amcq46

coxy, I am in the UK and am using one of the Lipse spring that Jack Hemmingway manufactures [see laser1 reply] on my 2006 250 pro. i fitted it as my clutch has always been stiffer than every other GG Pro I have tried, and I have done all the same checks as you. New Clutch pack - set to correct pack AND finger height as defined by Factory Kev at GGUK - no change New seals and o-rings in slave cylinder - no change New master cyl seals - no change New Fluid [mineral oil obviously] - No change I even fitted the larger diameter clutch hose [even though I couldnt understand how this would help] - No change So I got one of Jacks machined down springs, and it made a big change to the lever effort, but it had clutch slip in 4th & 5th [and some times in 3rd if the oil was old]. based on that I got Jack to make one slightly thicker, and that is the one I use today and that only slips in top gear if the ATF oil is getting old. When I get back home I can check my notes and confirm the thickness of both washers, and you can get Jack to make you one, or if you are interested, I can send you the thinner one I have for you to try for your self. Send me a PM with your contact details if interested.

well, I did Hawkstone park on sunday, and no new noises despite a hot & hard trial, so it looks like I got away with any further damage. Thanks for advise

There used to be a place known as "Tommys Farm" just outside Rhayder [mid Wales], that had about 500 acres of hill farm and would allow you to camp. We used to go there with the enduro bikes, and there would be more than enough for all levels of trials, but a) it is in the middle of nowhere, and the camping facilities were limited to "put your tent where ever you like in that field full of cows". But it was a great place to play, but I am not sure what the crack is now. I had a quick look on the web and found this as a starter for you. http://wikimapia.org/10834940/Toms-Farm-Off-Road-Track Toms Farm (Nr. Rhayader - Cwmderw Farm) - Contact Tom on 01597 870202 (pay & play farm track) Postcode LD6 5NB as it isn't the easiest to locate!

Many thanks for all the replies. The advice has given me confidence to keep running it unless it starts to make noises. here hoping it stays quiet!

Having had a very poor ride today at the Earl Shilton trial, I decided to wash the bike in the river, and I managed to find a section of river that was much deeper than usual [i guess all the rain should have been a clue!] and filled the airbox with water. The engine was running when the airbox filled, but only at idle and it died instantly. I have emptied the airbox, dried the filter, drained the carb, taken the plug out and kicked it over [slowly at first incase it was full of water, which it wasn't] to clean it out. With a new plug it started after about 30 kicks, and I let it get warm and have run it up and down the road at half power to try and dry out any water remaining in the crank area. At this point it is running OK and no abnormal noises. After that I have dropped the gearbox oil as this was showing signs of water [ATF was pink not red], and sprayed lots of WD40 down the plug hole with the piston at BDC and the bike leaning both left & then right to ensure the WD40 was going down both transfer ports in the hope that it would get down to the mains. Then I have slowly kicked teh engine over to distribute the WD40. So the main question is .........What should I do next? Is it OK to keep riding it or should I consider a top end strip down to inspect further?

As HAM2 says, there is an eccentric adjuster under the clutch which sets the null position of the shift lever by moving the double sided return spring fixing point. it is easy to do and there are good instructions on other posts in these forms.

Training started today step 1 - no throttle & high idle speed.........passed with flying colours, even got her using the front brake and 2nd gear and clutch slipping tight u turns with feet down. step 2 - normal idle, limited action throttle........bit scared at first, but again got is sussed step 3 - try and stand up when riding........again got the hang of it even though she did have to take care not to open teh throttle as she sat down again. so nothing bad to dent her confidence today..........will try more standing tomorrow.

Tombo, photos of the seat bodge as requested Told you it was a farmyard job, but the internal cut outs are tapered like the tank and rear fender, so it is pretty well locked in place ! You can also see the engine kill string - all very hightech

Based on the input from you all the TXT250 pro is now kitted out for rider training with: A seat cut & shaped from 3" building insulation foam block [done with a rip saw, so looks a bit farmyard, but it is rigid & stable platform] A string lanyard to the +ve terminal of the kill switch And a throttle restrictor made from a piece of fuelpipe slit in half length ways and put in the lower section of the twist grip housing so it acts to stop the twistgrip at an early angle . The limit can be adjusted depending on how long I cut the fuel pipe, but is set for about 5 degrees rotation on a slow action throttle tube at present. I will disconnect the throttle cable and use a high tickover to start with, and then when the cable is back on, at least I know she cant yank the throttle open in a panic and fly through the garden fence!. Only need it to stop raining now and give it a try! Thanks for the inspiration

Odgie, I have to agree with Graham on your website mate......one in the eye for all the PC brigade, and great fun to read. .........it took me back to my mispent youth, and then made me realise that I clearly wasnt trying hard enough! Did you also do a couple of articles in Trail Bike Magazine many years ago, I have a dim recolection of a BSA scrambler with a cracked piston

Hoogle, on the 2005, I think you have 2 options: 1) as JSE said, the 06 had a thinner Belville spring [clutch spring on a GG] than the 05, so your dealer should be able to sort you out with the newer part which I think is 10% less stiff. 2) Get the LiPSE spring from Jack in the USA, and although he would custom machine it to suit your bike, skill, weight, it would be at least 10% lower than the 2006. I am very happy with the change the LiPSE made to my bike, and at least 1 of my mates also bought one after trying my bike, and has the same good report.

Some great advise so far from dads & lads, many thanks. I think I will try her on my 250pro using Tom's high tickover trick, and see if she gets to grips with the basics and can progress to standing up. I am still thinking how I can rig up a seat, and limit the throttle movement to prevent any panic reactions, but I have an old throttle housing which I am sure I can make some mods to and sort that out. If she gets through that we can see if a big wheel 80 or a 125 comes up locally, and go from there. Any other comments are more than welcome, as the ones so far have been very helpfull

I had a similar issue on my 06, and I changed the o-rings, fitted the large diameter hose and replaced the plates and set the finger height to spec......................it made almost not change! What I then did was to get one of these skimmed clutch springs .clutch spring and it has been great since then. even with postage from USA it was still a cheep mod, clutch is now superlight and I dont get any clutch slip, so it could be worth a try for you.

A question to all you parents out there. My 13yr old daughter is showing an interest in learning to ride a bike and getting into trials, but as she has never riden any kind of motorcycle before I am not sure what best to start her on. Although she is tall, she is not very heavy or strong, so I guess lighter and easy to start is important. main thoughts / questions: 1) Clearly one of the auto clutch bikes would be much easier for her to learn on, but are they too small for a tall 13yr old, and would she out grow it too quick? - which are the best auto options for her size and lack of skill? 2) Are TY80's already too small for a 13yr old, or too restricted in what they can do to let her both learn then perhaps progress to white route? 3) if not a 50 auto, or a TY80, what are the other options? I am not sure if this is a real passion and that she would want to progress to competition, or just a try out then get bored [or frightened], so I dont want to throw too much money at it, but I do want to let her have a go and see if she enjoys it. Any advise from those who have been in the same situation with sons / daughters?

From my history with Betas, there was one other weakness. You should also check for any water leaks or corrosion on the joint between the main clutch side cover and the water pump housing. it is know for the coolant to eat into the casting [i think it is reacting with the magnesium content, even if you use the correct coolants] from the inside and eventually undermine the o-ring seal. If there is even the slightest weep on the bottom of the waterpump it is likly this is happening, then it will need a new clutch cover casting. Other than that I was happy with my Beta when I had it. Carb didnt leak and Stator didnt fail!