triple_x

Hi Woody Confirmation came back today that my vehicle has been made secure, and to proceed with the registration allowing 48 hours for the details to be available to the DVLA. 6 working days turnaround is excellent for a government department considering all the staff reductions. So well done to HMRC. Can now ride it in the Perce Simon and the Downland.

Life does not get easy these days. Same is happening to me. Scenario 1980 Sherpa needs NOVA approval before V5 and age related plate issued. Sent dating certificate, photo copy from Comerfords ledger showing date of import and to whom the bike was sold. Thank you Dave Renham. Just have to wait, once HMRC agree it was legitimately imported and taxes paid in 1980 then I am good to go! The NOVA dept appears overwhelmed but perseverance got me through to an employee who was very helpful. However I suspect that without definitive proof of taxes paid I may have to cough up :-( Martin

Hi I have used a B6HS without any problems for the past two years on my 1969 247, both on points and Electrex world ignition systems. Regards Martin

Hi Bultaco UK have just taken delivery of a small batch 247 Mk1 and the first Mk11 (small hub, extra flywheel) straight through silencers. Got it today al looks the business, but might need to make a bit of clearance around the petcock. Hammer in or cut, weld and plate. I had to completly rebuild and repack my original and whilst it is ok the original steel casing is a bit too thin in places and about to fail, looking forward to trying the new silencer out. I have been using the Elextrex World Mont 348 ignition for a year now without issue. The 348 flywheel is heavier than the 247, so earlier this year skimmed the face material off the flywheel until it matched the weight of the original 247. Bit more zip, nice. Personally I cannot fault their kit I have fitted 3 now (2 to my Sherpas, 1 to the Mont) ultra reliable. Regards Martin

Hi The yokes are parrallel to the stem. I made a jig, located the two yokes on 35mm pins one above the other split the difference on the front to back original bores and bored out to 34mm. Whilst on the jig skimmed the faces to 90 deg to the bores, then mounted them on an expanding mandrel and turned a recess 3mm deep to stop the new stepped bushes/inserts from moving. Then just reassemble. In my opinion it works fine and turns tight without washing out. Counter to this it can be lively over rocks but note unduley so, just like a modern bike. The mudguard does not hit the frame or exhaust due to the Magical spring never bottoming out. Even if they did there is still clearance. Hope this helps. Martin

Hi Well spotted! Exactly my point. Consumables. Tyres Shocks Fork springs Rims and spokes All replaced. But original are the Frame swinging arm All castings, motor gearbox, clutch internals, hubs, brakes, spindles, airfilter Forks apart from springs (not hiding Bultaco internals in AJS forks) and re machined yokes Tank in is original (not in this image) see my original post in Non standard looking sherpa. Upgrades Mikuni, well, this was a known upgrade in the 60's Electronic ignition So what I am saying is that this bike is more (has more original parts) than a lot of pre 65's and the only mods are to make it cope with modern sections. It is just a coincidence that I managed to resurect it at Easter. Kind regards Martin

Hi Tell me what is structurally not orginal!, apart from the consumable items like replacement shocks and white paint (I never did like the overall blue look). Certainly more original than a lot of the pre 65's. Martin

Hi I agree with Woody. I have been riding a 1969 Sherpa for the past 4 seasons along with a 69 Montesa 247. The substance of bikes is original apart from Magical suspension reworked original yokes, relocated footrests and electronic ignition. Apart from the ignition I was doing the same structural mods in the late sixties and early seventies. It challenges me to see what are so called pre 65 bikes that are ground up modern clones treated as though they well cared for historical relics. But I take the view we all get our kicks in different ways so live and let live, we need the sport to flourish. Where i do get confused is when a so called twinshock appears in a national series when plainly none of the parts were made or available back then. Hey Ho. Regards Martin

Distance between spindles is 1305mm. Rear adjustment at zero (front of slot). Std is 1315mm

Hi Rather than cut the frame I got the Yokes over bored, sleeved so that they were parallel to the head. I will then cut the handlebar clamps off machine and weld approx. 6 mm ahead of the stem centre line (I did this on my 69 Sherpa). I find this puts more weight over front wheel and gives better feel. Last night just fitted the Magical fork springs, preload adjusters and rear shocks (350mm long). Have used magicals since they came out and find they give a plush feel to the bike and do not bottom out, leaving plenty of clearance on the exhaust pipe. I am not a very good rider but I just like things to be right. Will post another picture after Easter and measure wheel base. Regards Martin

I use Amazon. Quick delivery cheap prices. Martin

RETURN FROM THE DEAD!! After nearly 3 years inactivity my 198a is up and running. What stared as a box of bits has had a gound up rebuild, Every bearing on the chassis and engine replaced New Mikuni Elextrex world ignition Plastic tank lined with Slosh epoxy to stop petrol vapour bleed through and then resprayed 199a Airfilter Rebore Powder coated frame. Brakes overbored and steel lined New rims and st/St spokes Brake plates polished on the pivot bearing over bored and lined Banana back box not the american (clubfoot)travesty that stifles sound and performance I could go on, but the reward was starting second kick :-) then just need to change pilot to 35 and raise the needle one notch and she is sweet. Final stage to MOT and Road register and take her out on one of the Sammy Miller rounds later in the year. At least she is not another broken wreck on eBay. Regards Martin

