slogger

Have been ringing a number of dealers today (bvm, lampkins - closed, motomerlin) trying to get caliper pot/seals to do a refurb of a 95 Techno 250 rear brake. Worryingly a number of times I was told "if they are available". So what are my options ? Is their another pattern caliper that can be fitted where parts will be more readily available and if so will I need to replace the disc as well? Does anyone know suppliers of seals and caliper pots that can be provide from patterns / sizes. If so, where can I get the tech spec of the items ? Thinking worse case here as I am sure the items will be available but if not I need to be prepared! Rob

Many thanks.....gives me a starting point. Lets see what else I find.......

Guys, thanks for the replies. Something to keep me busy at the weekend! Rob

E What's the easiest way as the sensor wires are plastic coated spades ? I assume you mean just bridging across the two with a small amount of wire whilst the spades are pushed onto the terminals ??

My son has had his Sherco for about 4 months now and during the riding, I have not heard the fan come on once. Is this normal in the current UK climate and if not what's the easiest way to test. I can see two wires coming from the temp sensor (red and yellow) and two going to the fan (black and blue). I assume I can do a voltage test across the sensors (if so what should it be) and also run the fan on a battery to see if that's OK (if so what voltage?) Rob

Have just bought a 95 techno off of the guy who runs a farm where we practice. The bike has not been used much over the last 2 years but got a good price and am generally happy with it to introduce me to monos after 20 years out of the saddle. Have given it a basic shakedown I now need to cover the mechanical basics on it. So a few questions for any previous owners of this model: Oil: what grade and quantity from fully drained Water: Have found the filler next to the fuel filler. Is their an easy way to gauge the level? It seems to have a slope away but I cant see any past this ? It appears to go into a tank below. Do you fill up to the cap and let it find a level via the over flow or is their a visual marker? Rear brake: not good! caliper only seems to be moving on the outer pistons. Any handy hints on a strip down ? Have just done my sons sherco so am comfortable doing it, just need to know if their is anything to watch out for Fan: has not cut in yet ? any easy way to test either the fan or the sensor? Anything else to consider on this model ?????? Rob

No offence taken, weve all got to buy to our means and its taken me 6 months of hard saving to get to that stage! Key thing now is to spend it wisely otherwise its just wasted... Appreciate the advice. Was worried about about going over the potential 10 yr barrier as I dont have a scooby about modern trials bike prices hence the reason for getting a steer from guys who know much better than me.................. Sounds like the beta at around the 6-650 is a solid punt Where Im struggling is that I am seeing twin shocks going for similar money ? it just does not make sense !

Sounds a bit steep for almost 10 yrs old ??? Have seen 2002 shercos etc go for that sort of money ? do Beta's carry a premium and is their much in weight/performance by stepping up 2-3 years newer ?? I do agree that this one looks very tidy though..........

Looking to get back into trials on a more modern bike and have a budget of about

Thanks once again to everyone, but I was celebrating to early..........................still not enough bite so it looks like its coming off again. Have looked at the pistons and the inner one is working but the outer is still solid???? its actually causing the caliper to flex apart as the outer stays static and the inner applies the load....... So a few more questions....... 1) What is the size of the bleed nipple ????? soooo many sizes on the net! It is a combined banjo/nipple so I could just replace the nipple (but dont know the size/thread pitch) or should I just replace the whole banjo/nipple combination (once again is it 1 or 1.25 pitch) 2) Will have another go at cleaning the callipers but if it is shot what's the cost of a new rear calliper and where in the UK is the best place to buy (mail order preferred) cheers again Rob

Thanks to everyone who has hunted around / given advice............ Have managed to strip the caliper and get it working (hoooooorah!). Tip from a friend was to cut down a spare brake line, connect this to a compressor and use that to push the caliper out. Worked for one side OK, but the other would not shift. Splitting the caliper and pushing the compressor nozzle direct against the o-ring shifted it! So its all cleaned up and working. Have managed to get the caliper back together and have found a local motor factors who think they can pattern the bolt for me. Also found the bleed nipple was rounded! so another little item to replace...... thanks again to everyone for taking the time to give advice etc Rob

Yep correct, bike is a 125

Caliper is above the swing arm (part no R064 from the 02 series spare parts book looks identical but they only list the whole caliper not the bolts). Anchored thru the rear wheel spindle with a lug on the rear swing arm to hold position. Bolt head is a standard 10mm with plenty of space to get either a ring end or socket onto it.............did they change mid model ??

