slogger

All, Many thanks for the feedback. The exhaust work definately seems a solid starter. Taylo63, when you have 5 mins is their any chance of whipping your carb off and giving me the full jetting, slide and needle information? thanks again Rob

Hi all, I have recently had a TY Mono fully rebuilt (engine) but whilst it runs "ok", comparing it to a friends on Sunday who has recently bought one the engine goes appear more flat. Now that I know the engine itself is 100%, I want to explore the front exhaust (the rear has been replaced with a new box) and also the carb, so questions: 1) I have a brand new Mikuni VM26. Has anyone tried one of these and do they have a starting point for jetting (slide, needle etc) 2) Are replacement front exhausts available or is it a "cut it open and weld it up" affair? thanks, any advice appreciated....

I have never found Betas the most easiest of bikes to maintain brakes on, my sons Sherpa always seemed much easier .... but I am hitting a problem with my 09 200 and wondered if anyone has hit the same problem or has any thoughts. The rear started to show signs of being ineffective so I thought a full strip and service was needed. Taking the pots out and examining the seals showed significant wear so a refurb kit was purchased. After cleaning everything as I normally would do, the new seals and pots were refitted and one half went in OK whilst the other half would not move past the seal with reasonable pressure. Just to check it was not the seal grooves, I took the seal and pot set that went in easy, put them in the half of the caliper where I was having the problem and they fitted fine. The suspect pair went into the caliper half that previous was OK and they grabbed. Measuring the seals I noticed that the depth across the seal was not consistent and a wider than normal edge appears to extrude from the groove which looks like it is causing the piston to catch on one side. I sent the refurb kit back and was sent a new pack which once again measuring them (before they had been exposed to any fluids etc) show the same manufacturing defect ie inconsistent measurements. I have tried fitting these and whilst they went together, it was more than hard thumb pressure and once assembled, they are that tight that the master cylinder (which has also been refurb'd) will not get them to progress out to a sufficient depth, in fact when striping them this afternoon it took 45 mins with an airline to pop them out! I have tried assembling with both DOT4 and also with rubber grease as an alternative. I would appreciate any thoughts?

Thanks Goudrons, The original pads were quite worn so they have a new set gone it. Also thanks for the tolerances. Any thoughts on preventative maintenance routine?

Hi all, about 12 months ago I bought a very tidy 2009 Evo 200 to compliment my twinshock bike. Its been a while since I have had to maintain disc brakes and being a rider whose technique tends to lend itself to a solid rear brake I have two quick questions: 1) What do people treat as normal maintenance. I have had two comps now where the front brake started to seize in one event and then 2 comps after the rear started to hang. I assume good practice is not to service on failure? What is the frequency people use to strip down and clean and is it a full strip (ie pistons out) or purely an visual inspection and make sure the pistons run freely without having to lose the integrity of the hydraulics 2) Is their a supplier just for the caliper seals or do you have to by the full refurb kit? It seems silly to have to buy the full kit if the pots are OK but the seals could do with changing Any thoughts / advice / experience is appreciated. Rob

Appreciated all, especially the post link to the ACU ruling

Hi all, Am thinking about getting a camera (gopro etc)and and getting some good advice. Was just wondering peoples views on here plus whats the best mount position? Bars will give the bike route view whilst helmet will get a good perspective on where the eyes track within the section? I know its a fairly wide angle lens but was wondering peoples views on mount position?

Many thanks

Cheers all, was hoping that a strip down is all they need. Took the caliper off as the weekend and its very gunky! and I mean very! Have not had time to inspect the pads yet. Was worried that the heat may have damaged the seals (the fluid had boiled as I had no lever pressure at all come the end riding back to the trailer) but their is no heat discoloration on the disk etc. Hopefully a full strip down and service will do it and whilst out a new set of pads. Same question though, if their is damage to the seals etc, what is the kit I'm looking for (or is that in the threads... will look tonight). Thanks again

Hi all, Had a great ride a few weeks ago, getting use to a 200 Evo I bought to supplement my twinshock. It was bought as a well maintained runner but at the last comp the front caliper started to seize and bind on the last 2 sections. I am quite comfortable stripping the brakes as I had a Rev 3 before but I am trying to workout what caliper service kit I need to be ordering. If I hit the search engines I am getting info for both a Grimeca and an AJP front caliper for that model. The one on the bike is embossed with a Beta logo so I'm confused even more. I am assuming that the caliper is in fact an AJP branded as a Beta part but I don't want to order a service kit until I am sure. Any help appreciated

Hi Glynn and welcome to both the site, forum and world of trials. Some great advice here already, especially the bit about not doing serious practice on your own! The best advice i can give is get onto ebay and buy yourself about 30 reasonably sized tent pegs. When you practice mark yourself out sections that you think will just push you enough then ride them until you clean them. Then make them a little bit harder. Tighten the turns, add in a new obstacle, change the entry line from straight to a tight turn in. It is easy to spend 2 hours riding around with stuff that is comfortable but my experience is that a set of tent pegs and a good eye to knock up a section can work wonders....

