Tried to post , must have screwed it up. Post under beta may help get more suggestions. Check the chock- when you pull it out you will feel it click twice when you go to close it. in the Middle position it will cause the bike to run rich. When you clean the air filter lightly oil it , to much oil could cause it to run rick also. I have had three of the beta 4t's very nice bike. Keep us posted on what you find.
Toothandnail you are correct in the laptop based program but the Ossa is not that way. If you have any questions call Adrian at Lewisport and he will be happy to answer your questions or Mike at the Tryals shop, both are excellent. I have had the oppertunity here in Oklahoma to look over one very closely.
My understanding is a customer can't write there own map. It takes a diagnostic tool, it will tell you a few things, let you do some stuff, the importer can get maps from the factory.
The 2012 will be here soon I here. Parts are available from the couple of dealers here in the States or Canada. Info is available from the importers site for the bike and dealers.
Springs for the Beta are available in the U.S. for a round what has been said and those of us on the larger side do need them.
Billy and those who said oil wt. effects compression and rebound yes very much so. Like billy said try both 2.5 and 10-15 wt. oils and go ride the same sections.
I have worked on Cody's bike and what American Beta is telling you is true.
Billy due to work I can only get off one day of Muensters 2 day so I can't justify the 5 hour drive one day. But would very much like to ride with you guys down in Texas.
Heavier springs are available for the front and rear and help tremendously for larger riders. Yes, I do fit into this category and found that adding the springs was the way to go. Trainer and Copie you two don't fall any where near this. Copie you can now have a real beer! Nice reading these post.
Have a stock one, but I think you want one you can reach with your fingers. I believe the yamaha 660 uses the same type carb if you do a little searching you can locate the longer fuel screw or screws as that yamaha uses 2 carbs. The tip is a little shorter but works fine that is what I'm using. Like you are finding here in the U.S. is no jitsie fuel screws.
Just mounted one to a 2011 4t. Fuel line uses T-fitting in the middle of the original fuel line. Bracket that comes off the seat mounts to the air box bracket with a dished washer and longer bolt. The front of the tank has two stand off studs and uses a long o-ring to loop under the front of the fuel tank and back to the stand off studs. Mine come with a o-ring that was way to short to even be used. should be close to what you have.
For those who wasn't there in the bfe dust bowl ! Sid did pull money out of his pocket or sorry envelops for the pros for Saturday, don't know about Sunday ! I was standing next to him and his wife Donna at the trophy presentation. So from me Thanks Sid & Donna.
I have one of the stock screws on the bench if you would like a photo of what a stock screw looks like to help in knowing if you want to drill it out or leave it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a photo in a day or two.
Been taking apart my 08 rev 4 carb. It's clearly never been touched and the bike hasn't had a great deal of use. But every screw on the carb is seized / over tightened by the factory. I had to use all the tricks in the book to get the screws out of the float bowl and diaphragm top. I'm not being a retard, these screws were jammed solid and had clearly been over tightened by whoever had assembled the carb. I have replaced these and greased the threads with nice stainless allen bolts so hopefully problem solved. But the airscrew just disolved when I put the screw driver on it. The screwdriver fitted perfectly. It too is jammed / seized in it's thread. I took the carb to a motorcycle engineer (I'm very lucky as he has a workshop a few streets away) and he said he had tried everything bar drilling and couldnt get it out. he didn't want to drill it and use a bolt extractor as I had said at least it is siezed in it's right spot and drilling it and getting it wrong could end up with me buying a new carb body. I'm gutted as I was going to fit one of those nify jitsie air screws. Has anybody else had difficulty with this carb ? I have to reluctantly accept it as jammed or risk drilling and ruining carb body which I can't afford to do.
I have a 2010 and a 2011 2.9 sherco. Tried a one tooth smaller counter for 5 minutes and took it off, didn't like it. Changing to a black throttle should slow it down plenty. The new motor runs really well ! Gobs of traction for me. It does fall a little short in the turning department but that will be fixed next week.
On the NATC web site under rules it says on line 1. that a dab is a point and directly under it on line 2. it says rotation in a point. So it makes it unclear. You can't have rotation with out having a foot down. Sounds like a two points the way it's written, if the intent is a one then wouldn't it need to be written more clearly ?
. Fault Definitions:
1. Footing - any contact providing support between any part of the rider
I can't speak for the 09 but I can say that the 2010 I have has been a fantastic bike for me. I put some short thin plastic pipe on the frame were the lower triple clamp comes into contact with the frame. That's the only sour spot I found on the bike. The 2011 has a plastic piece there that will fit the 2010. Try to ride both the 2009 & 2010 and buy what you like.
Check with Adrian at Lewisport and see if he has a spare crate you can from him. Forward air works pretty good- here you have to take the crate to them and it has to be picked up at the doc.
Squish Clearance for Rev3?
in Beta
Posted
Same motor.