i have a quadbike just like that, it has low compression and the spark is weak along with the carb playing up but when its hot it starts and runs like a dream, i find a quick overhall of the carb befor starting it helps aswell as heating the plug up before starting,
heating the plug up will make it easier for the spark to jump the gap therefor if it starts after the plugs heated up you know its somewere around that!
-power175
Hmm ok so how should I heat it up? So if it starts easier with it heated up then I could have a weak spark for whatever reason?
The float shut off needle could be allowing fuel past due to dirt/wear which may explain the flooding issue when the bike was parked with the tap on, however, even with the tap off (make sure it's not on reserve position) it may still flood with fuel from a leaking tap. I had a problem on a 2004 GG, when the tap was turned the internal seal turned with the tap due to its locating peg being worn, this led to fuel starvation and engine cutting out briefly on long trails between sections, then when turning the tap off it effectively turned it on and would occasionaly flood when parked up. Hillarious.
Thanks, but I've checked the tap, and when its off no fuel gets passed.
It's about time I cleaned the carb anyway, but will this even help as the tap seems to be doing its job?
Thinking about it it may have developed this issue at around the same time i fitted a new plug, i'll try the old plug if I've still got it around.
Had the bike a year, always started first or second kick when cold or hot, new plug fitted and gapped within the last month or so, new fuel, sparking OK etc. But, the last 3 times I've gone to take it out it's refused to start from cold, its taken 30+ kicks and when it finally does go its all bogged down and smokey like its flooded. When it first happened a couple of weeks ago I took the plug out to check the spark and the plug was wet, so guessing its somehow flooding itself while sat in the garage?! So last week I shut the fuel off (usually leave it on and its been fine), but went to start it again this week and ended up with the same problem as above?
Worth noting that once it has finally cold started, it hot starts fine for the whole day with zero running issues.
So what could cause just cold starting to play up? should I try a different plug gap? Or could the pilot jet be blocked?
If I see a 300 local ish I'll go have a look. Hard to tell where I fit in really, currently ride a 280cc with no flywheel weight and a quick throttle and I find it fine.
Unless of course mines not actually a 280, am only assuming as it has 280 written on the air filter cover, any other way to tell?
From what I've read here the 300 has got a lot of bottom power, or grunt, but isn't as snappy as the 280. In other words the 300 has more controllable power.
I've got a 280 with a slow throttle and a low compr. head and i.m.o. also lots of controllable power and grunt.
Well thats confused me even more then cause I ride a 280 with quick throttle and like the power delivery/snappyness.
Can anyone comment on how the two engines differ with regard to riding? Currently on the hunt for a 2011 280 (as I currently already have a 280 and get on well with the engine) but can't seem to find many for sale. However I do keep seeing the odd 300cc for sale so wondering if I should get one? If the power delivery and overall weight of the bike is similar to the 280 then i'd be happy, but I'd rather not get one if its going to be a different beast to the 280.
i would personally try and go for a 2011 + bike with the new frame and exhaust. it will hold its money better i believe ... 2011 gassers haven't really changed in value in the last (almost ) 2 years, still fetching round about £2650...
there solid bikes and the quality has improved an awful lot in the last few years. if going for a 280 or a 300 check for tiny cracks in the welds up near the headstock ( i have 3 crack ). i say 280/ 300 because they tend to be ridden bye expert rider - more stress on the frame. expect normal clutch rattle, careful when starting because the idle gears chip so easy. there are some 2012s around for roughly the same money as 11s , again check for above issues. but i would avoid it if it has formula brakes fitted. dont get me started
Thanks, had the idler gear go on mine so know about that. Good tip on the frame though, will look out for that also. Looks like it'll be an '11 bike I go for then. I'd rather have a tidy '11 than a battered '12 unless a mint '12 comes up at a good price.
the one concern i had after getting my new bike home was it had a clicking noise, coming from the clutch area but if i puled the clutch in it disappeared, i went strait to the internet and i found out it's quite normal, there is a great little video on youtube about it, i don't know if the older models do it but don't let it put you off buying one if you here it, as long as the noise goes away after puling the clutch in.
Thanks yeah my current '04 does it and also my 2014 Yamaha MT09 road bike also does it!
i would go for the latest one you can afford, i have just had a 2013 txt and what a difference from my 1999 sherco, im going out on it tomorrow for the first time and my goal is to be able to do everything i can do on my sherco by the end of the day, if i drop it, so be it, from what i can see unless i have a major crash it will take quite a beating, on my last outing i lasted about 2 minuets before i went one way and my sherco went the other and snapped my clutch lever in the process but it's just part of the sport, good luck with your search.
Thanks yeah, the general feeling is that I'm happy spending anything around the £2600 as that should be a good balance between new and old (plus I just spent £7200 on a road bike, and am moving house in a few weeks so the wife would go mad if I spent 3 or 4k on another bike!), just wondering if there's a preferred year for any reason as sometimes you hear about things that were changed on a bike just for the sake of it and turn out to not as good as the previous year etc.
I hate to be the one to say it but it kinda sounds like you are not the one who should be working on the bike until you get some more knowledge, taking a carb off to look at it and putting it back on untouched just gives potential for more mistakes
If you start the bike and it stalls after 5 seconds and you do that several days in a row all you are doing is fouling the top end with fuel, it's all choked up now
Toss the old plug regardless how it looks to your eye as you cannot see carbon tracking
Start the bike and get off the choke immediately and run it til it's warm
As for diagnosis you need to have a second opinion on wether the bike has a problem or you have to just learn the starting and warmup process and maybe how to adjust the pilot air screw
I don't 100% agree with this, if your ever going to learn anything about bike mechanics then a 2 stroke trials bike is the best thing to learn on as its a simple engine in a very lightweight open frame. I've learnt everything I know so far by finding info online and doing it myself. Just concentrate on one thing at a time, say for example spend a few days online researching how to set the carb up on your particular bike then when you feel you've read enough about it go take take it off and have a go. Then move on to the next issue, and so on.
I do agree 100% though that having someone who knows trials bikes have a quick look at it to see if they can start it etc is a good idea, that will eliminate whether or not you just haven't got the knack yet. If you have any local trials clubs you should get down to one and see if anyone can take a quick look.
Looking for a newer (to me) Gas Gas 280, aside from whichever pops up at a good price/condition etc is there any particular year to avoid? I was thinking of getting a 2011 purely because it's not too new that I won't want to ride it properly for fear of scratches etc and not so old that it'll be falling apart. So if any 2009, 2010, 2011 or 2012 come up which should take preference?
I have never ridden a 280 gasser but the old JTR 330s were pretty snappy and perhaps over powerful for the average rider.
I often wonder how many riders ride a bike that is really too powerful. Loss of grip is perhaps the most frequent way of loosing marks, the more powerful the bike the harder you have to work to ride it to get a good result.
It is pretty obvious when marks are lost due to lack of power. It is much less obvious the marks saved by less power and less rider fatigue.
I suspect that 90% of riders would be better on softly tuned 200s or 250s.
As above I'm fine on the 280cc, I want to know how the 280 & 250 differ?
Cold Starting Problem...
in Gas Gas
Posted
Hmm ok so how should I heat it up? So if it starts easier with it heated up then I could have a weak spark for whatever reason?