True, but if you get some taller bars and roll them forward they turn quick enough. As for the rear engine mount there must be a reason why gollner used the same style mount as the stock frame. Im just stating my opinion, the stock bike works well for me so i don't intend to step on anybody elses toes by saying that my way is the right way.
The forks on my KT (in the distant past) were unpredictable to say the least. Slow tight turns were ok, everything else was "interesting"
Having said that, I liked the bike and would have another one to play with.
Never did like silentbloc bushes. Although they have some inherent springing characteristics they tend to slip a little on the bore and then work against you. Bushes are better IMO but not better than the more modern methods, but you dont have to take my word for it!
Silentbloc's are also bitches to remove!
Wayne....
Hi Wayne
Had no major difficulties getting the old bushes out, geting them in was a pure pain in the ar
My B40 currently has silent block swinging arm bushes. I've felt for a while that the rear suspension has a slightly dead feel to it, and wonder if replacing the bushes with same would improve it. Alternativly, having some bronze (?) bushes made up with grease nipples. Any thoughts / experience ?
Thanks for the suggestion. I have sent two e-mails to them but they don't seem to be getting through. I will keep trying, maybe their system is down for some reason
B40RT i have do doubt as to your dogs security skills however i bet your security alarm has never eaten 2 inner tubes or had relieved itself in the workshop (on a regular basis).. regarding the rear silencer i have the original, but the WES sounds fantastic. I also have the original sales brochure / tool kit and owners manual.
Your right, he never has relieved himself in the workshop. However, he has eaten two gear lever knobs (oo er) in the car along with the hand brake cover, the indicator stalk and a rear seat belt. I'm thinking on fitting a WES to dog.
Just checked the writing on the shocks and it looks ok however if someone can confirm this it woud be greatly appreciated - and yes that is a Jack Russel and if anyone has an original set of handelbars the dog is yours ...
My dog is better than a burglar alarm, would'nt swap him even for original bars.
Put the top nuts on with the legs fully extended..
What i am saying is that you can use the oil level to fine tune the spring rate of the fork assembly.
Not knowing the forks you are using, i imagine that you will need say 150 ml of oil to get the damping mechanism working, adding more oil will make the spring rate stiffer and therefore reduce sag.
Ignoring the fork springs, If for example you have say 6 inches of air gap with the forks fully extended, compressing the forks by 3 inch would compress the air gap by 50% and double the pressure and therefore force inside the forks.
If you then added more oil to reduce the air gap to four inches, compressing the forks by the same 3 inch would compress the air gap by 75% and triple the pressure and force inside the forks.
This is why some forks have schrader valves built in, to enable the spring rate to be fine tuned by adding air.
For most trials applications a long slow spring rate is preferred, for instance MP forks are vented to prevent the air acting as a spring.
I would reduce the level by say 5 ml at a time until it stops topping out.
Now I'm really confused. What I though you were saying was compress the forks with the caps off, tighten, and create a vacuum effectivly.
I will try reducing the level and see how it feels.
Totalshell, I ended up riding a trial with them and they are still the same.
Alan, if I understand you correctly, are you suggesting compressing the forks a bit before tightening the caps, thus reducing the spring rate effectivly ?
Kawasaki Kt250 Setup
in Twinshock
Posted
The forks on my KT (in the distant past) were unpredictable to say the least. Slow tight turns were ok, everything else was "interesting"
Having said that, I liked the bike and would have another one to play with.