You'll want a decent waterproof jacket, I bought a clice neoprene jacket mid week and was very very glad I did after using a tired jacket earlier in the week.
Waterproof trousers are necessary, either splash out and get some non tearing ones and have them over your boots or get a couple of cheap pairs and put them inside your boots and duc tape at the top of your boots.
Waterproof socks.
Get a neck warmer or two like the buff ones, very useful.
Get some heated grips fitted, that's one thing I really missed last year!
Get some goggles and experiment before hand with treating the surface so they don't mist up etc.
It's a good idea to plan ahead with your hotel/b+b about sorting your gear out after you get back so you are prepared and they know what's coming.
Good luck, I bet this year now I'm not riding it'll be red hot and next year when I ride it'll be peeing it down no doubt!
I had the same problem with my current 2012 bike, the casing for the clutch side got bent. I pressed it back with help from Chris at splatshop. Did the Scottish on it a week later and it has been fine ever since.
I was really suprised by how hard the rubber was inbetween.
If I'm right I do believe that ajp went bust a year or so ago hence gas gas and sherco using different brakes which weren't quite as good. However I think ajp got bought out and so are back and cause they make better brakes they'll be going back on the 2014 st bikes.
I recommend having it powder coated. It's a much tougher finish so lasts better. My previous frame I painted range rover red and 2 paked the forks. It probably looked better at first but didn't stand up too long compared to powdercoating.
I have a 2010 300 having changed straight from a 2010 125 when I was old enough. I have never found it a handlful even with the ti pipe and fancy dellorto carb. 95% of the time the extra power over say a 290 is probably not necessary especially not for me weighing in at about ten and half stone but it is nice to know you have that power on tap.
Overall I think it's been a great bike and wouldn't hesitate to have another 300 but ill be changing to a 290 in the next week or so but that's not because I didn't like the 300 but due to being after a newer bike and this one was available.
I've had two 2010 bikes (125 and 300) and they've been been perfectly fine apart from when I bash them (a lot ha) or don't keep up with typical sort of maintenance.
It's insured now with msm, mot later on. I have a v55/5 I've half filled in but pretty certain I can't fill most of it cause trials manufacturers don't seem to release much information?
Will probably have it all sent off at the dvla tomorrow fingers crossed.
As above i've escaped the new rules. I can ride anything up to 46bhp i think and a certain power to weight so I should be fine with that seeing as a trials bike has roughly 20ish bhp?
I can't find a trials designated bit on Carole Nash's site, I'm guessing you rang? (Bit late to give them a ring now)
I've finally passed my test today and am doing the Jack Wood trial on the 31st (road work involved). I've done a bit of research and people seem to be getting charged roughly £100-£200 for insurance and the general opinion is that msm seem to be best seeing as they have a propper trials bike policy.
Now I got a quote from them for £210ish third party and £270ish third party fire and theft. I know that's more than others I have seen but I am only 19. So that sounds kind of reasonable at my age? Other quotes I've got have been roughly £600 to £3000 for one and some refuse to acknowledge that sherco trials bikes exist
I'm registering my bike for the first time too so got that to do, it is 3 years old on the 23rd of march so I don't need an MOT til then i think? Once I am insured I need a v55/5 filling out and sending off and pay for tax at the same time? Then unless they come check my bike it is a case of Bob's your uncle and Fanny's your aunt?
I just remembered when I had that design air box when cleaning the bike I would take off the mudguard and the little plastic air filter surround out then replace it but put a plastic bag over the air filter and then replace the surround. It did a good job of keeping water out of the air box while cleaning.
As far as spark plugs go the one you got out is the common replacement and well up to the job. Iridium tipped or platinum tipped ones are slightly better but probably not worth the difference.
With 125s it is tight with the float bowl and the cases. Best tip is to undo the two jubilee clips then rotate the carb round and undo the bando bolt with a 14mm spanner to drain it.
As you have done you can go a bit mad with the silicon but with that design it is inevitable that some water/muck will get in.
A few years ago I had danger uk i think make up some custom ones for my 08. Cheaper than standard and of coarse different and same sort of quality
There is a company on eBay that sell sticker kits cheap, usually copies and they aren't much good at all. It could be you have a set of these on your bike?
Unfortunately I don't have any close ups. The welds aren't pretty anyway. I kind of just left them rather than grinding them down. Then covered that area with a 2011 frame sticker.
I'm not quite sure what you mean cope? I'm not satisfied with the routing of the throttle cable. On full left lock it picks up a very small amount of revs. I can't really remember how it was originally it could be I need a tad more slack in the cable.
The colour is range rover Firenze red. Lovely deep metallic colour.
Something to do with the throttle cable is likely to be the cause as you say. Has any work been done recently on the bike that could effect anything? Make sure the throttle assembly on the bars hasn't been forced a bit along the bars. Can cause friction between the throttle tube and bars and give a sticky throttle. While your checking its worth cleaning out the throttle body.
Also for what they cost it is probably worth replacing the throttle cable, they can wear over time and when not cleaned and lubed they can get spots where friction can cause them to not run smooth.
Would be a good idea to strip the carb and take out all the jets and choke assembly and give them a clean and blow out with an air line.
Also have a check of the manifolds to make sure there are no air leaks at all.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head, it's getting late
Is it possible just to remove the map switch? Mine is smashed to bits and I prefer a clean bar look. I never really notice a difference and always run it on the softer map 2.
Is there any way to take it off and manually make a change, I.e. if its a dry summer day if I wanted to with some tinkering I could change it and run it on map one for the day?
Wetherby Motor Club Contact
in UK Trials Talk
Posted
Does anybody have contact details for Wetherby club?
Probably best to pm me them if you don't mind. It seems I don't exist from the recent trials results.
Cheers.