motopat

I had to get a mate to do some welding on my bike. We just disconnected everything we could find, and it was fine - maybe I was lucky - as mentioned removal is the only way to be 100% sure if you are not feeling lucky pat

thanks, thought I saw it somewhere, but @ work at the mo will 'ave a butchers. ta pat

hello, couldn't find a classifieds section (is there one? is there a need for one?) but anyhow, I'm after a pair of UK size 10 trials boots, make not important so long as they are better than my 10 year old mx boots dunno if anyone knows anyone, etc, etc I'm in West Sussex btw (dunno how much postage accross the country would be ) thanks, pat

the speedway style 'dead man's kill switch' I tried to describe above should kill the engine as in theory it should continuously interupt the spark - as it comes away with the rider there is no requirement to hold down a kill switch. (had crossers before where you'd have to hold down the kill switch until the engine had stopped turning over so know what ya mean). The only dissadvantage I could see with a dead man's kill switch would be if some dirt of something lodged in place of the button witch comes away with the rider iyswim - but I guess the likelyhood of this would be minimal. hth

dunno if this guy can help www.motomerlin.co.uk or www.sammymiller.co.uk (dunno if the links are 100% correct, but you'll find 'em with a google) good luck, Pat

haven't done any trials yet - just messing about on a mates farmland, so am a virgin as such It's not a prob at all though - you just clip it to your sleeve or (what I do) loop it around your wrist. Simply unhook from yourself when you want to leave your bike > but why you'd want to leave it running while looking at a section is a mystery to me . Or just park the bike up and get off / walk away and the engine will be killed. Like I said though, I'd rather this than have the engine wide open for any amount of time and not be able to cut it out quickly. I thinks it's a good idea

I just fitted a 'dead man's kill switch' to my Yam TYZ - they are the type that sidecar riders and speedway use - if you part company with the bike it kills the engine (coz it's attached to your wrist / wherever). Figured sooner or later I was gunna end up rolling down a hill with the bike stuck at the top, throttle pinned open . Anyway - easy job > follow the old wires to their bullet connectors, unconnect old, and attach new. If bike won't start put the wires in the other way round (only 2 wires). Bit tricky on a cramped for space trials bike, but being methodical & patience will get you there hth

thanks Woody. You make it sound easy(ish). Don't know that I'm tempted to do it alone, so will try and enlist the help of a friend who's a bit handier on a motorcycle and has done fork seals before. Along with the manual and your notes I'm sure the jobs a goodun . Hopefully he'll assist and I'll be more confident the next time Incidentally, my clutch drag dissappeared after an oil change - but strangely not on the first run of the bike, but the second. I guess there was stil some old oil between the clutch plates sticking them until 1 good heat cycle. now

haven't looked at the manual yet , but was wondering how much of a job replacing fork seals was going to be on my TYZ? Do you undo the caps at the top of the yolks, drop the forks, empty oil and pull apart? I guess you prize (sp?) out the old items and insert new? Is there any special tool I may need, or could a mechanical numpty like me do it with basic tool kit of spanners, screwdrivers and sockets, hack saw etc. I think previously someone (could have been Woody) suggested I leave well alone unless somethings the matter, but that time has come.... Cheers, Pat

I use MR Sheen on my metal work (on road bike), and it doesn't seem to do it any harm. WD-40 or something similar would shift oil and junk like that quite well. hth, pat

i had an XR600R supermoto which had 'play' in the rear end. Every MOT the tester pointed this out, but it never got worse. I think the free play stemmed from the top shock mounting, which would be exagerated through all the linkages to a few mm of movement at the rear wheel. I think it was just the design of the bike, but that's where I'd start to look if I were you (as I said any movement here will be amplified at the rear wheel). Could be 'normal' though

ooops double post

too right it's made of toffee. Stripped it using my 'Halfords professional' socket set, and no bodge tool would get the bugger off - it just got worse and worse (It's 12mm btw) I ended up getting a mate to weild a 10mm spanner to it After 2 spanners and 5 weilds the bugger came off . I am sure all this can be avoided by applying a bit of copper gease to the thread and a coat of oil onto the sealing washer. Grrrrrrr. Thanks to my mate Kevin for the weilding Thanks to Gordon Farley Trials for supplying the replacement FOC And thanks to you guys (esp. Woody who very kindly supplied me with a manual )

thanks a lot Woody and for the really useful info too. I'll private mail you my address and if you'd be kind enough to supply me with your's I'll send a cheque to you to cover postage and a bit more for your troubles. If you could mail it soon I may get it for the weekend Thanks again to all - I truly have found an excellent site full of excellent people . No doubt I'll have many more questions... cheers, Pat

thanks Woody the bike is still at my mate's farm, but I' am hoping to get it home to give it some tlc and 'get to know her'. cheers, pat

Thanks for the info guys. Have you located your manual Woody? If not I can make enquiries at the my local shop to try and source one. I'll have a look over the bike on the weekend - check cables, coolant, change grarbox oil, Etc. Incidentally, I have some Silkolene comp 4 4stroke gearbox oil in my garage from my previous bike. I think from memory this is semi-synth. Would it be OK in my little smoker? Cheers, Pat

hello, just bought a second hand Yamaha TYZ250 (1998 version) and after having a 'play' for a couple of hours yesterday I have noticed some things... being my first trials bike I am not sure if this is 'normal' Firstly, from cold the clutch doesn't work fully disengaging (sp?) the drive, and so the bike 'creeps'. This only happens for a few hundred meters maybe, until things have warmed up. It then behaves faultlesslty (AFAIK). Is this normal? Would an oil change help things? (I haven't done anything to it yet because I only just bought it sat and was dying for a play on it ) Also I noticed the cooling fan came on quite quickly, is extended use OK? - I am frightened it may be overheating (again - not checked coolant level yet) The gearshift is a bit dissapointing too - it goes in easy enough, but with a bit of a 'crunch' - I guess I am more used to roadbikes, but is it something I should be worried about? Last thing (for the mo ) is a manual available on the internet for downloading? Thanks muchly, Pat

haven't done any tyre changing ever in my life (other than push bikes), but what I do know is Fairy liquid (and all household washing up liquids) are salt based and very corrosive (sp?). What I'm getting at is using this may rust your rims if you don't clean it all off (and how can you do that with the tyre on ). Although I have seen many people suggest using it I wouldn't, I'd use KY or summat HTH, Pat