After much failed bleeding, I have resigned myself to the fact that the caliper of my sons bike is well and truely siezed (the joys of buying from ebay but this appears to be the only real fault). One bolt was quite rounded (the ones that hold the two halves of the caliper together) but I have managed to release it with an impact socket. This makes me think that it has not really be paid much attention from the point that it was rounded off. How the lad was riding in it in competition is beyond me! but anyway........ Once I have serviced the caliper (Im hoping otherwise its going to be a replacement one!) I am going to need to replace the bolts. Their are loads of places on line in the UK but they are asking for thread sizes. The bolts have a number of letters followed by 8.8 so I am assuming they are metric M8 bolts as follows: material A2 grade stainless steel thread diameter 8mm thread pitch 1.25mm width across flats 13mm head height 5.5mm Any thoughts or information to validate this ? Rob

Had a fab day on Sunday! let me explain..... Recently both of my kids had a full day at a local trials school. Well my son took to it really well and wanted to start riding so over the last month we go the bike, trailer, tow hitch, boots , helmet etc! we set off for our first practice. After visiting a couple of local trials to see the standard of the beginners route, we found out about a local practice venue, which I must say was FAB! Just what you needed. A large field to practice the basics (moving off, stopping, gear changes etc) and once he was back in the swing of it, into the woods to mark out a few basic sections. 2 hrs later he was shot but happy with his progress. One section with a few turns and some roots, another with a bit of a climb up a staircase made out of logs and the final section in a stream (drop in, along the stream and up over a bank). He had a blast and is ready for his next practice in a weeks time. Why a tale of two riders ? Well after about 18 years out of the saddle, my son kindly let me have 15 minutes on his bike (thanks James!). WOW what a difference to my old Fantic 240 and Whitehawk 200! I am now struggling wheter to go back to twinshock or get a modern bike. Either way once James is upand running, I will be back!!!! My son has kindly allowed my daughter to also have use of his bike (as she didnt quite pick it us so quickly). So that means more visits to the practice venue on Saturdays when he is at work..............its going to be hard......................

I picked up a comment earlier this week on a bike sale on ebay, saying that the tyres had "not been turned yet". Now I vaguely remember this as common practice in the 80's when I rode, but am not sure if this has been carried thru to modern times. Do please still turn the tyres to make the most if both edges, is it still possible with modern tyres / bikes and is it frowned upon or recognised as good practice ??

All, many thanks for the advice. Have had a go at bleeding the rear first (seeing as the guys said he had done it). Got to the airbox and found a bodged cross threaded allen bolt! No way he had bled it! Spent 10 mins and already it is better. Will try the steam clean as that sounds a good step forward and will spend a bit more time bleeding all of the system (just done the caliper end). Front disk is a wierd one. Have "floating" discs on my Ducati but these are more a connector between the hub assembly and the rotor. I have no play on these. The Sherco definately has loads of pay that I would say is excessive. Am planning to have a look this weekend. My hunch is that they holes have gone oval over time as the play is definately at the hub point. I would be surprised if the amount of play is "normal".

Copemech, many thanks, loads for me to read thru there! will try the steam cleaning as the first step. Never heard of that technique before but it sounds logical. Struggling to get a hold of the fuel mix ? Whats the ratio or volme in uk for petrol to oil ?? Also, have given the bike a good look over today and whilst practicing balancing on a light hill, noticed some play/knocking on the front set up. Thought it was the steering head bearing or maybe the forks at first, but traced it to the front disc. With the front brake on, the pads are holding the disk solid but the disk itself is moving on the hub bolts. I assume this has never been replaced and the holes have ovaled off hence the movement? Should their be any play there or should it be solid ?? Rob

My son has took the step of starting trials and we have managed to get a really tidy 125 (02) off of ebay for

Had the 50cc model. Didnt last very long on it! Went from a Ty80 to the Italjet 50, was really taken in by its looks but it was soooo underpowered. Geometry was spot on but it just lacked any punch. Dad quickly traded it in for a Montesa 125 cota which was much better (thanks dad!). Always wondered what the bigger bored versions were like..................

I remember them well..... is their any reason why you dont fancy the modern route ?

Thats my thinking.....the kids had a lesson at a local trials school last year. Had a quick 5 minute blast on a Sherco 125 and could not beleive how effortless it all was. But then the last few weeks we went and watched a couple of local events and seen the odd Montesa Cota and a Beamish Suzuki and thought.........hmmmm twin shocks! I think if I could find either a large capacity Italjet JT or a Whitehawk 200 I could be tempted as the Whitehawk was by far the best I had every ridden. For whats its worth, my twinshock history was TY80, Italjet JT 50 (great geometry but no power), montesa 125 Cota, Whitehawk 200 (awesome!), Beamish 250, Bultaco Sherpa 250 (white frame), Fantic 240 (thought I was the dogs with the forward kicking kick start!). The later bikes (from the Beamish onwards) appeared so heavy but I would love to have another try on the Whitehawk or see what a large capacity Italjet is like (but you never see them for sale!!). The other option could be one of the White tank unit montesa's.... Hmmmm but I keep getting drawn back to the modern stuff!!!!

Thought I would be civil and say high to all..... Coming back into trials after about 20 years out of the saddle. Rode twin shocks in the 80's at schoolboy level for many years and now that my son wants to start (he's 17) it seemed an ideal excuse to get myself a bike! Looking forward to the chat etc....