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randyrat

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  1. Okay, so I want to get a trials bike road registered, MOTd and Taxed. The tyres I have on at the moment are marked "competition use", so will these fail the MOT? If I blob some road tyres on for the test, then subsequently swap back to the stickies, will Mr Plod nobble me? So, for all you chaps who ride combined On/Off road trials....what tyres do you use? Does Plod turn a blind eye at organised events? Cheers Randyrat
  2. Hi Kev and welcome. Bit thin on the ground for practice areas in S Cumbria I'm afraid. (Legal ones) Have sent you PM Nick randyrat
  3. Yup....drill them out, remove all the minging slop and snot from inside, give it a real good scrub out with something like GUNK, then repack using loft insulation such as ROCKWOOL. New rivets to complete the job. Nice. (Don't do it on the wife's carpet though!) Randyrat
  4. Good heavens.....it's sooooo easy....... pull the bike up about a foot parallel to the rack. Stand at front of bike. Left hand, hold front brake on. Bend knees. Right hand, grab front wheel at lowest comfortable point. Stand up. Put front wheel in slot on rack. Walk to rear of bike. Bend knees. Reach over and grab far side of swing arm. Stand up. Place rear wheel in slot. Doddle. randyrat
  5. That was quick Phil..... Keep in touch...if you get any good places sorted drop me a PM Nick randyrat
  6. Nice one......don't be scared to enter a proper trial.....you'll learn a million times faster than just plodding about on your own.....and you'll find everyone willing to offer a bit of advice....before you teach yourself lots of bad habits...... randyrat
  7. Looks like this is really common...... If, as I did, you leave the bike standing for a few weeks (shame) then find you clutch is solidy locked in, don't despair......get on some muddy ground, start 'er up, bang it in gear....(hang on tight 'cos she'll be off!), then clunk up the gears to 4th, pull the clutch lever in, lean over the bars to keep the front down, and give it a fistfull. This should free up the plates. Don't make the mistake (as I did) of trying this on tarmac.....I still have the scars where the footpeg tried to eat my leg as the bike shot off down the road....(I didn't let it get away, but it would have been great on Youtube) randyrat
  8. Yup...easy one... Slack when bike on side stand should be 1.0 to 1.4 inches, measured at the midway point on the lower chain run (25 to 35mm in french!!!) Take the tensioner spring off first. Axle nut torque is 69Nm or 51 lbft. There you go... Randyrat (I have the owners manual...if you need any more settings drop me a PM)l
  9. Panic over chaps!!! After much swearing and farting about.....IT FITS!!!! The key seems to be to squash the front wheel into the left hand sliding door, compressing the forks a couple of inches, canting the bike over toward the drivers seat, and squidging the back tyre round the rear door pillar. A short bit of wood to support the headstock, and a couple of bungees and it's going nowhere......Genius! Thanks again everyone.......and yes...I do feel a bit of a t*t for not trying harder in the first place....... Randyrat
  10. Thanks for the replies chaps.....I'll just have a go and see what happens...... As far as getting the bike inside the Partner......it's the car version rather than the van version that I have......and it's not really a practical optiion to remove the rear seats every time I want to take the bike out.....bloody kids.....!!! Randyrat
  11. Hi there... anyone got a Peugeot Partner Combi and using a Dave Cooper Rack? Just checked the S value (nose weight) on my towbar and it's 70kg. My Mont 315 and rack weigh in at about 80kg. Has anyone had any problems using this set up? Don't want to knacker the Partner!!! (Although the mounts etc seem very beefy) Just a shame the bike wont go inside....or has anyone got any words of wisdom to sort out this one either? Many thanks... Randyrat
  12. Hi... Try this one out...a method from my younger biking days.... Put fresh brake fluid in a suitable squeezable container such as a washing up liquid bottle. (Dont shake it up because this will introduce air.) Using a short length of plastic hose between bottle and bleed nipple, "back fill" the system from the bottom upwards, venting excess fluid from the master cylinder until no more bubbles appear. The way this improves on the standard method is that air naturally gets expelled upwards, assisted by the flow of fresh fluid. The normal method of filling from above can sometimes result in air being trapped (i.e not rising to the top before the next squeeze on the lever). If the slave cylinder looks like it has trapped volume above the "nipple line" where air may collect, combine my method and the standard method - that way you will have removed air in both directions.... Worth a go...if you're at your wits end....hope it helps Nick
  13. Aaaah....of course Many thanks...I knew there had to be a sensible explanation...... Nick
  14. Hi Folks, I have a 2000 315r, and have a little question...... When the seat/mudguard unit is removed, there is a small notch on the upper part of the airbox. The corresponding part of the mudguard has a small fibre patch riveted in place to (partially) cover this notch. Although it seems to be original fit, I think its a bit "Heath Robinson", and will allow water from the back tyre to wash onto the top of the airbox. Can this be right? The previous owner has filled the notch with some hard set silicone....do I remove this, or is it a common modification? Any ideas? My natural instinct is to replace the silicone to reduce the risk of water getting onto the airbox.... Any help welcome... Nick
  15. Hi... thanks to all of you...bike now sorted Nick
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