davetom

Might be just me who is ignorant of SORN rules, but just in case; Bought a bike last October, was told it was SORN`ed.Heard nothing since from DVLA. Got it Insured and Mot`d last month, came to tax it and DVLA tell me SORN doesn`t transfer with change of ownership so a gap has appeared on their records, and a fine is due. Just had to write grovelling letter to local Taxation office to hopefully avoid fine, stating obviously that I wasn`t trying to avoid duty as tax exempt.. Should have done what the local criminals/joy riders do, and not bothered registering it in my name?

Hi Jon, thanks for that, wasnt sure whether to go for the default EP90 choice as its nice and thick. Not much info yet on Net re Burman boxes, will strip it next winter so probably be back here asking for rebuild hints and tips.

Hi, whats everyone using to lube the Burman box? Oil or oil/grease?

Hi Ben, well I`m sure you`ll get much more knowledgable guys than me along soon to assist you but until then... 1st of all, I understand your feelings on matching engine/frame numbers, but you will save lots of cash if you just get the best engine you see, and any frame. That is pretty much all that will be left of use to you anyway, should you buy a complete bike. If you plan to use steel rims, the back is fine but you need a 21" front. They were used back in the day so its original enough.It will be difficult to build without at least modifying the rear subframe to lower seat height, though the material you remove could possibly be put back in? Dont bother with a straight pipe, they are loud enough with a token silencer, you`ll annoy yourself in the end ,and all around you. Oil in frame or alloy oil tanks are to remove weight and bulk. For bars, just find some Renthals on Ebay, or trawl autojumbles for steel ones if thats what you want. Your correct about the gearing, my C15 is 15 front/59 rear, but you`ll struggle if you plan to use standard hubs, they are heavy and there isnt much choice on rear sprockets. The standard shocks are not suitable, you want some a couple of inches longer at least to get you some ground clearance. You will need fold up footpegs as a safety requirement too, mounted further back and higher for traction/clearance. I dont want to pee on your bonfire, its great that you have an interest in British stuff, but costs mount up to make something trials suitable, it would save a lot by buying something that has had some of the work done and needs improving. I converted a standard C15, and there is only the frame and engine still original.If I were to do it again, I`d get something that someone else has thrown a bit of time and effort(and expense!) at.This is without loads of "fiddle" mods either, the reason that people deviate from standard road bits isnt to cheat, its just that the road stuff is not fit or suitable off road. Well good luck and I`m sure you`ll get any questions /querys answered on here, they`re a friendly knowledgable bunch. Dave

Well first of all can I applaud OTF for trying to cut a sensible swathe through the minefield that is `pre 65`. I totally get where you are coming from in trying to rein in spending on implausible imitations of forks/yolks, which ,if they were just excellent imitations in nice materials ,ie hard to tell once powdercoated, would justify the cost, but they don`t even try to copy the original. I`ll maybe offer a different viewpoint in that I`m new to pre65. I`m 42,I`ve ridden a pre 65 roadbike for 15yrs, but rode modern enduros.I built a C15 last winter, thoroughly enjoyed the process, and the only nod towards `fiddle` was Betor forks and yokes, simply because I went to 3 or 4 Miller rounds and they seemed the norm. I finished the bike last Feb, but my 1st child was born in April and was quite poorly for a while ,and the time/inclination to ride didnt happen last summer. Fast forward to now, young son is fine and thoughts back to getting out on the bike, but after reading more and more as a poor substitute to riding, realise I`ve comitted a cardinal sin and virtually guaranteed a full trophy cupboard by using yokes with outboard pinch bolts! I seriously considered getting some fiddle forks made, not so that I would win, no chance of that, I just thought that that seemed to be the standard of bike that the courses were set to,and also I didnt want to turn up ( not knowing anyone) and have them think I was taking the pee, with my obviously un British Betors. Well after sussing out the prices and and realising that the bike wouldn`t look any older, but I would basically just have paid a pre65 `acceptance fee`, I decided that with my new focus as a father( rather than a selfish 30 something!), that I really couldn`t be a***d. In the last few months also, I picked up a bog standard HT5, and although it feels like riding a Panther with knobblies (compared to the C15), I feel more inclined to head toward LDT`s or just enter it stock in the wobblers class, and move the C15 on, because its like my 16 yr old nephew, not a boy but not a man either and not sure where it belongs. Its probably my naivety that I`d imagined pre 65 to be a collection of like minded individuals who liked messing about on out-of-date old iron. One final question,( not directed at OTF or any of the other positive people on here who care about their sport and are doing something to improve it)... did riders not enjoy trials til decent foreign forks came along?

