I think you might be confusing free play with lever travel. Free play is measured with the lever at rest. It’s the free movement before you start to push the mc plunger in. You can then adjust how the lever feels in its arc of travel. Then readjust free play if required.
On bikes with worn lever pivots this can be more tricky to get right. Treat older/worn bikes to new levers. It feels much nicer, less vibes, easy to adjust. Keep the old levers as spares.
Surely this is new bike time! Yours is wrecked and uneconomical to repair, if new bike is a bit pricey you can swap it with my immaculate 2012 300 Evo with no bash marks. I’ll take away the battered 2018 and even collect for free!
Depending where you are located give freeriding/exploration. Getting access to places where people can’t even walk is a great challenge and good fun. Nobody to give you a five either.
I’ve slowly started getting back into trials. I’m now keen to have a bash at some local events but I’m wondering what bigger events are out there I should look at?
The Scott and Jocko 6 are two I’d really like to try at some point. I’ll only ever be clubman class at best. Happy to try anything though as long as it involves lots of riding!
That’s what I found. I was soon blasting up ledges twice the size of what I was finding impossible with the wrong throttle and gearing. Just great fun. No scary things. All feels under control now too.
I got out this afternoon to try the Evo 300 with slow black throttle (from white fast tube) and 10/42 gearing (from 11/41).
What a massive difference! I’ve been able to ride everything normally and no accidents, flips or unwanted pain/chaos.
It’s now a keeper! I certainly don’t need the angry map. 1st is really controllable and slow. 3rd is great when you need punch/spurt to blast up something.
I was thinking 20cc can’t be that different but on the white throttle I was struggling. Each ride ended up needing new bike parts and me new body parts. It was like I’d never ridden a bike before. I was trying things and not getting the reaction I requested. It went hay wire. A very different thing on the black throttle. Far smoother and predictable.
Im surprised at how much more subtle and easy to ride (and lighter) the Ossa was than the Evo is. I am enjoying the Evo now though and you can buy parts if/when you do break it.
Same here. I bought the 300 thinking it’d be similar to the ossa. Nope.
Its definitely better now I’ve softened it but I know I’ll be looking for another 200 in the background. I’ll try and get a ride on a 125 also. I’m after improving my riding skills/technique not just putting about. That won’t happen on a bike you don’t feel at one with.
I am happy to leave 300s to the more skilled big boys.
I got an Evo 300 after an Ossa TR280i. I didn’t realise how good the Ossa was until I tried the Evo.
I then discovered it was jetted super lean and with a white (fast) throttle tube and wrong gearing (11/41). After making some tweaks it’s a whole nicer. Not done gearing yet but that’ll be 10/42. I’ve moved the needle clip to 4 from 3.
Might be worth checking some of these points on yours?
Mine did the same the other day. Bike lept away and went sky high on the revs. Even the lanyard didn’t stop it! Thumb up the pipe did. Eventually. Scary moment. I’ve not had it happen before. Throttle cable now cable tied in place! New woodruff key coming. I hope I’m lucky too and it lives to smash me up again!
Does anyone else run Exol Optima Racing 2t full synt oil? UK made. £25 for 5 litres. Runs super clean. Mixes easy. My Ossa has been on it it’s whole life. No issues. I use it in enduro bikes to.
Definitely no wear in the recess for the spring loop section nor the rubber plug bit. It all looks new. I’ve ordered up a new gasket too so will re visit this and check and double check. I was very happy and excited when it first sprung back! I love riding it so would just like everything perfect (ish).
The he plot thickens. Today I removed the case. It’s definitely been off before as the gaskets damaged and a dab of sealant had been used to seal it.
I followed the guide. Rotated kicker anti clockwise till roughly lined up and gently eased into place. First kick it returned perfectly, same for second (started!!!) and third but on the fourth it went slack again and with each kick got slacker till it hovers just above the foot peg instead of returning. What’s going on? Have I missed the recess again and slowly but surely tension is lost or do I have another issue? All seems to work fine at first though so I’m confident the spring itself is not the problem.
Thanks. I saw that and that’s what prompted my original question. It’s definitely looking like it was assembled wrong. It’s a good starter though, just annoying it stays down- my only gripe (apart from being so rare!). If it ends up easier to start I’ll be well chuffed.
I’ve also read you can remove the cover to drain oil but I’ve never done this. I’ve always got plenty out? I’m guessing the previous owner did remove the cover though and assembled it wrong.
Anyone know if a 125 Evo can be changed into a 200?
Is it possible to basically put a 200 cylinder, piston and head onto the 125 or is the rod, crank and cases vastly different to the 125 preventing this?
Clutch lever free play
in Beta
Posted · Edited by pindie
I think you might be confusing free play with lever travel. Free play is measured with the lever at rest. It’s the free movement before you start to push the mc plunger in. You can then adjust how the lever feels in its arc of travel. Then readjust free play if required.
On bikes with worn lever pivots this can be more tricky to get right. Treat older/worn bikes to new levers. It feels much nicer, less vibes, easy to adjust. Keep the old levers as spares.