A mates just text ma asking how much play there should be on the piston on his '09 EVO 250? Think he's got the barrel off so what slack should there be between the piston and bore, and also should there be any movement on either end of the con rod?
Currently riding an '04 280cc, love the snappiness of the engine and the power curve. Want a newer bike this winter which will either be an '11 EVO or an '11 GasGas. I'm leaning towards the GasGas as I'm really at home on mine so the question is, if I dropped down to a 250cc will I loose the snap and power of the 280cc?
Would a newer 2011 250cc be anything like my older 280cc? Just want to know what I need to be looking for as a 250cc might come up at a good price etc. I'm quite determined though so if it's a 280cc I need then that's what I'll get.
What bike have you got now how much do you weigh ? You can tailor bikes to your style but with an older bike its often a matter of just ensuring mechanically they are ok.
Currently on an '04 GasGas TXT Pro 280 but looking to switch to an '11 Beta EVO 250/290cc over the winter. The current GasGas is OK for now so its the new Beta that I want to work some magic on. Current weight is 83KG I think.
the evo's are absolutely easy to start weather it be a 200 0r a 300 factory! no snap back no standing on both pegs to get it to kick over, if you have a leg then you have no worries my friend!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome, deffo getting a little annoyed with the GasGas as it always has to be done up on the pegs. My old Rev3 270 would start so easily.
Never owned a 250 before, Only had a go on one once, I found the 250 nice and smooth, As were the 290/300 wants to go a bit more, The throttle response is a bit more aggressive on the bottom end, But I found swapping from the 290 to the 300 was different, The 300 seemed slightly less snappy but had more low down torque, Which I found better to be honest, You need to try them to know which you prefer best,
We've just switched from a 2011 Beta Evo 250 to a 2014 Evo 300. I find that the new 300 does take a bigger kick and a bit more respect as it's more likely to kick back if you pussy foot it. But saying that it still starts first or second kick, hot or cold. Great Bikes the Evo's
Thanks, does it always require you to be up on both pegs to start it? My GasGas 280 will not start if I keep one foot on the ground, I'd like to be able to start it mid section with a foot on the ground when I stall it.
I'm leaning towards an '11 EVO for my next bike, and as my last 2 bikes have been Rev3 270cc & GasGas 280cc I'm thinking about the EVO 290cc. I know the 280/300cc GasGas's are a bitch to start as a general rule so are the EVO's the same? The 270cc Rev3 I had a few years back was very easy to start.
Made a little 1mm spacer to go between the outer cable and the throttle tube and thats given me enough tension to allow me to get back on the threaded adjuster.
Also found that I already have a white throttle tube so the one I've just bought will have to wait for my new bike. The throttle doesn't feel quick though :-( It was full of grey dried up gunk and worn plastic so guessing its a bit worn. Either way its all cleaned up, greased and adjusted properly now.
If all your adjustments are maxed out, some guys shorten the cable by clipping it shorter and fitting a new stop (little lead ball that hooks into the slide). I have crimped new stops onto cables but should the stop fail, itll full into your carb and get sucked in.
if you dont want to buy a new cable, rather put a spacer in by one of your adjusters.
Ah ok that makes sense, didn't realise the stop was crimped on, so that means throttle cables are set lengths tailored for different bike models then.
I agree with nelly, buy a new cable....however it is very unlikely that a throttle cable has stretched as not much force is applied at all.
I would suggest against adjusting length on the slide side because if the new cable stop is not thoroughly secured to the cable, it can fail/fall off and will get sucked right through your motor.
It'll take an age and a lot of noise to grind through a decent chain, they are hardened. If you've ever tried filing some hardened steel then you'll know why the grinder will also find it difficult.
I've ran out of adjustment on the threaded adjuster on the cable down near the carb, adjuster is all the way out but I still have a ton of free play at the throttle tube. So I'm guessing I'll have to adjust it where it is secured inside the carb? So before I pull it apart how is the cable secured inside the carb? And how do I know how much to adjust it by?
