It is one of Jim's bikes and I totally agree he is one of the most helpful and generous individuals I've had the pleasure of dealing with, however I've bombarded him lately and I'm desperate not to 'out stay my welcome' hence the post here.
Think you may have answered your own question, leak in reed cage gasket = weak mixture = overheating. Smoke was probably the hot exhaust burning out residual oil but check you haven't blown a crank seal.
The cable can hook up around the condenser on the left hand side of the frame - make sure it runs 'inside' and isn't getting tangled in the mass of wires.
Clean head with WD40 and a fine Scotchbrite pad. For piston top - pack some soft tissue around edge then do same. Carefully remove tissue and blast with air. A foot pump will do it. Not a solution found in any 'how too' but works more times than not in an emergency.
Buy them both if you can but I'm biased too. The Red bike looks to have a Miller type GRP Bash Plate fitted. They were the 'go' in the day and if it's in half decent shape you could probably make a mould from it and re make in either GRP or Carbon and help pay for the restoration. If you do buy the red one and don't want the bash plate - I'll buy it and make you copy.
Check the amount of transmission oil... it its really low (you'll have to drain it to check on the Sherco) you could have blown a seal which would suck oil, run really lean and get v hot with lots of acrid smelling smoke. When you pull off the pipe check the piston top - if it's wet and oily that might be the cause.
Not an expert on the MAR and I'm sure someone will come along soon who is but at small throttle openings I'd be suspecting the pilot jet or circuit. (30 sounds a bit small to me maybe 35?)
You don't say if a new or used carb and jet - irrespective, I've found machining swarf in new carbs and styrene packing in new jets so probably not important.
I'd be giving the pilot jet and circuit a good blow through with aerosol carb cleaner and air. But while you've got the carb off it doesn't take much more time the give all the jets and circuits a good blow out and check the float height. At least you then have all the bases covered before you experiment with jets.
Loosen the bottom triple tree pinch bolts (keep the top ones tight) the fork brace/mudguard stay and the axle pinch bolts - give it good wiggle from side to side and pump the suspension a few times. Tighten the bottom triple tree pinch bolts first then the axle then the fork brace/mudguard stay and Bob's yer uncle. If the bars are net - change em - much cheaper than dental work.
My first time opportunity to see the world's best in action on Sunday and OMG Awesome!!!!!!
Re the unstoppable... tongue in cheek, the guy standing next to me reckoned that Bou's bike is fitted with some kind of special 'force field' that makes him float over stuff. I'm sure this has been said many times before, but to my mind that force field seems to be absolute precision. Visually he does indeed 'float', He doesn't seem to hit an obstacle with anything like the force that the rest of the top 10 riders do. He seems to be consistently 'softer' on the terrain and I was surprised that I could 'hear' a very distinct difference in force between Bou hitting an obstacle and most everyone else. No idea how you counter that from a section setting perspective.
Another thing that surprised me was listening to Bou and Rage discuss their respective thoughts - they were joined at hip when walking lots of the sections. Good to see and hear.
Brilliant effort from the organisers though - Top Marks to all.
Had this happen to me in the past. From memory there is a tiny oil feed hole in the bearing that has to line up with a corresponding hole in the crank case. The bearing can spin in the journal and get out of line thus starving it of oil. I think the fix on mine was to replace the bearings and pop a 'punch' mark on the bearing outer and housing to hold it in place.
I'm having problems with clutch stick on my 2015 300 and started by bleeding the clutch circuit (Braketec).
A mate gave me top tip which you all may know, but since I didn't see it on this forum I thought I'd share it.
Bleeding from the top down is a pain in the provable and takes for ever but if you remove the top cover then undo the master cylinder from the crankcase (thoroughly cleaning the area first) you can bleed form the bottom up by pulling in the clutch leaver and carefully pushing in the piston on the master cylinder - magic happens and the air shoots out of the top reservoir (bit messy so have a rag handy) .
Find a bit of flat ground and ride round in a big 'figure of eight' without using the clutch. Gradually make the turns tighter and when you can do lock to lock without stalling, move to a slope and do the same. It will be as frustrating as all hell to start with but worth the effort.
but I'm biased too. The Red bike looks to have a Miller type GRP Bash Plate fitted. They were the 'go' in the day and if it's in half decent shape you could probably make a mould from it and re make in either GRP or Carbon and help pay for the restoration. If you do buy the red one and don't want the bash plate - I'll buy it and make you copy.
Drayton Bantam Exhaust - Repacking
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
It is one of Jim's bikes and I totally agree he is one of the most helpful and generous individuals I've had the pleasure of dealing with, however I've bombarded him lately and I'm desperate not to 'out stay my welcome' hence the post here.