It don't take much to knock the top of their perch through injury. They ride at such a high level even minor things are a big deal. I still think they would whup my ass even if they only had one arm and one leg though.
I bet the grip or the tube if full of gunge and grit. It is rare for the spring in the carb itself is missing or damaged.
I'd remove the twist grip from the bar and clean everything really well. You should not need to oil the oil/bar interface but a dab of 3 in one does help or if you feel flash get some graphite powder. It will be slick as you like then but it won't attract dirt.
Whilst the throttle tube is off the bars and the cable nipple is free pull the throttle cable nipple with your fingers. Is should pull easily and snap back in. If not the cable may be goosed and full of muck too. You now have two options. Replace the throttle cable or remove the existing cable and flush it and lube it through. I would just get a new one. Lastly you have the throttle slide in the carb itself. If the air filters been neglected (check this is clean and oiled properly) crap will have got through and that could be making the slide stick. If so a good clean will sort that out.
I'm thinking throttle tube or cable are the most likely culprits though as they are often neglected and overlooked (I change cables every couple of years and graphite powder my throttle tube when I do my gearbox oil). It should be light and slick not heavy and hard to roll on the bar. Once this is sorted I doubt you will need a mincers slow tube as you will be able to control it no probs.
I find it weird that Beta put flywheel weights on but leave the tube standard. Personally I think you need a quick throttle (I'm no splatterer either) and a peppy motor as you can learn to control this. You cant learn to make a slow throttle faster if you understand what I mean. I'd check to see if it has a flywheel weight fitted. Its a two minute job to remove or replace and it may make it feel better full stop. It did when I removed mine.
I use 60:1 cos 80: scares me when transiting to sections etc. 16ml oil per litre of petrol is 60:1. Always make sure its good quality branded oil such as Castrol and Putoline fully synth (others are available).
Use a pin or clean blade to lift the edge and then remove the harder thicker skin. If you ride a long time with the hard bits you can get deep blisters beneath them. Not nice!
My other tip is get over yourself and grow a pair. This will get you around the issue in the first place.
My dad alway made me ride in big gardening gloves 30 odd years ago. This was to make sure I appreciated the good stuff once I could afford them. I only buy the thinnest and best fit gloves I can afford these days as comfort is everything at this age.
I second the new seal on the screw. If it don't solve the issue I'd look at needles etc as this is where the work is done once of the pilot (throttle closed to 1/8th open) turns into the needle jet at larger throttle openings. Getting the transition right between these two is key for four strokes or you'll get spitting and popping with flat spots and coughs. There is a online guide to set up 4t engines. I think it may be on the Scott Summers website. It is for XR600s but the principles are the same for all carbed bikes.
I wouldn't worry to much about the wide open throttle settings unless you do a lot of road work etc.
It sounds to me like its not going into gear fully before winding on the juice.
On my Gasser (which the gear box exploded) there was a tension spring which could be adjusted. Could it be something like this?
It could just be newness and everything is a tad tight. It may improve with use. I'd try holding the lever up into second for a millisecond longer to see if that helps. If it does it will improve with wear. Better to have a tight box that loosens off to perfection than a loose box that is sloppy as hell in a year or two.
Try using a litre on Putoline Nano Trans gear oil before doing the clutch mod.
Its expensive oil but it solved my dragging and sticking clutch and £25.00 is better in my opinion that all that filing.
Change your Gbox oil for 450ml of Nano. Use this oil until it starts to go cloudy in the sight glass (it took nearly 50 hours of riding on my 200) - the clutch will most likely still drag at this point due to contamination etc but have patience.
Once the first nano oil goes cloudy change the nano oil again for a fresh 450ml. This second batch should feel way better and the clutch will continue to improve.
Before using nano I thought my clutch was on its way out but it felt ace once using the nano. I needed to change the oil recently but my local man had no nano so I bought a litre of Motorex light gear oil. I've used this oil so I could order in the nano but you can feel straight away that its no way as slick as the nano. I have a nice new bottle of the shelf though which will go in soon.
I think everyone is worried. The lad is fast and seems to be able to get away with it. The new Bridgestones seems to have stopped the rookies getting flung into the tarmac at 120 mph now so that confidence knocking bash hopefully won't come- yet!
Its mad when you think no matter how hard you try you would still have to beat two "aliens" to get on the top step. As there are three this year on competitive bikes its going to be tough. If he does beat them regularly what will they call the "alien" slayer?
Stoner could but he is a one off miracle with oodles of raw talent. If Stoner had the grace and charisma of Rossi he'd still be at the top of moto gp for many years. I do think if he came back next year he would carry on winning.
He didn't get the nick name "Stoner the moaner" for nothing though. He was awesome in the last couple of years on the Honda ( but still moaned though).
I really think Dovizioso has his work cut out not to suffer the fate of the others on the Ducati. Hopefully the Audi dollars will help and they will finally crack the nut. When they do the japs won't like it one bit. It could happen by the end of this year....
At the moment though it's just good to see Rossi having a long career in a young (sub 30) mans game. He has no reason to race other than loving the racing. Nothing to prove and needs no more cash. I would do exactly the same if it were me.
That's why I roll around on the floor next to my bike every weekend when I'm considered a grown up (not by the wife though).
Same here housape. I watch and think how the hell did they do that! The good guys don't even seem to have to try. Even worse when they are 70 and wearing a cap and willies along with smoking a pipe and chatting as they clean the section. REEEspekt!
If I were you I'd get a ride on both 250s and also find a 200. Just a 2 min spin around a car park will let you know which one feels nicest. That's the one to buy.
All trials bikes have "issues" compared to MX bikes as they are just not as well finished/tested before release for some weird reason. Good maintenance resolves 99% of issues though and the remaining 1% is all common fixes which everyone has so no big drama. These can range from stator on the beta (cheap to fix for good) or a gear box on the Gassers (not cheap to fix). I can't comment on the Sherca's er sorry Shercos as I've not owned one but they look nice and from what I have seen are good at finding traction. This might be handy when you need to go back and pick up the bits that have fallen off (joking).
Buy the best condition best feeling model you can. I went from 520 KTMs, 450 MX and an XR 600 to a GG300 Raga. It was an animal that I was glad to see the back of (inside actually as the gear box exploded on me and trashed the cases when the shift drum split). I then rode a 200 beta rev 3, paid for it and have never looked back. It flatters the rider without punishing mistakes.
Because its that but safer people are happy to let you taste the better machine. It's what keeps the sport alive.
I too have ridden several bike sports and trials is just an excellent friendly world of fun. All the classes are great but I'm a biffer in sportsman as that's hard enough!
I can't comment on the earlier/later betas as I've not owned one. I do agree with what chuck says though.
People always blame the kit and never their maintenance regime. Get the new springs and do the oil and you'll be sweet.
I like 5wt oil as I like supple suspension. I think is one area where people get confused. A trials bike is supposed to be supple as it does not do whoops!
Well sprung and soft is the way ahead. Use damping clickers to slow things down. Just.
On a trials bike you will get condensation in the cases anyway as you won't get the gear box hot enough to evaporate the moisture. If your using ATF I'd get a big container of the stuff and change it after each ride three times to flush the cases.
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in General Trials Talk
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Beta can also be pronounced Better for a good reason. They are.