I finally got a reply from EM, about the US Market price. They say are large part of the increase, is for the North American compatible charger. Due to certifications, etc; it is more expensive than the standard EU one. The rest is made up of.... transport from France, customs, other import fees, insurance. This works out to about a 20% higher price for US Market.
Did they mention what the power requirement of that charger is?
As I recall, when Pursangs first switched to wrong side shift, the rear brake was moved to the right (or wrong) side of the wheel with a two piece rear hub. I would think you might be able to fit a smaller sprocket to that hub.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner, stripped and cleaned the carb and it’s much better though won’t tickover unless the screw is right in. I’m trying to get some new jets at the moment.
I put it together today with 4 Barnett and 5 Bultaco steel plates. It needed very little change in the adjustment. I backed the spring adjuster nuts off 5 turns from bottomed and have a nice one finger clutch now, I won't be surprised if I have to go back in and tighten them 1/2 turn but for the short test ride they seem to be holding OK.
This has got to be the best $40.00 you can spend on a Sherpa T! The bike is transformed and can be ridden much more like a modern bike. Finding neutral is a very simple task now where before I just about had to kill the engine if i wanted to find neutral while stopped.
Edit
I decided that the 5 turns backed off on the clutch springs was pushing my luck. I was getting a little slipping when kickstarting the bike and just wasn't confident that I wouldn't get some slippage when hot so I went in to turn each spring nut in 1/2 turn. I decided to switch up the plate stack to 5 Barnett and 4 steel plates, this required substantial adjustment at the clutch but not beyond it's operating range. I'm happier to have 5 sets of "ears" driving the aluminum clutch basket than just 4. Pull at the lever is noticeably heavier but I can still one finger it.
Now I just have to deal with substantial bruising, from kicking myself for putting up with the stock clutch for all those years.
I put it together today with 4 Barnett and 5 Bultaco steel plates. It needed very little change in the adjustment. I backed the spring adjuster nuts off 5 turns from bottomed and have a nice one finger clutch now, I won't be surprised if I have to go back in and tighten them 1/2 turn but for the short test ride they seem to be holding OK.
This has got to be the best $40.00 you can spend on a Sherpa T! The bike is transformed and can be ridden much more like a modern bike. Finding neutral is a very simple task now where before I just about had to kill the engine if i wanted to find neutral while stopped.
Due to mechanical ineptitude I have one warped inner (earless) clutch plate in my original all steel clutch pack. If I order Barnett friction discs are they thick enough that I can discard the one problem inner steel plate or do I need a replacement?
Have not got a parts book for the 199A but in the other ones I have (Model 125 onward) that use the same crank seal type are 50mm x 2mm. The Pursang and Frontera late models are 53mm x 2mm.
Thanks but that's the O ring for the flange. I need the one that slides onto the crankshaft before sliding the collar that the seal rides on onto the crankshaft.
Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the o ring that fits on the crankshaft before the collar, or sleeve, that the right side crank seals ride on on my 199A?
I ordered the parts but didn't get that smaller O ring. I'd like to find one in town before I go out to the shop tomorrow.
Thanks for the help everyone. I am up north in Bonner county. About 60 miles south of Canada. I found a club in Spokane, WA that I might try to check out. It’s a couple hours away so I should be able to do it. Really appreciate everyone’s help and offers.
You just missed a good event just north of the border.
Throttle cable Mikuni/Amal to Domino (assuming you have the Domino throttle)
Air filter for 199B. Also good for 199A. Others I don´t know
Inmotiontrials should be able to supply the parts needed
I have that setup. Have you been able to stretch the airbox hose enough to secure it to the carb? Mine comes up a bit short, I wonder if my air filter hose is shorter than current production, it may be an original Bultaco 199B part.
A longer screw won't help, the tip of the screw contacts the carb body in the venturi and stops. I was able to remove a small amount of metal where the screw makes contact and get nearly one more turn on the screw. I'll try that and see how it works.
I'd like to hear from anyone who's fitted a Mikuni to a late model Sherpa T as to how they did it. I took some measurements and found that the Mikuni is to short to span between the rubber intake and airbox boots. The necessary cylinder boot is stepped to two different diameters so I can't simply fit a longer hose, and the airbox boot is flanged at the airbox end so again not a simple hose swap. The carbs are readily available and affordable but I haven't found anyone who offers a ready to install kit.
The carb slide in my 199A is badly peened where it contacts the idle speed screw, I can't elevate the slide enough for a strong idle before the idle screw bottoms out in the carb body. I haven't found a new slide here in the USA and I'm not sure I can get one from the UK in time for the next meet. The slide is in good shape other than the contact spot with the idle screw. Has anyone repaired a slide like mine? I'm thinking I could thread a small brass screw into the slide to give a new surface for the idle screw to contact would give me back my idle adjustment. I'm guessing the slide might be plated zinc, or somesuch metal.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me, or a US source for a new slide?
I'll also be looking into a replacement carb, I want to stay somewhat period correct so I don't want an OKO or similar flat slide.
I am similarly afflicted. You need to keep trying different brands of helmet until you find one that fits. In extreme cases you could alter the foam liner of the helmet a bit, which will defeat some of the helmets protective abilities.
Bought a nice used 2017 300 a couple of months ago. Bike sat for about 3 weeks and when trying to ride it yesterday, no way it would start. I only got to use the bike a couple of times and it was a bitch to start, but I thought it was me. After checking the basics, I have determined there is no spark. Where can I get the diagnostics for this. Not plug, or kill switch. Couple of rides on the bike, convinced me that I was going to love the TRS, but after yesterday I want to throw a match at it.
The problem is more than merely academic to me. My wife thinks the thing that will eventually cause her to stop competing is repeatedly starting the bike. I compete on a 250 because it's easier to kick.
The effort and akwardness of repeatedly kick starting a Trials bike, frequently on uneven terrain, is a significant concern to a gimpy old man like myself as well, even though yes I can start it with my hand if I want to.
By the way I think I recall seeing the bleed hole in snowmobile cylinders as well.
4rt RPM idle tach
in Montesa
Posted
I use the 20K tach here
https://www.tinytach.com/handheld-tachometers
I'm sure there will be some outrage expressed here, claiming that it's too expensive.