Martyn, sure you will get an answer from the forum but if you don't give me a shout. Plenty of people in our club running bultacos

Welcome Rob, any best of luck with your crossover to classic trials. What part of the country are you?

60north, you were spot on (as I am sure you know)... took the other one apart and I can confirm it is 22mm and their is no restriction. Just need to get one made up now!

22mm across flats? Sounds a bit wide to go through the narrow restriction inside the fork legs?

Many thanks, what do you recommend of the top end of the bar? Bend it off into a L to get leverage or weld another bolt on to lock with a socket?? thanks Rob

A quick question? Does anyone know if a specialist tool is available to hold the inner fork mechanism when loosening the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fork leg? I read in an earlier posting that people have mede them with a Hex bolt welded to a piece of steel bar? Does anyone know the correct bolt head size to use? thanks Rob

Cheers both, have emailed Craig so thanks for that lead. Had a look on TY Trials website and noticed they have a "Shirty" tailpipe. I know this will be different to the Nigel Birkett one but was wondering on any experiences of that one? As I said, the bike is going to mainly be for the outfit so I want quite a soft power delivery. Reading the WES Smooth write up I wonder if this could be the one to go for? I was advised that lengthening the exit from the expansion chamber to the tailpipe (as I want to move it back 6-9 inches) does make the engine a little more peaky but I assume its going to be a bit of trial and error. Still looking for knowledge on the rear mudguard if anyone has any?

Hi, I am currently rebuilding a TYMono that has been paired to a Rushton Chair. Its a full strip down, powder coat, replace all bearings etc. It has been converted to a twin shock on the back end which I prefer for the chair use. A few loose ends I am hoping to box out whilst the frame is off being coated: 1) Does anyone know any UK retailers who do front fork springs. TY Trials, SM and InMotion don't seem to list them and the Magicals website said it was going to be back up on 1 Sept but is still down 2) Has anyone replaced the expensive/moulded rear mudguard with a stock replacement available from the sites above. I am pairing the bike with a shedworks tank and seat cover so am happy to mod as required 3) As part of the chair mods I need to move the exhaust back about 6 - 9 inches.I am going to replace the end pipe with either a SM or a WES so would appreciate peoples opinions. thanks all Rob

how tall is he? im 5ft 5 and have found the bultaco sherpa 175 a really nice ride....

Great starter bike but you are buying aged so i agree with all of the above but that will be similar for a lot of models (they all have their good and bad traits). Betas were also prone to cases rotting by the water pump. Easy fix as you can buy replacements, just a bit of a pain. Found mine easy to maintain except the rear brake took 3 days to bleed. my sons sherco took 15 mins! Ride it, see how it runs / fits... best of luck and welcome

Paul that's great, really appreciated

Glad to hear. The guys who bought the beamish also ended up buying my chair and are putting an outfit together. Looks like the club will have a beginners sidecar class soon. Not doing this months but will be at the 2 day in Sept. Hope to see you at an event soon

Taylo63, I also put a Mikuni VM on it and Electrex electronic ignition (this was before I knew about the hole!!! as I kept blowing condensors). Really pleased with both the mods althought they probably didnt need it in hindsight. Found the bike great in muddy stuff (found grip like mad) and really planted in rocky streams. Also had a Beamish which seemed to be better on the tight stuff. Only sold both of them as I came across a Bultaco Sherpa 175 which due to my small size seemed to suit me better. My advice would be get to a twin shock club and ride a few bikes. I always fancied an Ossa Gripper but having ridden one I hated it. I find the Fantic 240s too peaky and TY's just dont do it for me (unless its the Whitehawk model). Parts are getting scarce for monts and you don't see as many people breaking Monts like you do TY's, Fantics etc but their does seem to be a great support network particularly around the twinshock scene of people who know someone who might have some spares or who can machine some up. I needed the clutch arm push rod which was only a small cylindar about 7mm diameter and something like 9mm long. I could not find one for love or money and they wear in the centre where the clutch arm rests against it so the clutch arm shortens and the clutch is hard to adjust. I had some made up in 1mm increments to play around with. On the flip side I had never really worked on a 2 stroke engine in detail but having to split the cases it was really easy to learn the basics and s a lovely motor to self maintain.

Had you competed on it yet?