brucey

Thanks OAS, I'm just a bit concerned as I think the Stator has now packed up and I don't want to break it again after paying

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I attached the Yam kill switch to the red/white wire and to earth on my Sons 97 Techno. Was this wrong? Bruce.

I purchased a puller from Lamkin's and managed to remonve the flywheel. It was extremely tight and I ended up putting a ball bearing between the puller and the end of the crank to reduce the friction. I did it up as tight as I could, waited about 10 mins and hit the end of the puller bolt with a hammer. It eventually released! I marked the stator position as I haven't a clue how your ment to re time it on reasembly as the flywheel will in the way! I have to say, it all looks in good condition but I have no idea what I'm meant to be testing as my wires are all different colours to those on the Motoplat website. Probably because it's got Ducati written on it! The only suspect thing is that the ohm reading from the yellow wire to earth shows continuity but fluctuated from 100 to 4 ohms (maybe my meter is getting a bit old), as this is also part of the ingnition cut out circuit, it seems a bit odd. I've e mailed Steve at Bradford Ignitions and am awaiting a reply but don't really want the cost of sending it to Spain for repair. The West Country Windings phone number on their website no longer works. Is there anyone else in the UK to try? Bruce.

Thanks Bob, I'll give John Lampkin a ring. I've also still got to confirm if West Country Windings is still going. Bruce.

Right, I undid the flywheel nut by making a flywheel holding tool from an imertion heater spanner (drilled and tapped it to accept 2 off M4 cap head screws which fitted into the holes on the flywheel). The nut wasn't as tight as I thought it would be, What torque do I do it up to? Now I need a flywheel puller. There arn't any specific Beta ones on ebay at the moment. Does anyone know the thread size, pitch and hand? Would say a gas gas puller fit a Beta Techno? Any help appreciated. Bruce.

SR34, Many thanks for the info. Bruce.

Ongoing problems with my son's Beta Techno. It used to cut out when the fan cut in and the engine was running at tick over. Now it won't start at all! Looking on the bright side, at least it doesn't cut out any more! There is no spark. Tried different plug and disconnecting the Yamaha Stop Switch, but still no spark (even in the dark). I suspect the stator windings have finally packed up and am now struggling to get the flywheel off as I don't have a flywheel holder or puller. Can anyone help with the following questions: 1. Is there a simple test I can carry out on the wires from the stator to confirm it's faulty. (I have an Ohm Meter) 2. Can I use an air ratchet gun to remove the flywheel nut (I'm assuming it's a right hand thread) I can borrow a gun & have a compressor. 3. Once the nut is off, do I still need a puller to remove the flywheel? 4. What do the 2 screws on the outside of the flywheel do? 5. Are there any other tests I can do to check the CDI Unit and HT Coil etc before going down the uneconomical route of replacing them. 6 Is West Country Windings still going? I know the bike has no great value but apart from the fact it doesn't run, it's very tidy for it's age so if I can get it running reliably for a minimal cost, I'll have a much happier son! Any advice appreciated, Bruce.

Thanks guys, All relavent stuff which I can check. I'm assuming the 'compensation port' is in the master cylinder as this is the only piston that returns to its start position. Bruce.

Thanks for the reply Peter. A couple of miles up a stream! I live in Hythe, kent. The nearest thing we have to a stream is a 4 ft deep canal or the English Channel! Both brakes started binding even worse after 5 mins riding up and down the road, although the front wheel spins better now the brake has cooled down. I stopped 'bedding' the brakes in when the bike became hard to push in neutral as they were also becoming hot. I have to admit I did adjust the master cylinders so there was only a small gap between the levers and the master cylinder push rods. The new pads are pattern parts and my concern is the almost non existent gap between the back of the pads and the caliper body. This suggests they are maximum thickness. I'll back off the adjusters and de glase the pads before giving it another go. My friends 04 TXT Pro has excellent brakes. I just thought mine should be as good if not better as he only has a 2 pot rear caliper. Bruce.

Your collective wisdom is once more required! I replaced the front & rear pads and ran fresh brake fluid through the systen as part of the overhaul on my 2000 txt 280. When I changed the pads, I pushed the brake cylinder pistons (all 8 of them!) in and out a number of times to make sure they all operated o.k. On reassembly with the new pads, I now find both brakes binding. I took the bike for a short test ride to bed the pads in, but they just got hot/worse. The front seems to have eased off a bit after cooling down but the back brake is still binding badly. There is less than 0.15 mm between the back of the pads and the back caliper so I'm assuming I need to rub some off the front face of the pads. Questions are: Is this normal? 1. How much should I rub off? 2. What's the best way to do this (course wet & dry on a flat surface?) 3. Both brakes arn't exacty sharp considering they are 4 pot calipers. Will this inprove as the pads settle in or do I need to start replacing master cylinders? Any help appreciated. Bruce.

Thanks for the replies guys, Could you double check your units are 280mm between mounting centres and e mail me with some idea of price. Sounds like I may have a solution to my problem! A photo would also be nice if that's possible! My e mail address is bruce.yule@tiscali.co.uk. Bruce.

