

They were when I started typing!

Ok Charlie, here goes! I will remind you that I am not an expert at this and opinions may vary! First you have to understand that the tension of the spring is set by the cross sectional diameter (area) of the wire (spring steel) used to make the spring. If you looked at its cross section it would be pretty much round for most springs used in forks. To reduce the tension you must reduce this area, changing this cross section from a circle"O" to a "D". The force of the spring will be reduced proportional to the amount of material removed. The limit of material that can be removed safely is about 25% of the total material. This must be done evenly throughout the length of the spring to prevent creating stress points causing the spring to break prematurely. The best way I have found to grind these surfaces evenly is to chuck up the spring in a lathe and use a steel rod through the center that supports the length of the spring to a stand on the other end. Set the lathe to turn at a slow speed of about 50 rpm. I then use a automotive high speed body grinder with a 6 or 8 inch flexable abrasive disk of 80-120 grit and work evenly along the length of the spring to remove the amount of material required. Grind opposite the direction of spring rotation and be consistant with speed and pressure along its length. Keep moving! Do not create hot spots as this will weaken the spring as well. You can stop at any point and slide the spring into a fork leg assembly and using a set of bathroom scales, see how much force (in pounds) is required to compress the fork vertically to a predetermined (marked) distance, lets say 3 or 4 inches on the slider. Of course you need to measure this force before grinding as well to see how much change you have made. You will have to turn the spring around to grind the part that was inserted into the lathe chuck too. Both springs should be matched in force required to compress the spring. A good eye will tell you when all the flats on the springs appear equal width. A final sanding with 180-240 grit will polish the surfaces on the spring to reduce internal friction as the spring moves in the fork when used. Just don't grind too much cause you can't put the metal back! Wash and clean everything so that no small metal particles get in the forks and reassemble. I need a beer now! Cheers!

Alan, That little motor on the Sherco 80 (100 cc) will really go when you wind her up! They are just a bit less than the 1.25 and I won our last club event on the wifes 1.25 last month. Some type of air inlet or throttle restrictor may be in order until he gets used to the power and using the clutch so that he doesn't flip it! I estimate around 1/3 to 1/2 throttle would be a good start! There are several small kids that ride full size bikes though, the Mizell kids come to mind. Even the older ones probably don't weigh 80lbs soaking wet. An old Montesa rider once told me that is doesn't make any difference how much the bike weighs as long as the weight is on the wheels. Not sure exactly how much wisdom is in that? Oh by the way, the Delta link off the '04 big bikes has a greater leverage ratio effectively softening the rear suspention. I suspect that they may not have used this part on the smaller bikes. If you shorten the swingarm it will have the opposite effect. The part costs about 65 bucks and I think I would try that first if it seems too stiff for his weight. It should bolt right on. After that you can start grinding on the springs a bit, front and rear, if you think you need to soften it up more. I can tell you how later. If you can get with Ray P. I am sure he could supply some input as far as how it is all working(watching him ride). Ray is a good engineer! And always wants to show it! All these are easily done and undone. Just try not to hack up anything major at first. Mark

ALAN, First you have to convince us that you are not crazy! If you try to modify all that stuff it won't work! As a Sherco rider I can appreciate your concern about commonality BUT I believe that with his size he would be better off with the Beta 80. It has a better motor than the Gas Gas 70 and pretty good torque although a bit more flywheel wouldnt hurt as Ishy suggested but that is just one thing, not re-designing the bike. There were TWO in this months Trials Comp! At decent prices too! Mark