Well, as the title really, I've been wondering about workshop necessities...
What do I need? Fed up of borrowing the old mans tools... what do I need in the way of tools, oils, lubricants, nuts, bolts, washers and anything else?
I know the important stuff but I'm interested to what you all reccomend? Please give a quality make/brand but good value, dont want them breaking or not doing there job properly, so yeah, shoot away people...
Funny that! I was just about to post up a topic about the disgraceful section marking in some places... round here the few club trials I've gone and watched are normally quite well marked but only last weekend I was staying down in Wales, I had the bike with me and a few mates convinced me to come along to the trial, was an open one and I have to say the marking was shocking, the markers were all different, some were old flags on bamboo, some were plastic card, some were laminated sheets of coloured A4 and the worst end markers ive ever seen, guess what they were? Two old jumpers! Now thats the state of them but even the posistioning was crap... the markers were in places that they were bound to get hit by everything, it was as if they had to be there whereas an inch or two either side wouldn't of changed the section but the markers would of been out of harms way.
I know there's not much money in the sport but markers are a nescessity.. why stinge when you can make the trial look a lot more professional and that way help your club gain an undecided member or two, even when the clubs do spend money on decent markers they dont really try and preserve them, like I mentioned if they moved them an inch or two they would of been out of harms way this keeping the markers in good condition and keeping the clubs overheads down!
Make sure if your doing a 50/50 you use distilled water rather than tap water! Stops corrosion or cavitation (cant remember which one but you dont want either happening!
As in, fully disengaged no matter on lever posistion? or fully engaged.
If fully disengaged
Try changing the oil, leaving her to warm up properly and then go up to 5th gear and then back down through the box quickly with the clutch held fully in, should release quickly enough... Also, try fiddling with the lever adjuster, is your push rod going right into the master cylinder? is there a push rod? I've lost many of these over time, could of dropped out when dropped or knocked in the shed!
If fully engaged adjust your levers first, like, your not going anywhere
Adjust your levers, this can be done by using the wee nut on the lever blade as said above. Adjust that fully out, if still nothing try new oil! Listen out for noises whilst engines running, could it be transmission?
Put it in gear and see if you can turn it over moving the back wheel, if it moves may be the kick start mechanism only.
Correct me if im wrong but this is a bad thing to do? if it isnt the kickstart mechanism and it does budge the piston, if the pistons been stuck due to a peice of grit or dirt ect it will only score the cylinder more? Which does get very expensive, ive learnt from a dodgy beta
Just try those for now, do them in that order too one by one till your power is coming as you like it, I personally reckon the sprocket makes the biggest difference, doesnt mean fiddling with the fiddly bits You still have the same power, same delivery but just not as torquey!
Yeah, as above, check for scoring inside and on the rings, if you cant see anything give the cylinder a few taps with a rubber mallet, even amount of hits from each side preferably!
Try kicking it over gently, if this has unstuck it dont ride it just yet, Check the reed intake rubber sleeve for leaks or splits... make sure all your carb settings and fuel to oil ratio, maybe your engine wasnt getting enough lubrication? Test your fan also, search up on here on how to test the fan, more likely to find something about this in the sherco section
Your engine may of been overheating? Doubtful though, how long did it take you to clean the carb, was the bike still hot when you put it back together? Before starting pour about 10 ml of 2 stroke oil down into the cylinder, do this when piston is at the bottom of its movement! Kick her up and sit watching it for about 10 minutes, may be a bit of a bitch to start with the extra oil. Observe for nasty sounds, like knocking and things that sound wrong! Give it a ride keeping the power low for about an hour, if all seems fine return to normal!
Whip the cylinder off and check for any scoring on the piston, rings or cylinder... If theres nothing visible give the crank rod a wobble, should be pretty much solid side to side, if loose side to side its probably a bearing. If not loose grab the kickstart and very gently kick it over twice! Will it kick over atall now? if not probably a bent crank rod or something jamming inside the crank itself, maybe a peice of the bearing shot or a problem with the... if it moves round make sure its doing the full motion, if you are not sure about the correct motion the bottom of the crank rod should go clockwise (looking from the left of the bike) down and round!
If this does not happen check flywheel/stator this could be stuck solid and causing your problems? whip them off and try turning the kicker again, does the crank turn now? if not, shove them back on, Take the clutch housing off, remove the plates and check for anything jamming up between the inner and outer! still nothing? Then theres either something jamming the gears or kicker assembly or something broken in there... if its none of these im stumped
Give it a quick bleed, only takes 5 minutes if done properly, if this doesnt help try adjusting the levers, the push rod into the master cylinder adjusts slightly, not sure how on the scorpa but if its an ajp it should just involve a spanner on the wee nut by the lever blade!!
As you said it was dropped on the right side, front brake lever, just make the nut hasnt been knocked loose!
I was fiddling the other day and topped up my coolant with river water, ran it through a filter though! On startup I noticed that the water coming from the overflow turned cloudy when hitting the exhaust, what causes this and is it ok?
Hey, just changed my fork seals, decided to change the oil whilst I was at it.... Now, Ive read various posts on here about oil amounts, measures ect..
Im more of a bouncy, hoppy rider than just throttle and wish for the best.... Ive read that there should be between 300 and 330 each leg but one leg had a LOT more than the other, the spring side.... Although ive seen 300-330 ml per leg ive seen 120 mm from the top of compressed fork. Basically, im confused and have very little idea of which way to do it, anybody able to post a full guide including the bleeding... some say compress the fork whilst filling, others dont! Im in a massive tangle!
Ive just never sat around and thought about it. The dealer just told me to use 80ml per 4.9 litre. Used it ever since but never really had a strong tickover!
The classifieds is a completely different section requiring a seperate registration!
one by one till your power is coming as you like it, I personally reckon the sprocket makes the biggest difference, doesnt mean fiddling with the fiddly bits 
Workshop Necessities
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Very similar to my thoughts....... Better get saving then
Anybody got anything to add?