wardo

I have a '05 4rt that has has between 300 and 400 hours on it. It has been incredibly reliable and only needed the valves to be adjusted once. I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke..." school, but I am thinking the bike must be due for a top end. Who else has done theirs and at how many hours? Did you notice a significant difference? Has anyone had their engine grenade from not rebuilding in a timely fashion? Thanks in advance for your replies. Regards, Wardo

Today I had a chance to look the bike over. I cleaned the air filter, although it was pretty clean and replaced the plug. The bike ran fine afterwards. I am pretty sure it was the plug. I had just changed it 5 hours of run time previously. I think either the mechanic or I gave it too much gas before it was warmed up and carbon fouled the plug. I might also try going lighter on the airfilter oil. I do find it interesting that the 4rt is more sensitive to spark plugs than any 4 stroke I've owned, and even my '06 YZ 250. Thanks for the ideas. Regards, Wardo

Hello All, I brought my 4rt in for a routine valve adjustment to a shop I'd never used before. The mechanic is definitely competent, but totally unfamiliar with 4rt's. I left the manual for him to check out the specs, etc. When I picked up the bike, he said the exhaust valves were slightly tight, and he adjusted them accordingly. Tonight I got a chance to ride the bike. It starts easily and idles well, but when I whack the throttle open it just coughs and there is nothing. Is there potentially something he overlooked or a common error that he might have made? Thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Wardo

OK, I solved my own problem. I used a breaker bar with a 12mm to slowly turn the CS sprocket with the bike in gear and the plug out. It turned out that when using the kickstarter to find TDC, I was going it past it. The T would come and go without my observing it. The breaker bar allowed me to control things allot more. It is of course really not that difficult, and my valves were perfectly fine, so no adjustment needed. Regards, Wardo

Thanks for the idea, unfortunately there seems to be air coming out every time.... What really baffles me is that once in every 720 degress the T has to be at TDC. If I try feeler gauges at both positions one of them should have at least a little gap, neither does. I know I am missing something as the bike starts and runs fine, so it can't be so far off. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Wardo

I am digging into my bikes first valve adjustment and have a question that those of you who have done it before may be able to answer. Firstly, everything is relatively straight forward, and relatively easy to access. The question comes from trying to find TDC. When I align the T with the hole in the cases the rockers do not move freely, if I rotate it another 360 degrees I still cannot move them. I have tried to slide a feeler gauge in at both positions assuming one of them is TDC, but it is really tight. Is it possible that my valves are so tight that I cannot get a feeler gauge in an TDC? Other than being able to freely move the rocker arms can I verify that I am at TDC? What am I missing here? Thanks for your help in advance. Regards, Wardo

Thanks for the responses, the results are as I expected. I agree that the far lower revs are a significant factor in valve clearance issues, my 4rt isn't likely to hit 14,000 rpm unles I ride it off the top of Everest in first gear.... Still I'll check mine this week, for a feeler gauge I have one of the Motion Pro's made for tight spaces. Regards, Ward

305 views and no responses, what gives, is this top-secret info? Maybe I was unclear, I am interested for my 4rt, or maybe it's all been hashed out before and I can't find the link, if so please assist a wayward traveler.... Wardo

Having searched the forum, I haven't found much mention of valve adjustments. Having owned a Honda CRF 250R, thats all anyone talked about. So on your 4rt how often are you adjusting the valves, and how much out have you been? As for myself, I am due for an adjustment and would like to know what to expect. Regards, Wardo

After getting a wicked burn from my Sherco headpipe, I wrapprd my 4rt headpipe in 1 inch "header wrap" that I bought on eBay for $10, along with some high temp silver paint. Now there is alot less heat coming off the pipe and I haven't burned my pants yet! Wardo

I too have had problems with the throttle cable routing. When I turn full lock right the revs climbed. I rerouted the cable behind the bars, that helped some, but didn't totally cure the problem. I need to leave a miniscule amount of slack in the cable, something I usually don't like, but have adapted to. Maybe a total reroute is in order.... Wardo

Gold definitely has more bling, but at 45 I like the understated elegance of a black sprocket... actually I took what they had. As far as the gearing is concerned I like it allot, I've played with a 43t as well but after some testing prefer the 44t. For me it is a subtle difference, so I think either would be fine, but I definitely prefer either of the stock gearing. Wardo

I got mine through Lewisport USA for around $40 USD, it is a Vemar (?), and a spiffy all black look. Ward

