Think you'll find Iconic558 was taking 198 not 199... but I'm not sure it makes much difference. I have a 198b that's very close to the end of the production run according to the chassis/engine numbers (which match) and it is a direct copy of the catalogue bike with one exception, the fork bottoms only have room for one seal in the lip...
I have seen and heard of 198 b's that are a real mix of what ever was around at the time but remember they are 40 years old so some of the rebuilt ones are likely to be more "correct" than anything that ever came out of the factory
Here’s the thing… this site is a free to join (and contribute) resource, run by a bloke who does it for nix and ably assisted by a few like minded volunteers. It’s vibrancy is down to you the reader isn’t it? and perhaps I’m overreacting to a post like this that implies it’s up to somebody else to do something about it but what the f£#£# has happened to this world…
Thanks guys, much appreciated and thanks for the heads up on the smarts, I’m going to try one on the rear of one of my Bantams when I next change a tyre, so it will be a Tubliss Dual Chamber tubeless Xlite and Tubed rim. Be interesting to see how it goes.
Thanks again, cheers Paulmac
Thank you guys, your help is very much appreciated. Johnjsy great advice ? feet up fun they are parallel but cheers for the heads up. Once again thanks all. Cheers Paulmac
Can anyone advise the size - diameter and pitch - of the thread at the fork tube top? Need to clean up a little whoopsie and can’t find the size listed anywhere. Thanks in advance . Cheers Paulmac
The banjo’s have a habit of distorting, due to overtightening, three solutions, buy a new one, try and resurface it with 1000 grit on a flat surface or use gasket cement - I’ve tried all three numerous times - never been particularly successful with the resurfacing bit ?, hope this helps. Cheers
It’s real easy to get the yokes out of line which will create friction. Try loosening the wheel spindle, guard stays and bottom yoke pinch bolts than give the handlebars a good shaking left to right and bounce up and down on the suspension, that should help to centre up the forks in the various attachment points. Clamp up the bottom yoke bolts then the wheel spindle then the guard brace hope this helps. Cheers
Best set up I have found for a D14 includes the gear switch as above, Electrex World ignition, B175 centre plug head, Rex Caunt 187 cc big bore piston kit, standard clutch Drayton exhaust and air box, Amal Premier carb, 12 t primary sprocket Hope this helps. Cheers
Bike on the ground with you on board and engine off.
Pop it into 3rd or 4th gear - pull in the clutch lever and push the bike backward and forward with your feet - the clutch should release then you can start it.
Jim, pop it into 3rd or 4th gear - pull in the clutch lever and rock it backward and forward - the clutch should release then you can start it. I'm sure an Ossa specialist will be along soon but try this. It does sound like your plates are sticking - have you tried the obvious - correct oils and correct quantities - correct free play at the clutch lever ? Hope this helps. Cheers Paul Mac
198B model year production differences...?
in Bultaco
Posted
Think you'll find Iconic558 was taking 198 not 199... but I'm not sure it makes much difference. I have a 198b that's very close to the end of the production run according to the chassis/engine numbers (which match) and it is a direct copy of the catalogue bike with one exception, the fork bottoms only have room for one seal in the lip...
I have seen and heard of 198 b's that are a real mix of what ever was around at the time but remember they are 40 years old so some of the rebuilt ones are likely to be more "correct" than anything that ever came out of the factory