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wardo

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  1. I have a '05 4rt that has has between 300 and 400 hours on it. It has been incredibly reliable and only needed the valves to be adjusted once. I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke..." school, but I am thinking the bike must be due for a top end. Who else has done theirs and at how many hours? Did you notice a significant difference? Has anyone had their engine grenade from not rebuilding in a timely fashion? Thanks in advance for your replies. Regards, Wardo
  2. Today I had a chance to look the bike over. I cleaned the air filter, although it was pretty clean and replaced the plug. The bike ran fine afterwards. I am pretty sure it was the plug. I had just changed it 5 hours of run time previously. I think either the mechanic or I gave it too much gas before it was warmed up and carbon fouled the plug. I might also try going lighter on the airfilter oil. I do find it interesting that the 4rt is more sensitive to spark plugs than any 4 stroke I've owned, and even my '06 YZ 250. Thanks for the ideas. Regards, Wardo
  3. Hello All, I brought my 4rt in for a routine valve adjustment to a shop I'd never used before. The mechanic is definitely competent, but totally unfamiliar with 4rt's. I left the manual for him to check out the specs, etc. When I picked up the bike, he said the exhaust valves were slightly tight, and he adjusted them accordingly. Tonight I got a chance to ride the bike. It starts easily and idles well, but when I whack the throttle open it just coughs and there is nothing. Is there potentially something he overlooked or a common error that he might have made? Thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Wardo
  4. OK, I solved my own problem. I used a breaker bar with a 12mm to slowly turn the CS sprocket with the bike in gear and the plug out. It turned out that when using the kickstarter to find TDC, I was going it past it. The T would come and go without my observing it. The breaker bar allowed me to control things allot more. It is of course really not that difficult, and my valves were perfectly fine, so no adjustment needed. Regards, Wardo
  5. Thanks for the idea, unfortunately there seems to be air coming out every time.... What really baffles me is that once in every 720 degress the T has to be at TDC. If I try feeler gauges at both positions one of them should have at least a little gap, neither does. I know I am missing something as the bike starts and runs fine, so it can't be so far off. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Wardo
  6. I am digging into my bikes first valve adjustment and have a question that those of you who have done it before may be able to answer. Firstly, everything is relatively straight forward, and relatively easy to access. The question comes from trying to find TDC. When I align the T with the hole in the cases the rockers do not move freely, if I rotate it another 360 degrees I still cannot move them. I have tried to slide a feeler gauge in at both positions assuming one of them is TDC, but it is really tight. Is it possible that my valves are so tight that I cannot get a feeler gauge in an TDC? Other than being able to freely move the rocker arms can I verify that I am at TDC? What am I missing here? Thanks for your help in advance. Regards, Wardo
  7. wardo

    4rt Valves

    Thanks for the responses, the results are as I expected. I agree that the far lower revs are a significant factor in valve clearance issues, my 4rt isn't likely to hit 14,000 rpm unles I ride it off the top of Everest in first gear.... Still I'll check mine this week, for a feeler gauge I have one of the Motion Pro's made for tight spaces. Regards, Ward
  8. wardo

    4rt Valves

    305 views and no responses, what gives, is this top-secret info? Maybe I was unclear, I am interested for my 4rt, or maybe it's all been hashed out before and I can't find the link, if so please assist a wayward traveler.... Wardo
  9. wardo

    4rt Valves

    Having searched the forum, I haven't found much mention of valve adjustments. Having owned a Honda CRF 250R, thats all anyone talked about. So on your 4rt how often are you adjusting the valves, and how much out have you been? As for myself, I am due for an adjustment and would like to know what to expect. Regards, Wardo
  10. After getting a wicked burn from my Sherco headpipe, I wrapprd my 4rt headpipe in 1 inch "header wrap" that I bought on eBay for $10, along with some high temp silver paint. Now there is alot less heat coming off the pipe and I haven't burned my pants yet! Wardo
  11. wardo

    4rt Throttle Cable

    I too have had problems with the throttle cable routing. When I turn full lock right the revs climbed. I rerouted the cable behind the bars, that helped some, but didn't totally cure the problem. I need to leave a miniscule amount of slack in the cable, something I usually don't like, but have adapted to. Maybe a total reroute is in order.... Wardo
  12. Gold definitely has more bling, but at 45 I like the understated elegance of a black sprocket... actually I took what they had. As far as the gearing is concerned I like it allot, I've played with a 43t as well but after some testing prefer the 44t. For me it is a subtle difference, so I think either would be fine, but I definitely prefer either of the stock gearing. Wardo
  13. I got mine through Lewisport USA for around $40 USD, it is a Vemar (?), and a spiffy all black look. Ward
  14. wardo

    Montesa

    Most of my experience other than on my 4rt is on a Sherco 2.9, although I owned a Gas Gas 300 pro for awhile. The Sherco has been very durable for the record. Although I think my 4rt does feel slightly heavier, it makes up for it with improved handling and feel. The front comes up readily, and like anything it is a matter of getting accustomed to it. Since my hopping is very limited I can't really speak to that, but for floaters, steps, etc it feels nimble and solid simultaneously. I put pegs that are 3/4" back on both the Sherco and Montesa, but this is mostly a personal preference thing. The pegs significantly altered the feel, so this is an option that would allow you to tailor things to what you prefer. Good luck in your decision. Regards, Wardo
  15. wardo

    New 4rt

    Although I got my 4rt just at the end of August, I've done a number of modifications. The dealer removed the front and middle restrictors, the power seems fine and the sound acceptable, also I've tried both a 43t and 44t rear sprocket. I prefer the 44t. I put a Mitani skid plate on, it is thicker and more durable and the stock bent early on. For the clutch I ground down the actuator as suggested, but also use ARC levers (https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=133) which are far more adjustable and durable. I also installed Mitani peg mounts which I thought would move the pegs back some, but actually are located exactly in the same location as stock, although they are far beefier. Since I bent one of the stock mounts on a light get off, the extra strength is appreciated. I replaced the brake lever with the shorter and more tucked in Mitani unit, less leverage for sure so it is a mixed bag... it is out of the way though. I also bought a 315 top triple clamp and the put Renthal fatbars and clamps on, no performance difference, but far less prone to bending. Finally, what I think was the most significant improvement to the bike was installing the JPEG extra wide footpegs that mount 3/4" further back (https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=116). This helped the bike in so many ways, increasing traction in mud etc. as well as lightening the front end up. I don't mean to imply that the bike needs all these mods or any for that matter, as others have stated they love their bikes box stock. Ultimately getting your bike set up is a highly personal endeavour, and I found that each of the above changes improved the bike for me a little bit. I know you'll love your 4rt, ride it for awhile and then tweak it as you see fit to get the bike precisely the way you like. Regards, Wardo
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