I'm rebuilding the rear suspension on the above bike. The rear Sachs shock is a bit 'iffy'. The dampening screw has snapped off, the bump stop is perished and the adjustment rings have been mullered by someone with a screwdriver and hammer! Bearing in mind the age/value of the bike, whats my cheapest option? I phoned John Shirt & RCM for the availability of second hand units, but no luck. RCM have a 'Pro' unit but said it would be too long (mine is 280mm between mounting bolt centres). They also said the adjustment screw couldn't be repaired even if I sent the unit for reconditioning. I was under the impression that the yellow spring rear shocks were the same across all models but it seems I was wrong. Apart from just leaving it, has anyone got a good one lying around, or suggest where I could try obtaining a good second hand unit? Any help appreciated. Bruce.

Hi, The only thing I could find to remove my son's trouswer leg from my Gas Gas exhaust was wire wool. It takes a while, but doesn't seem to damage the chrome plating. I also tried t cut and scotch brite without sucess. Hope this helps. Bruce.

Thanks guys, especially RoughRider for taking the trouble to pull his bike apart for a coplete stranger! I'll check it over the weekend. If I can't find anything wrong I'll take it to Steven's Trials to let them take a look. Life is too short! Bruce.

Cheers Ruffrider, I'll strip the clutch and fill with lighter oil. As you also have a 97 Techno, is there any chance you could tell me what colour and how many wires are connected to the fan circuit? Thanks, Bruce.

Still having problems with my Son's 97 Techno. I put Comma 75/90 semi synthetic gear oil in the transmission/clutch. With the result that the clutch drags worse than ever! Can I put Automatic transmission fluid in (or something else available from my local motor factor)? Also the bike is really hard to start and stalls when hot. Seems to be tied up with when the fan is running. I rewired the stop switch and fan when I removed the lights and lighting loom. The circuit diagram in the manual doesn't seem to match the wiring on the bike! I'm getting a bit desperate now as I can't see that wiring the little block with 1 yellow wire comming from it (I assume this is the voltage regulator) in paralell with the fan is helping the problem. Surely I can't be the only person that's removed the lights and fitted an aftermarket kill switch. Can anyone look at their bike and tell me which wire (including colour) goes where. Any help would be appreciated as I seem to have made a very nice bike unridable. My Son did his first trial (Folkestone Club) last weekend but would have enjoyed it more if the bike had run better. Any help appreciated! Bruce.

I followed Betarec3's advice and rang BVM. A very helpful gut advised I connect the yellow wire comming from the 'adjuster' (reguator) in parallel with the fan. After doing this, the bike seems to start a lot better when hot (fan running). I'll monitor it during the next few times out, but it appears the problem is sorted. Many thanks for your help. Bruce.

Betarev3, Many thanks for the info, I'll give them a call next Tesday. I visited BVM some years ago when I was on holiday in Stonehouse Glos. My son & his 2 friends joined the Barham Club (Kent) today which has swollen their numbers to38! They will stamp their ACU licence applications and then we can choose a suitable first ever club trial! I really hope they enjoy themselves as they can only improve with competition experience. Having a reliable bike will be a major factor. Bruce.

Andy, Thanks for the information. Funny people these pre 65 trials chaps! I built a top spec Cub a couple of years ago and sold it it fund my Caterham 7. Sammy Miller was even intrested in it when I took it to the Telmag with a 'for sale' sign. Some dealer eventually bought it for a Spanish guy who thought his mechanics (who were flying over in advance) could use it for spares for the classic 6 day trial!!! Obviously serious stuff! My son and his 2 friends are ready to join a club and start doing trials. This is why I want his bike as reliable as possible. I usually lay out practice sections where we ride. One of his friends can only be described as exceptional considering the length of time he has been practicing (he is also very good at push bike trials stuff). They are all 17years old, but because all 3 of them ride 250's, I guess they can't ride Kent Youth Club Trials. I'll probably get them to join a small (friendly?) club so they can start on the Adult Novice Sections this summer. I'll wait in anticipation. Can you recommend a shop I can ring for advice? Bruce.

Anybody out there? Surley someone has removed the lights and lighting loom! I usually get an instant response on the Caterham 7 website but unfortunaley they don't know much about Beta's! Bruce.

As it says in the title; I helped my son remove the handlebar lighting switch assembly and a vast amount of wiring on his recently aquired 1997 Beta Techno.(ex Ashley Newbry) We fitted a Sammy Miller Kill Switch which I have wired one wire to a red/white wire in the loom (as this appears to be the kill switch in the wiring diagram). The other wire, I took to earth. This seems to work o.k. but other topics on this forum say connect the kill switch to the black wire from the coil! The other problem I have is that the wiring diagram in the manual doesn't seem to correspond to the wire colours on the bike! I have wired the fan to a yellow wire comming out of the main connector block (from the magneto?) which turns on & off ok with the thermostat. The problem is the bike has become hard to start, especially when hot and the fan is trying to run. There is an 'Adjuster' in the wiring diagram that shows a black wire comming from it. I am assuming this is a voltage regulator. Threre is a little black thing on the bike with a single yellow wire comming from it which is not currently connected to anything! Should this be in the circuit somewere to regulate the voltage to the fan? I have also modified the drillings in the carb as per an American website. This seems to have resolved the problem of fuel pouring out the overflow pipe. Any help and advice appreciated. Bruce.