Most of my experience other than on my 4rt is on a Sherco 2.9, although I owned a Gas Gas 300 pro for awhile. The Sherco has been very durable for the record. Although I think my 4rt does feel slightly heavier, it makes up for it with improved handling and feel. The front comes up readily, and like anything it is a matter of getting accustomed to it. Since my hopping is very limited I can't really speak to that, but for floaters, steps, etc it feels nimble and solid simultaneously. I put pegs that are 3/4" back on both the Sherco and Montesa, but this is mostly a personal preference thing. The pegs significantly altered the feel, so this is an option that would allow you to tailor things to what you prefer. Good luck in your decision. Regards, Wardo

Although I got my 4rt just at the end of August, I've done a number of modifications. The dealer removed the front and middle restrictors, the power seems fine and the sound acceptable, also I've tried both a 43t and 44t rear sprocket. I prefer the 44t. I put a Mitani skid plate on, it is thicker and more durable and the stock bent early on. For the clutch I ground down the actuator as suggested, but also use ARC levers (https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=133) which are far more adjustable and durable. I also installed Mitani peg mounts which I thought would move the pegs back some, but actually are located exactly in the same location as stock, although they are far beefier. Since I bent one of the stock mounts on a light get off, the extra strength is appreciated. I replaced the brake lever with the shorter and more tucked in Mitani unit, less leverage for sure so it is a mixed bag... it is out of the way though. I also bought a 315 top triple clamp and the put Renthal fatbars and clamps on, no performance difference, but far less prone to bending. Finally, what I think was the most significant improvement to the bike was installing the JPEG extra wide footpegs that mount 3/4" further back (https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=116). This helped the bike in so many ways, increasing traction in mud etc. as well as lightening the front end up. I don't mean to imply that the bike needs all these mods or any for that matter, as others have stated they love their bikes box stock. Ultimately getting your bike set up is a highly personal endeavour, and I found that each of the above changes improved the bike for me a little bit. I know you'll love your 4rt, ride it for awhile and then tweak it as you see fit to get the bike precisely the way you like. Regards, Wardo

Thanks for the responses, maybe I should have called my post "steam cleaning discs". The rear brake on my 4rt isn't as powerful as I'd like, so I followed the procedure and it did make a difference. One contributing factor is that I have a Mitani brake pedal, which is far shorter then stock, and thus offers far less leverage. Are there brake pads that offer more "bite" than the stock units? Thanks, Wardo

I remember reading someplace about quenching discs after getting them good and hot to increase their performance, can anyone explain the reasoning as well as specific procedure to me? Thanks, Wardo

How many 4rt owners have used a quick turn throttle? I have an aluminum quick turn throttle tube I threw on to see how it worked. Honestly I didn't notice any significant difference. Any other experiences out there? Wardo

The 4rt does seem difficult to get into neutral. I asked about this, and was told that it was designed that way so as not to miss any shifts. I've owned over 30 motorcycles in my life, and had very few problems finding neutral, or missing shifts. Having said that, it really doesn't bother me. I usually just put it into neutral when I shut off the engine, otherwise I hold in the clutch or spend a second with the engine running fishing around. Wardo

Fruit Bat, I know that Adrian at Lewisport USA had some of the RTL fenders. You could just buy an '05 or '06 and swap the fenders over. Save the stock for when you sell it. You might drop him a line and see what they'd cost. Wardo

Thanks for the responses, the day after I posted here I pegged the off camber rock hop... I have no idea what I did differently, it just stuck. I keep being amazed at what this bike will stick to, then occasionally I'll just land and spin.... It is obvious to me that although I feel very comfortable on the bike, the subtle differences are taking a while to adapt to. Still, when I apply the skills I have acquired it allows me to do things I was unable to do before. I do think that MikeID has a point, new bikes are cool, and the sheer excitement of having such a great bike allows me to advance. Still, I think the bike is substantially better for me. I also think DGShannon has a good point, the 4rt is different and takes allot of adapting. I felt comfortable immediately on mine, but my rapid improvement on it shows that I am relearning skills I had already mastered on my Sherco. I really do love it, and at this point wouldn't trade it for any other. One thing I didn't mention in my original review is how much I love the fuel injection. The bike starts hot, cold, crashed etc with one or two push throughs (kicks without the oomph). It runs clean from cold and no rejetting for different temperatures and altitudes is a big plus for me... I hate jetting and don't miss it in the least. Regards, Wardo