I fugure once the carb is assembled that when I let off the throttle tube I'll need to make sure I hear the slide in the carb snap shut, other than that, any tips?
If I was you I would save the money on getting it set-up professionally and find someone in your club who knows about these things (there's always someone, expert or ex-experts who have been riding for years etc), buy them a case or beer in exchange for their help. Hopefully they can watch you ride various obstacles and from watching how the bike is reacting start tweaking. You would also learn from them to allow you to adjust future bikes or impart this info to others. Lastly they should also be setting it up with the venues you ride in mind, i.e. northern rocks or southern mud may have a different settings.
Also look at all the controls, clutch bite point, lever position, bar positions, rear brake position as its gotta be a whole package.
Cheers,
Gary.
Yeah thanks that was plan B I guess, tbh though I very rarely see someone who's really good. And as they seem to appear very rarely I'd rather not bombard them with questions.
I gues plan C is just learn it all myself bit by bit over the winter in the garage but my main problem with that is that depending on where you look or who you talk to online you'll always get different answers which was what led me to wanting to find someone in the know.
Anyone know of anywhere that'll be able to set a bikes suspension up to a particular riding style and rider weight and generally set up a bike properly, preferably somewhere in the South West/Midlands?
Had trials bikes for a few years now but never really got the hang of fine tuning a bike to be spot on. All of my bikes so far have been set up by me and have been pretty reliable and work OK, but I'm no expert and generally just function on common sense so my bikes seem to be lacking that little extra touch of a pro.
My suspension always seems to be under serviced and a bit soft and sloppy as I know sod all about it, and although my engines have always started on second kick (sometimes first) they seem to lack the crispness and life that others seem to have.
I'm not adverse to learning these things over time but I'm looking at getting a newer bike this winter (2010/2011 Evo 250/290cc etc) and figured it would be nice to have it prepped properly so I can get the most out of it rather than always be wondering if it's set up correctly. Also we have limited good weather here so would much rather spend it riding than wrenching.
To increase the pre load you would have to make some spacers to fit between the spring and the fork cap.
I used the plastic centre from a roll of insulation tape was the perfect size, then cut it round the middle to make two x 10mm spacers. It might not sound much but it made quite a difference.
Ahh that'll be why I couldn't figure it out then. Well as the bikes being sold soon I'll probably not bother messing messing about to that extent.
On the other subject of a bouncy setup, whats need to achieve that? So far I have my compression all the way out and my rebound all the way in IIRC.
Need a little info here, trying to set my suspension up, I guess I'm aiming for 1/3 race sag, and my preferred riding style would be described as hoppy & bouncy.
I weigh 87KG and the bike is an '04 pro 280cc
So what actual adjustment do I have without changing oils or springs? The rear sag I'm guessing can be set by adjusting the preload. So what about the front, all I see are screws marked "C" & "R" which I'm guessing are Compression & Rebound, so how do I set the preload?
Also with regards to a bouncier bike, what should I be adjusting?
I don't want to go replacing the springs as I'm selling the bike this winter, just want to get it somewhere handy for the next few months riding.
if you are wanting the best chain lube, that is dry and does not get filled with mud ( its not very sticky and its quite thin ) then this is the best stuff , local dealer says this is what they put on when they ship the bike out from the factory. its like a ceramic wax. i use it every ride and it is great. it doesnt get all gunked up!!
Wilko's 'loosen up' maintenance spray, £1 a can, excellent as a light chain lube and maintenance spray after washing, it leaves a light wax like coating once dry.
That more of a degreaser like WD40 or does it have some actual lubrication/protection ingredients in it like silicone and teflon etc?
Great Bikes the Evo's 
How Much Play In Piston?
in Beta
Posted
A mates just text ma asking how much play there should be on the piston on his '09 EVO 250? Think he's got the barrel off so what slack should there be between the piston and bore, and also should there be any movement on either end of the con rod?