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smudger984

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Everything posted by smudger984
 
 
  1. Hi There seems to be one for sale on www.westofenglandmc.co.uk, not sure if its a junior though......
  2. smudger984

    2012 model

    Any prices yet????
  3. smudger984

    2012 model

    No information yet??????
  4. Hi Check out www.westofenglandmc.co.uk and do there Summer Series great for getting into trials, only have 2 left now but there is one at the end of this month Saturday 27th August. Details will be up there soon. Cheers (and enjoy your bike!!!!)
  5. Well I went on the beta 125 and find it had better grip, but only in the sense that I think the power comes in not so fierce as a 250, for example I tried it on a really steep bank where you went up it and then nearly stopped and then carried on, I did it on my gasser and after the stop I found it spun more the the 125, I have calmed my 250 down and since riding the 125 I have geared my bike down and that has made a big difference, to be honest I think I would still like a 2011 gasser 250, as it feels as light as the beta 125, but then Istarted thinking how light would a 125 gasser feel?.....
  6. Thanks... I had a Rev3 200 and to be honest dont think I would want another one although it was a 2004, just in my head really dont want to go back to 200, I either want a 125 or 250, the Beta 125 felt nothing like my rev3 200, the beta if you didnt know it was a 125 you couldnt really tell, so much torque and just wondered if the gasser was the same. Cheers
  7. Hi I have a 250 2009 gasser and thinking of getting a new bike, I have ridden a Beta 125 2011 and really liked it, how does the gasser 125 compare to this?, please dont start a build comparison, as I have had both in the past and think they are the same, what I really want to know is how the little gasser rides especially with an adult on it, does it grip? does it sometimes feel under powered? etc... and if anybody can compare the 250 2011 to 125 that would be good.... Thanks....
  8. Also on another note about the txt 50 boy, if you lad or girl finds it a bit big there a four inch spacer in the top of the front forks that can be removed fairly easily and does lower the bike a fair amount
  9. Hi I have been through the same with my boys 50 txt, its a 2010 model. The things I have done are: Cut the airbox so the bike breathes better (free!!) Put a 60 tooth sprocket on the back, this is also worth while, and made the bike a lot slower, but I noticed that my boy was really jerky on it, reving it to make it go then suddenly it was taking off too quick.... I changed one of the 1.5mm clutch plates to a thicker 2mm (standard is 2 x 1.5mm and 1 x 2mm). This made the bike really smooth off the bottom, really made a difference to how he could ride a tight turn in a section.... but.....as he improved it became not enough power to get up a climb, I think this is why they rev so much before the clutch releases.... so I removed the thicker clutch plate and put back to standard. In the last few months we have been running a 9 tooth on the front, so its 9 on the front and 60 on the back, but to be honest my boy says this is the best so far.... due to it being geared down its slower so when it revs then the clutch disengages it dosent take off so quick. My boy can now ride in a section under control and even pop a little wheelie to get up on a rock, the only down side is it runs out of steam on a big climb, but to be honest this has only happened in between sections and he still made it to the top but his friend on a txt 50 as well seemed to go up it a bit quicker. Got to add though that 2nd gear is pretty useless still in any kind of section only good for riding in between sections and really wont pull him up any kind of hill unless hes flat out at the bottom. Overall now really happy with the bike.... hope this helps you out a bit...
  10. Hi I had all sorts of issues with my sons 50 boy, I stripped the carb, checked the reeds, put all back together and still the bog.... really could not figure it out, played with air screw etc........ then..... I changed the plug and all started running right !!!! I would definitely try a new plug as it did the trick for me although already seems to have gone through another one so just about to change the plug cap and put in one of the platinum plugs to see if it lasts a little longer. Cheers
  11. Thats interesting !!!! An update, my son rode the bike in a trial on Saturday. (and won his first trial !!!!). Ok the clutch still wants to drive when cold but once the bike warmed up it was fine and I think it did become easier to ride for my boy, the only issues are these: The bike does not want to change gear while started, I am guessing that the bike is still driving a little and the clutch still not engaged correctly to change gear, not a big issue just turn the bike off put in second when we had a long ride between sections which was only once per lap. Also the manual clutch is not doing anything or rather not engaging enough, it does still work but not enough for my boy to be able to use it but there is still some free play in the lever so I am going to adjust and test again. Although I think its better its still not perfect so would be interested in hearing what the bike does with 2 springs???? On another note the oil is still milky, I am going to change it again to make sure that there wasnt a bit of water left in it before but I am worried as my mate said that the water pump does not sit correctly in the housing when the bolt is tightned !!! My mate did think that the original leak was coming from the o rings you mentioned, as Gas Gas did not tell me I needed these as well, my mate put them back with special sealant, he does think that this should work but like I mentioned he is more concerned that the casing is not correct and when the water pump is tighted the water pump sits out of line.... Will just need to keep an eye on it and see what happens.... Oh the other thing it mentioned was that the water pump when he took it off didnt look like it was circulating the water correctly due to the water pump not sitting correctly, I believe this to be true as on Saturday was the first time I noticed that the fan came on. Cheers Smudger
  12. My mate did mine I'm not the best mechanic... From what he told me you need to take off the kickstart then the casing then remove the clutch and the water pump is behind the clutch, he did say it was quite fiddly. and you do need a really slim 15mm socket to get the clutch out, my mate ground down an old one but he said he had to really take a lot off to get it to slide in. I dont have any spec on the forks sorry...
  13. Heres what I got sent...... Clutch.pdf Clutch Parts Waterpump Waterpump Parts
  14. Sorry but cant help you with the forks, I have had mine apart but only too take out the top spacers so my son can touch the ground on it...... didnt really look at them very close, but I did ask Gas Gas UK about this before doing it and they didnt even know spacers were in the top ????? To be honest my son has a 2010 50 boy and really not that impressed, yes its a great bike to ride but the quality does worry me. Just put a new water pump seal in it (or rather a mate of mine did) and he commented that the water pump does not sit in correclty, pulls to one side when the bolt is done up, he thinks the casing is out of line. Hopefully hes sealed it enough with sealer and it may just work, but this bike should be built better than that, its still over £2,000 to buy !!!! Also I didnt like the way that the clutch disengages so late, so I also added the thicker 2mm clutch plate. On first test now the bike wants to move forward on tick over.....going to try it properly this weekend but I already have had this bike in more bits than more older Gas Gas 250 thats done more work and be ridden harder !!!! cheers Smudger
  15. Hi Do you still have a copy of the txt boy manual... you poseted this....

