I’ve used a Witter detachable flange with a DC rack (photo below) for 4 years on my Discovery Sport and had no problems.
I have just changed my car and had a witter detachable tow bar fitted to my new car today. I can continue to use the detachable flange with the new car.
A long shot but just wondering if the above bike is still about or owned by anyone on here. It was my first trial bike that I bought off Carl Baker and rode in Manchester 17, Macc & Hyde trials in the very early 80’s. TIA.
I would says its down to personal choice and funds. I have a trailer but have started to use a rack on the back of the car. Ideally I would prefer a van, its secure, all your kit, tools and the bike/bikes are out of sight and it doubles up as a changing room but I cant justify the cost of buying and running another vehicle.
RPA in Bristol quote from £75 (small frame) upto £125 (large frame), they recently stripped and coated my Z650 frame and I can highly recommend them. I have also used Redditch Shotblasting with very good results and service.
Managed to launch myself over the handlebars on Sunday and landed on my napper. I felt my head hit a rock pretty hard but it wasnt until I took my helmet off and saw the damage that I realised how hard the impact was. Out come - one knackered brand new helmet but it did its job as I sustained no injury other than aching neck muscles. Money very well spent and replacement Jitsie ordered!
Had a great day today, my first trial for a good too many years. Some good bits, some not so good bits ( might need a new helmet!) but finished with a smile and looking forward to my next outing. Thanks to all at Stroud MCC.
I was thinking Gas Gas TXT, Beta Rev3, Sherco or Mont 315. 200 or 250cc 2 stroke. Slightly concerned with the Gas Gas with the factory going under and spares availability. Any advice would be greatly received.
Thanks for the replies and advice fella's. I will take a punt on the HT Coil and stator on ebay, if that improves/sorts it then I will invest in a new HT coil and get the stator sent away for a refurb as the 2nd hand parts are nearly as old as my originals.
I doubt it will be the carb as I am running a new mikuni, which I have stripped and cleaned just to eliminate that from the problem. I hope it isn't the crank seals as the engine was stripped and all bearings and seals were replaced but if the above doesn't work then I may have to revisit the bottom end.
I have replaced the plug, cap, points, condensor and renewed all the wires from the stator. The bike did run nicely but it has developed a problem which has turned into the bike not starting at all now. So my attention has been drawn to replacing all the remaining electrical parts and so changing to electronic ignition.
I'm having a bit of an issue with the clutch on my 200. I have stripped the engine to replace a gear in the gearbox and after rebuilding it the clutch will not disengage, the clutch action works (the plates seperate when the lever is pulled in) but the drive is not disengaged. I stripped it again to check all the parts where present and in the correct location and when I rebuilt it I tightened the boss nut up allowing the boss to turn independantly of the basket. When I came to start the bike the bike there was very little resistance on the kick start lever, it felt like the clutch was slipping, so I removed the clutch casing and found that the plates were not pressed together. I pinched up the boss nut and I'm back to square one - bike kicks over but clutch won't disengage.
The clutch/kick start all worked fine before I got my grubby mits on it!!! so if anyone can shed some light on what I am doing wrong I would appreciate it.
I took these off my 200 and was wondering if anyone can tell me what make they are? Also where could I get new mounting bushes from. A previous owner has inserted what looks like 15mm copper piping as the collet.
Thanks for the replies fella's. I have found a local engineer who is going to have a look at it and I will speak to Bill Pye about a new/recon one. Treevor I am a little wary about taking a hammer to the flywheel as the crankshaft is balanced and is sitting in bearings that are housed in alloy, but thanks any way.
Right then, I have replaced the clutch cover and I need to know when and how tight to do up the bolt passing throught the case below the kick start
My other problem is to do with the thread on the flywheel side of the crank shaft. It has seen better days, can it be repaired or am I looking for another crankshaft?
Witter Detachable Flange Towbar with DC Rack
in Trials Transport
Posted
I’ve used a Witter detachable flange with a DC rack (photo below) for 4 years on my Discovery Sport and had no problems.
I have just changed my car and had a witter detachable tow bar fitted to my new car today. I can continue to use the detachable flange with the new car.