Now that I have a number of hours on my 4RT I thought I'd commit some of my impressions to ether. Firstly, here in New England the bikes are fairly rare compared to the ubiquitous Gas Gas, Sherco and Beta armadas. After riding mine, I attribute this mostly to price, it isn't easy for people to justify the price difference between the 2t's and the 4RT. I am not sure the case can be made for the price difference, but I appreciate the excellent build quality, as well as the performance of my bike. I am an 45 y.o. intermediate rider who has been racing off-road for 35+ years, and riding trials allot for the last 15 months. I don't hop like a bunny, but floaters and medium steps are doable.... I've been riding an '04 Sherco 2.9 and had a Gas Gas 300 pro for 6 months. When I first rode my COTA I noticed that the 41t rear sprocket was a bit quick, that it was pushing a bit and it was a bit heavier than my Sherco. The push was easy to tune out, I put a 43t sprocket on and voila, instant gratification. I do notice the weight, but it feels more grounded than the other bikes... a feeling I like. It turns well and responds to inputs readily. Floaters are a pleasure and overall the bike feels very well balanced. I expected a considerably steeper learning curve then I actually experienced. I was cleaning virtually all of my practice sections after 2 rides on the bike, and 3 or 4 obstacles I never was able to ride before, much less clean... some of these are fairly difficult for my skill level, but repetition has made them ridable for me. The dealer removed the front and middle restrictors, which I plan on reinstalling and experimenting with. I ride on my own property, right next to neighbors houses, so I like quite. With just the rear restrictor in, the sound seems very reasonable. In certain instances the bike just grunts through stuff that my 2t's spun in, there is certainly plenty of motor for my riding. It does seem to really want your weight to the rear to maintain traction, but if I remember to do this it just hooks right up. I put on some 3/4" rear set pegs that have been residing on my Sherco, and this seemed to help. I think I'll try the Mitani set backs as well. The clutch action is often critisized, but it seems fine to me. I've tried riding without slipping the clutch as well as the 2t technique of sliping virtually 100% of the time, I've arrived at a compromise where I use it less than previously, but still quite a bit. I may try the larger master cylinder, but not because I think it needs it. The suspension seems a huge step up from the Sherco, which really lacks any adjustment ability. The Gas Gas was better, but I still think the Showa units are the best I've ridden by a good margin. There is one obstacle that the COTA and I haven't figured out yet, it involves riding onto an off camber rock, then jumping to another with the camber reversed. On my Sherco, as long as it is dry, I would just jump and plant the rear wheel. My 4RT spins the wheel as soon as it lands, making for some exciting recoveries... I know I'll master it in time, it is probably a very small adjustment in my riding that I just haven't identified yet. I learned early on that trials bikes are very subtle, and getting one tuned to your particular riding style is a time consuming task. Very little adjustments seem to make large differences in the way the bike works for me. Therefore, I am very happy with how easy the transition to the 4RT has been. I am confident that over the coming months my fiddling will allow me to take my riding to the next level. The build quality is outstanding, the engine is a pleasure, and the chassis felt like home the second I hopped on it. Overall, I am totally satisfied with my bike. It meets or exceeds all my expectations. Finally, I'd like to thank the members of the forum for sharing their knowledge, it has been invaluable in making the transition successful. Regards, Wardo

To answer part of my own question, someone sent me what they knew about the '06. The clutch master cylinder will be revised, and the fuel injection will also get some minor tweaks. The plastic will be unpainted and there will of course be new graphics. Regards, Wardo

Trialsurfer, Yeah, I didn't imagine many would have 200 hours yet, I ride something like 6-10 hours a week, and have an 8 month season... so I figure with weeks off, etc. my Sherco got around 200 hours last year. It hasn't missed a beat. At a recent event I took the time to really look over the 4rt, and I was incredibly impressed with the build quality. I also loved my Honda CRF250R, so it seems logical to give the Montesa a go. Regards, Ward

I've been thinking of getting a 4RT, the dealer told me the only update for '06 was BNG (Bold New Graphics). Does anyone know otherwise? Also I'd love some long term feedback from a couple of people who ride thier bikes 200+ hours a year on maintenance, durability, etc. After the initial impressions I've seen very few long term reviews, what do you like, what drives you nuts? I'd gladly take the comments off forum if you don't want to share them here. My e-mail is wardo-at-sover-dot-net. Thanks, Wardo