I think you have the answer. Riding at that level it must be common place to have two virtually identical bikes. I even heard of works riders taking Reynolds tube over to Spain to get a light weight frame made. One of my old mates bought EAA66D (i think) from S M and it was a totally different spec and feel to the standard bike. Interesting isnt it! Martin

Be interesting if the engine and frame numbers were the same on both bikes. Martin

Can some one please confirm if this bike is in the Sammy Miller Museum or privately owned in the West Country. Confused in Bristol Kind regards Martin

Hi Dyno results at rear wheel are:- Max power 19bhp @ 8,500 revs Torque 14 ft lbs @ 5.200 revs Mods so far Remove spark arrestor from airfilter Full Arrows titanium and Aluminium exhaust system including Cat. Rev counter that works from just wrapping a wire 5 times around the plug lead. EBC sintered front pads. Hel braided brake lines. General thoughts after 800 miles. Quality, good solid build Fuel injection and electric start, ace. Handling on IRC trail tyres, tight holds lines well and really good all rounder. Value for money great. I droppped the front sprocket 1 tooth to 13 but reverted to original to make sure I keep within the NSL's. Could not be faffed to work it out but can get a corrector module if i want. Perhaps! Use Saturday ride out for breakfast. Observing for the IAM No off road as yet!! Hope you find this on interest. Regards martin

The Clymer manual is availble on Amazon. Dave is correct, there are three lengths of dowel pin. Output shaft pins are .827" for the sliding member between 1st and 2nd, the other sliding on the output shaft is 4th gear which requires the .957" pin The input shaft has dowels the are .761". On my early 69 model Cota these lengths were incorrect (not by a lot) so I just put the shortest set on the input and played around with the others. It is all pretty obvious when you get going. Remember the gearbox shims are only in the R/H crankcase and the end play is 4 thou, any more and you will get clutch judder. While you have the motor apart check the kickstart shaft bushes and replace if loose. Regards Martin

Hi Use a vernier to measure the O/D and then the pitch of the thread. If it is the same as my 1969 Cota it will be M14 x 1.5. But check! Regards Martin

Hi I have done 6 trials with the Mont since changing from points. No problems starts promptly and it runs sweet. However, my engine has been totally rebuilt, apart from reboring which it did not need. So, yes, I would recommend the Electrex World system. Some people have said that the flywheel key can shear, but my experience is that this only happens if the taper is in poor condition or the nut has not been torqued up to 75ft/lbs. The key is only there to time the flywheel not drive it! So up to you! Kind regards Martin

http://www.google.co...5&tx=131&ty=120 Hope this helps until I can take a pic. Basically it is a cheaper version of the Skyfall stunt bike the CRF250R. Keep it pinned in first, second, third and fourth and boy does it fly. Not as quick or as light as a KTM but a lot less to buy and more reliable and it brings a smile by the mile! Sorry! Even geared down it does 80mph. Martin

Hi Just bought a CRF250L, and WOW!!!! Value for money,well made and ideal for casual green laneing. Already taken the firetrap off the airfilter, dropped the front sprocket by 1 tooth and onto the Dyno @ JHS Racing Saturday. It comes with street legal IRC's that stick like **** to a blanket. Kind regards Martin

If your colleague or you have had to knock a flywheel off then you need help. The flywheel has a thread in the middle to which you insert a puller, simply grip the outside diameter of the flywheel (tool required) and tighten centre bolt to brake the taper. If you have not got the tools then get them! Compared with the effort without they are worth every penny. Contact Bultacouk I did and it really makes life easy. Sorry to be blunt but correct tools make life easy. Further if you want a diagram of the wiring they can provide it. Good luck and Kind regards Martin

Hi Andy Rear spokes 191mm from back of bend Front spokes 231mm from back of bend. Bend abour 85 degrees with app 3mm from bend to swage at base of spoke. Spoke dia 3.1mm or nearest wire guage. This applies to the small hub equal length both sides versions from 1970 , but not sure when the hubs changed to longer one side.. Look up Central Wheels Birmingham uk cost app £69 for a set of 36 St/St spokes with Nipples. Hope this helps. Martin

Hi Progress so far. Done two Sammy Miller rounds. Ignition system works fine, much better spead of power and more important, easier starting. Gone back to .028" plug gap. Still using the heavier flywheel (3.7 not 3.0kg) which seems fine. Elextrex world system is simple and works for me! Just got to improve my riding!!!! Regards Martin

In October 1968 I was the proud owner of one of the first BIG HUB Cota 247's. It came with fabricated steel yokes painted in hammer silver and no chain guard or tensioner. Ran it for two years and regretted selling it for 43 years. I now have a Mk11 (1969/70) with original steel yokes, but small hubs and the original rims and I love it. It gets better every week, shame it's rider does not!!!! Oh well Cotswold Cup Sunday. Regards Martin