bogwheel

Where are you in Oz Ned Kelly (no i'm not after the reward) Pretty sure M199's were Red and silver.

Have yesterday opened up a mid muffler, that i think has not been done since new. The perforated tube is wrapped in a single layer of wire insect screen size mesh. Does this need to be replaced for any purpose please?

My point being, light abrasives will not ruin the tank. A shine is better than daggy, weathered and oxydised. We don't all want to spend more than the machine is worth - just make it presentable and ride it.

Believe me - what i have stated above works and i will add a pic soon!!!

Dependant on what condition it is in - A few Fine to very fine wet and dry's and then finish off with the glass stove top cleaner (white milky stuff). Put a shine on mine. If you have fuel stains coming through, that is another story. With plastic body work and guards, using a very hot heat gun will draw out the colour, and then polish as above. But haven't tried this on a fuel tank?

To repack middle muffler - http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss338/BULTACOBRIS/Muff2.jpg

Please be the lab rat and try it. Been wanting to do the same - but everyone says that the front wheel will hit the down tube? Front end is only orrible when you swap between a modern bike. (i too never noticed it years ago)

Great - thanks David and Martin, I think i am a bit wiser now? Everthing is new and have gone back to the Bing with all new bits and standard settings. I think the jerkyness at crawling speed may be carb related - Also can anyone advise how to set the float height and what is the correct measurement please? Thanks again.

Thanks Triple_X So install in centre position as instructions and fine tune from there? Yes i am confused with the auto advance - what i don't understand is that the strobe shows that it only starts to advance over about 1/3 throttle, so riding at crawling speed it will be retarded?? Anyway, i will go with your suggestion and see how it goes. At least your way i think it will not be over advanced. One thing i found is that whatever position the stator plate is in, the bike starts very easy and really responds when you give it a hand full, but jerky at crawly speed.

Instructions are clear and easy - bolt on and go. But runs hot and like a dog compared to the old RL ignition. Might just go back to points!

Thanks I asume the Electrex World ignition has auto advance. Using a strobe the timing mark advances about 8 to 10 deg from 1/8 to 1/2 throttle. So if timing is too advanced engine will run hot? Bike originally had a suzuki stator and flywheel that worked great before it wore out. When i purchased the Electrex World ignition i got a bultaco flywheel that was strobed and marked at full advance on a M198 (250). Not sure what do do timing wise, have been told different stories ie. set at 3500rpm- 1/2 throttle(15 to 18 deg btdc), or just install as per the instructions (10 deg btdc). Any idea what is the equal in mm please?

Somewhere i was advised to strobe / set timing on an electronic ignition at 3500prm (Electrex World) If this is so, could someone enlighten me as to what throttle opening this would be please? M199 sherpa- Many thanks

As per previous post - he has trouble with tank turning white also! If you have a poly tank, you don't have the option of a different colour. (unless someone has got around this?) Also, has anyone else changed to Alpina \ Pursang triples like the one above and can comment please?

Have a 2009 txt 250 that has done very little hours. At present it has less ground clearence than my sherpa and the side stand is too long. I have wound the spring to over half way and have the rebound set to about the middle. Can anyone shine some light please? Do the rear springs sag or is there something else to check / fix? Thanks

123 main is std - also 40 Pilot; 273 Needle. But in most cases are a starting point.

Thanks - just noticed my EC300 has the same, but on the front wheel.

Hi - just wanting to know what the magnet is for on the rear disc please? (09 TXT250) Mine has come off. thanks

Is there any specific symptom that can be caused by a partially blocked (or misplaced baffle) in the front muffler please, before i cut it open? I have a running problem only when crawling along at up to 1/4 throttle opening - pinging / jerky / like pre-igniting. Bike is very responsive otherwise. Have new seals , bearings, piston, carb, ignition. Have done a leak down test - ok. Have tried a lectron / bing / oko carbs all with different combos of jetting. Have tried different timing settings. Muffler was repacked not so long ago by cutting a section out of the back near the bracket and maybe i was too aggressive at stuffing material back in and dislodged baffle??? Close to putting bike on ebay - any ideas please?

Sorry to change the topic - Which electronic ignition do you have (electrexworks?), and what did you set the timing at please?

hi My Sherpa is fitted with an RL stator plate and flywheel (not sure what coil / ignition is though) I find that the bike is playing up when hot (similar to when timing is out or when starving for fuel) the bike runs fine for about 15 - 20 minutes. Bike starts first kick always, hot or cold. Could this be a fault in the cdi system? thanks

oops! too late - the guru engineer doing the rebore has talked me into 1.5th. (think i'll trust his forty years experience) thanks - over and out

Piston is NOS Mahle - so will go with standard 0.0015" and carefull run in. Thank you all.

Thanks for all your theories - i have been told 0.002" and to make sure i warm up the motor properly before riding. What do you think? I am located in a warm part of Australia if that has any bearing on the size.

Can i please have advise on the required piston clearence for a M199 (will now be 340cc!!) thanks