    check out this link here:

    www.freewebs.com/downloadshare/trials/gasgas-txt-boy.tif

    It's a copy of the WorkShop Service manual in .tif format. It won't be around for ever as I need the disk space, so be quick and grab a copy!

    Thanks

    Darren

  16. Hi I have just ordered the thicker clutch plate off GAS GAS UK so that the bike will disengage the clutch quicker, a 2mm instead of the normal 1.5mm and also ordered a new water pump seal as I'm losing water into the gearbox. I have asked them for some expanded diagrams but is there any pointers anyone can give me as well ...... I need to replace a leaking water seal and also fit the new clutch plate, but a little unsure exactly what to do and dont want to mess things (which I am quite good at!!) I do know that I will probably need to grind down a socket to get the clutch basket out. Any information or pointers would be greatly appreciated. My bike is a 2010 TXT50 Boy Many thanks Smudger
  17. Last report The bike did the trial and the colour of the plug is a nice tan colour !!! The bike sounded sweet all trial and did not pop or back fire once. The only disappointment is that the oil has gone milky again so I will need to strip and check the pump... Cheers Smudger
  18. I will check that today .... I probably need to repack the exhaust silencer as well as I reckon if that much was coming out the end it must have soaked the packing??? Thanks once again for all your comments much appreciated when pulling your hair out with a bad running bike (and believe me I havent got much of it left )
  19. I have checked the fuel and that seems fine could blow easily down the breather... The latest ..... Put a new plug in and after speaking to Gas Gas UK they recommened I run it at 100:1 50ml to 5 litres. So I have mixed up 5 litres with 50ml of oil and also changed the plug, the bog is almost gone and too be honest I think a fine tune tomorrow and the bike should be running nice.... Not very pleased with the plug cap it come off when taking out the old plug and the end is a wire coil (fits around the top of the plug) but the other end is just pointed like a nail and pushes into the HT lead, really thought it would have been made better than this. Can anyone recommened a better plug cap or are they all like this? Also little bit worried about only 50ml of oil in the petrol was running 75ml to 5 litres but I must admit lots of oil spat from the silencer and got all over the bike. Got a trial tomorrow and will take my petrol as well mixed at 75:1, I will check the plug mid trial and see what it looks like. Thanks Smudger
  20. I have checked the gap and also the spark but agree I will go and get another plug today and test... Thanks, I will let you know if it does work tonight. One other thing I did notice is that the water level seems to have dropped I have filled back up not much needed to be added but will keep an eye on that aswell as I am guessing a water leak somewhere may effect performance? Cheers Smudger
  21. Hi All I have a 2010 txt 50 boy. Last weekend while my boy was riding, he was going flat out up a hill and it started bogging and back firing and popping. Low - Middle revs was ok. So I have stripped the carb and used an airline on it, main jet is a 70. Checked fuel pipe not twisted Checked all electrics for dampness and all contacts correct Sprayed contact cleaner in behind the flywheel but everything seemed dry i.e. casing. Took off silencer and check for blockages Checked the reeds all ok Plug was looking a bit black but after clean does seem to be going a brown colour on the ceramic. But still when I put the bike on the stand and rev as quick as I can and let off it seems fine, but as soon as its 3/4 it starts bogging like fuel starvation or when a bike is running too rich. I am not really much of a mechanic, but I dont think I have done anything silly, and the bike has only really done about 6 hours work. Any thoughts would be really appreciated !!!!!! Cheers Smudger
  22. With your bike if you run on a stand and rev it wide open does it bog slightly? I have cleaned the carb (its got a 70 main jet in it) cant think what else to do..... I have played with the air/mixture screw but this does not make any difference, sometimes when holding it wide open it will also pop and backfire, riding it under load it does sound ok but I still think if my boy tries to go uphill wide open it will back fire like it was last weekend. I have also checked all electrics and they are also dry and look in good condition, the bike is 2010 and only done 4 - 6 hours??? Any ideas or help would be greatly aprreciated!!
  23. Hi All At present I run my boys bike at 75ml of oil to 5 litres which works out at around 66:1. I run this the same as my txt 250. I do get oil splats coming out the exchaust, GAS GAS Uk said that they run it 50ml of oil to 5 litres. What oil amount does anyone else use? Thanks Smudger
  24. Hi Juanroberts I have completed both the front and back suspension adjustments.... Took the spacers out of the forks and set the rear to the softest setting. My thoughts .... The bike sits much lower but dosent look silly and my boys feet are now firmly planted and the bike looks the right size !!!! The front forks were easy to do but the rear suspension was a bit harder, we had a proper spring compressor tool but still had to also use a vice to get the spring to compress enough to move the circlip, glad I've got mates who know what they are doing. Thanks once again for the advice Cheers Smudger
 
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