7heilRhino

I had the same issue with my 2023 Gasgas 250. It was an absolute pain to start. The piston has to be in the right position and you need the leg of a rhino to start it. Wore me out fast. My solution was to put a 1mm head spacer on it to lower the compression. It’s very easy to do and cost me about $25 to do it. It’s a different bike now. I got the head spacer from Trial Enduro Direct https://trialendurodirect.com/product/gg-pro-model-cylinder-head-spacer/?v=7516fd43adaa. It costs £12.75 and shipping to me in the USA was about another $12. I love it because it’s a lot less expensive than the S3 low compression kit and it worked. Good luck!

Wow! Did not know that. Thanks for jumping in. This is the very reason I posted the question here to learn what I don’t know. Given what you said I don’t think I’ll try my experiment. Thank you!

Thanks for the input. I meant only in the tail end of the pipe. The oil contamination was what I thought might kill the idea too but I think it still might be worth a try. Carbon fiber weighs about 15% less than fiberglass so the weight savings is negligible but I think density would be about the same keeping performance the same. Longevity and resiliency to heat and oil are the goals in my head. It can definitely take the heat better than fiberglass so that leaves the dreaded oil problem. If you try it using the unidirectional fiber let me know and I’ll try woven. I don’t think this idea will save the world but it seems like a good experiment to me. Thanks again for jumping in!

I’ll let you know if I pull the trigger.

I’ll wait to see what others think before trying but I agree with your concerns. It’d be interesting to see and hear.

Oh, forgot to mention that I did a quick back of the napkin estimate and by volume 1 square meter/yard would be equal 1,200 grams of fiberglass packing so you could repack a typical trials silencer with one square yard three times. Typical costs range from $30ish to $45ish dollars per sq. yd. That would only cost $10ish to $15ish per repack. Maybe I’ve gone bats! Probably.

I realize this may be a crazy question but has anyone used carbon fiber as a silencer packing? It’s sound insulation properties are very high and it won’t burn or get brittle. I know it’s expensive but it might just last indefinitely in a muffler and could possibly be reused once it’s fouled. Seems to me that sound decibels would decrease and would last a good long time. When it comes to acoustic properties, carbon fiber is often compared to materials like aluminum, steel, and fiberglass. Carbon fiber generally has better acoustic performance than these materials, as it has a higher stiffness to weight ratio and lower density. Laugh if you will but I’m just wondering. Cheers!

I left out S3: Spain Based; https://www.s3parts.com/en/s/GASGAS/TXT/250/2023 (enter your make and model and you’ll see all they have to offer fit the 2023 and 2024 Gasgas models.

Just wanted to jump in and say that S3 have come out with aftermarket foot pegs but I’m with you on a good place for aftermarket parts. Here are some web stores I’ve been using. I’ve been noticing far more aftermarket parts just recently. Tryals Shop: US Based; https://www.tryalsshop.com/ (Seems like a great store with fair pricing) Trial Enduro Direct: UK Based; https://trialendurodirect.com/product-category/trials-accessories/gas-gas-trials/?doing_wp_cron=1707886412.9545309543609619140625&v=7516fd43adaa (found some parts here at a great price I couldn’t find anywhere else, very responsive and knowledgeable staff) Abad Trials: US Based https://abadtrials.com/ (looks like a new store but they have some very competitive pricing) Trials Superstore: US Based; https://trialssuperstore.com/ (lots of products but is most likely the most expensive trials shop in the world) CPD: US Based; https://www.cpd-usa.com/shop (lots of products, competitive pricing)

I’ve heard that (using Saber) from many other riders because they mix @ 100:1, save money and have a cleaner burn. I’d like to be able to do that too but just can’t pull the trigger. I contacted Amsoil personally and asked, off the record, if I could but they closed the door on that and said to use Amsoil Dominator instead. Very trustworthy and competent people seem to use it with no problems but Amsoil clearly says not to. I wonder what the deal really is. I’m currently using Motorex at man. rec. @ 67:1 and wished things burned a bit cleaner. My bike is new with only about 4 hours on it and I pulled the head off to have a look. Everything was covered in carbon and oil. It smokes like crazy too. 2 strokes smoke, I get that, but am I missing out on something somewhere? Maybe it need to break-in more, I don’t know.

I’m kind of late to the party but wanted to throw in my experience with a 1974 Yamaha TY250A. Just to start, yes, it would go 60mph on the road without a problem. I did it nearly every day to get to my riding area. It would only do it in 5th gear which was an overdrive installed to do just what you were wanting to do. It was all stock with no modifications whatsoever. You asked a question about whether you should modify or keep stock and I would have replied to keep it stock. I would love to own my old motorcycle again but a decent one without poor modifications is extremely hard to find. I think, for the time, that the bike and setup was perfect. They weren’t designed or meant to be purely trial centric but also a road going get-a-bout too. That’s why they had the lights and mirrors. I currently have a 2023 Gasgas TXT 250 that is purely trial centric and I miss the ability to get on the road for a bit to get from point A to point B. If you’ve still got that bike I’m very jealous. Have fun!

Just wanted to follow up and let you know I’ve got my bike sorted out from suggestions posted here by all of you. 1st: I installed a slow throttle with very little success. 2nd: I installed a head spacer to lower the compression to make starting easier and mellow out the throttle response to a more smooth and predictable way. It worked like a charm and cost hardly anything; about $25. 3rd: I added a flywheel weight to keep the RPMs from getting away from me and racing off without me. Again, worked like a charm. Lastly, I will keep a finger on the throttle. Also, I want to thank everyone who was so helpful and pitched in to help me solve this without breaking the bank.

I hated the elastic thing and made my own using the magnet, little black connector, some paracord and a bead. Works great! Nearly cost free. Give it a shot!

Hey jbrandt, I realize this is an old thread but I was just wondering how it went for you? I have a new Gasgas and it kicks me back like a mule. Did the head spacer work! I just ordered one myself and am hoping for the best. Thanks!