I figure brake/clutch fluid can't be good for the fiber plates on the clutch if it gets mixed in to the gearbox oil? A little bit seeping in shouldn't do too much harm should it short term?
Will rebuild the slave anyway asap so does anyone have any info on doing this or any links etc?
Think I've made progress today. Got a DP friction plate set today, strangely it measured the same as the old pack (9.66mm), fitted it and if anything the drag was worse. Turned out my master cylinder reservoir was low on oil! Topped this up, quick bleed by pumping the lever and the clutch drag was gone! All my fingers are loose now after rebuilding the pack.
I'm guessing my slave cylinder is slowly leaking the fluid into the engine, will keep an eye on the level and have a go at the slave if need be. This an easy job?
So I figured while on top of the game I'll fit my '06+ lighter clutch spring, but all this done was create clutch slip under load! So gone back to the original spring, I couldn't get it to slip (up against a wall, 5th gear, lots of revs, slowly let clutch out and bike stalled).
Am hoping it won't slip when out riding. To me though a pack thats under size should slip yes? So why did the DP pack come undersize out of the box?
3x fiber plates are 2.3mm each
2x steel plates are 1.4mm each
Total thickness = 9.7mm (should be 9.75/9.85mm) So don't know what thats all about?
I fit the dp clutch straight from the box. All fine! The fingers should move, thats fine, just make sure all the fingers are sat correctly when refitting, mine wasnt and it f***ked my release bearing.!
Make sure the washer goes back on the kick start shaft as well
Hey dude thanks, um only two of my fingers are moving? Will call around a few shops tomorrow morning then and try to get a DP set sent to me next day :-)
Trying to go from the floor straight to the back wheel being on the log (not sure if this a double blip or what?), anyway so far i'm managing to compress the forks on the log then i'm trying to spring the back wheel straight up, but as you can see in the video the back wheel isn't really jumping up. I can definitely feel that i'm making a difference to the back wheel as it seems like its gone really light and is floating over the log rather than banging in to it and hanging up.
So what do I need to do here, is it just that I need to work on compressing the rear suspension more/harder/faster on the approach?
As per my other thread, I have awful clutch drag (bike will just stall if stopped on the brakes), just taken the plates out and have a couple of questions.
1. Is the clutch pack tolerance for a Gas Gas Pro 9.75mm/9.85mm? Read in a thread on here that it is 9.75mm/10.05mm, but searching elsewhere online I keep finding 9.75mm/9.85mm?
2. When measuring clutch pack, do you measure across the the fiber pads? If so mine measures between 9.63mm & 9.66mm depending where you measure. (See pic below) If that's correct then mines far too thin on the overall thickness so a new pack is needed.
3. Does anyone know if the DP clutch pack for the Gas Gas Pro fall into the right tolerance off the shelf or is any fettling required?
4. Two of my clutch fingers move outwards (see pic below), is that OK? The rest don't seem to move?
4. What is this ring/washer that is half way down my starter shaft (see pic below)? And is it supposed to be like that? In the 2nd pic you can see that it is not a full ring, it looks like a split washer of some sort?
5. Lastly, reading the thread on here I gather that a clutch pack that is too thick will cause drag, but my pack is too thin so why is mine dragging? Shouldn't mine be slipping instead? (which it's not btw)
Even with my hand its real hard to get neutral, its not an issue of finding it, it just won't go in. I know most trials bikes are a pain to get in but yesterday it was especially bad. Might try ATF next then and find out more about burning the clutch.
The drag is enough that bike will happily ride along by itself with lever pulled in, which means I'm holding it on the brakes in close sections which in turn is causing stalls :-(
My '04 TXT Pro has clutch drag and its also started to get quite hard to get into neutral (both symptoms are present after the bikes warmed up), I've watched the gasgas video on setting up the clutch lever so thats OK, have also read the long thread on friction plate thicknesses and I don't have any spare plates so can't mix and match. So my two options are switching to ATF, or I read somewhere on here about burning in the clutch so advice needed on both?
I've read mixed views on ATF, some people say its fine and others say it can eat away friction plate fiber?
Also is burning the clucth in recommended? I've heard you park up against a wall, rev the bike and drop the clutch in 3rd gear, that right? I'm assuming the back wheel has to stay locked in order to slip the clucth?
You need to set your camera to a higher shutter speed on some of your photos to prevent blurry subject and sharp background. Really good sports photographers use expensive lenses that blur out the background so your eye focuses on the subject.
Thats nothing to do with an expensive lens, its just depth of field and focus.
To be honest I think its stalling more when I'm doing stoppies down hill. I do have a bit of clutch drag so thats not going to help if I'm on the rear brake, but I think the clutch plate thicknesses would need looking at Iin order to dial out the drag.
Bike is an '04 280 Pro, runs fine, not had it too long but had it in some quite steep positions yesterday and it would tend to stall when held with the nose down on a steep hill.
Couple Of Clutch Questions (With Photos) - Help Needed Today :-)
in Gas Gas
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Thanks, do I need to drain the fluid?