I recall watching a feature on cheap car (banger?) racing in Scandanavia (poss Top Gear), where to keep costs below a certain figure,say

I left Rover in 2000( I saw the writing on the wall when BMW did a runner) and they were still trying to sort out Head Gaskets. I think it was a combination of the liners being loose in the block til the head was bolted down, and insufficient rigidity of the head/block joint; better steel dowels between head/block have been used since to prevent it. It was a good engine though ( if built properly!) ,lightweight, liked to rev, and responsive to tuning.I had one in a Caterham and that was happy at 7600 screaming its nuts off. Some of the Caterham crowd have them at 1.9l putting out 260+hp.But yes, if you search the Caterham or Lotus Elise forum for Head Gasket failure, you`ll get a lot of hits... Talking of the valve spring turning, we did tests on heads with electric motors powering them, specifically to monitor valve rotation. They stayed stationary til about 4k, then would start rotating. If the engine was hardly ever revved over 4k, carbon build up on the seats was greatly increased, but a good rev now and then definately keeps em clean.

Good video..In the late `90`s I worked in Development at Rover, we used to run k-series engines at 7250rpm to destruction, and they would happily run for 2-3 weeks! Thats 4-500 hrs, flat out. Think about that the next time you redline your motor for 10 secs and think you`re wrecking it. The exhaust systems would be cherry red for the first 4-5ft( even with cooling fans on them), and the manifolds got that hot that you could see through the walls and see the gases flying past.

Thanks Charlie, I`m going down the route of big bore/short stroke 500, using an 86mm xt350 piston that has a 19mm gudgeon pin, so just want to sort out the small end bush I need

Before I take my bike apart, anyone know the size of the small end in the rod ie the outer size of a new small end bush?

John, tried to reply but mailbox full! Totalshell, thanks for the offer, I`ll see what John can come up with then maybe take you up on that

Anyone got a programme from this? Trying to find out some history of a bike I`ve just bought that may have been there

Hi, just bought a HT and not sure whats what. Originally it was a `57 500 reg. and has scruiteneering marks at the bottom of the forks The bike was rebuilt around 2000in Scotland but the guy I bought it off bought it on a whim and prefers modern stuff and was pretty clueless.A letter with the bike states that the swing-arm, sumpguard,oil tank,front end, and 19"rear rim were on it at the SSDT.

Thanks, yes, I`ve got Morley`s book but wasn`t sure if numbers were accurate?

Anyone have an idea of how many HT3`s were built?

A few years ago, I worked with a guy who had been an engineer with the Williams F1 team during the Alan Jones era. To reduce blow-by and bed rings in, they used to sprinkle Talcum into the inlets, and watch the excess crankcase pressure disappear... Must have been a brave guy who tried it first on a nice new F1 engine!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Royal-Enfield-Bullet...=item3f01417d09 Could be a desert racer with that long range tank?

Whereabouts are you? I did similar with mine

Don`t know if this is relevant but I had an enduro bike with a Dellorto with a hefty spring, and the mod was to slowly run the spring along a bench grinder, so it ended up as a D shape in cross section. It worked on that anyway, as long as you dont go too mad!

Hi Nigelog, your mod does make sense, it did cross my mind but unlike you i did not work out a solution!. Engine is together now but will prob try that next time its apart. Cheers, Dave

Yes, I`ve done it now, funnily enough I read your blog too and thought I`d try it as it does make sense

Hi, I`ve recently bought a C15 head ( part no. 40-338) that according to the Rupert Ratio book is ` scrambles `59 `60 and big valve with 15/16 choke. The exhaust is standard C15 but the inlet measures 1" 7/16 ( no valves with head). I`ve read that SS80 is 1" 13/32, but does anyone know if mine is standard?. The inlet is ported but don`t know whether that is original or later. I need a new inlet valve and not sure where to get one? Thanks in advance, Dave

Thanks chaps, think I`ll try Dave the frame 1st

Any recommendations for a pre65 friendly mot`er in Brum?

Cheers lads, got the answer I was hoping for