searay175

I have been trying to resolve a dragging clutch. I flushed the line as the old fluid was nasty. The pin hole in the master cylinder was plugged and I have been able to get it open. I have tried the method as shown on utube but can only get any fluid up through the pinhole when I have the new master cyl kit just in the master cavity, as soon as I push it all the way in and put the c-clip on I can not possibly force and fluid through the line and master cyl like they show. Has anyone had this problem? It is on a 92 320

I have a fuel shutoff that leaks when in the off position on my 93 320. If it is not quite at the full off position its ok. My question is, is there any remedy for these much like the old Yamahas with the rubber disc that can be flipped over? i have yet to take it apart to see what the inner works are like and don't want it to leak in all positions as I am getting by now. Thanks!

I tried the repaint also, sure looks nice for about 3 weeks! I recently stopped at a vinyl sign shop in my city and the gal said she had a very thin vinyl that was perferated with holes, I never could detect holes and quite flexible.She gave me a piece to try. So I cleaned all the old blistered paint off, and made a half a-------d attempt at applying it, same results looks ok from 50feet and starts to wrinkle after 2-3 weeks. A new plastic skin would be great but the aftermarket manufacterer here in the U.S. doesn't make one and won't as they claim there's not enough market for the tank skins. I had kicked around the idea of trying to make a skin out of fiberglass cloth and resin but soon realized I would have lots of time and money tied up in a failed attempt. If you search the entire forums you will find several posts with ideas and mixed results, most poor. If they only came new in a ugly yellowed white new no one would care. Good luck!

I started going over the bike tonight and wish I had put penetrating oil on the slave bleeder as it twisted off in the banjo bolt. I have it soaking and hope to be able to remove it with heat and a easyout. Not sure if it is a std brake bleeder. The choke lever hits the bottom of the tank as it stays in the open position fine with the tank off.

Thanks Jon! I'll check the carb when I get to the "new to me going over this weekend" I've read many of your posts from the Yamaha forums and appreciate your knowledge. I went to trials last weekend to ride my TY350 only to try this 320 and bring it home. It seems to have a big flywheel, much like the TY as it "tractors" or will chug down pretty good. Thanks! Steve

I just picked up a 92 320. I have a few issues to sort out. #1 the choke lever will not stay in the on or lifted position. I can start it by holding the lever up but it's a pain. I have yet to take it apart to check it out so if anyone has had this happen let me know the results. #2 The clutch doesn't disengage all of the time. I am planning to bleed the hydraulic lines and change the gearcase oil. Thanks! New to the Gas Gas from vintage Yamaha's

Thanks!Looks like it will be tires/tyres! Now will it be Michelin's or Irc's?

What would be the best bang for the buck? I have a ty250A It has about 40% Michelin x11 trials tires and stock shocks. Would I be better off with new Betors or comparable shocks or a new set of sticky Michelins or IRC'S.I ride mostly rock.

On a ty250a. Is the spark plug wire or high tension wire replaceable? I have replaced the cap or boot and terminal on the plug end but the wire is very hard and almost brittle. My concern is does the wire "thread" on to a treaded stud like the terminal end does? I don't want to go twisting on the wire and ruin the coil if it is a permanantly fixed wire in the coil. If it is replacable is there a special type wire or will any good 7-8mm wire core wire work? Thanks! Steve

I feel confident that I cured my intermitant ignition issues just yesterday with new points and condensor, cost for quality points ,condensor and flywheel puller was $40 usd. For my TY I would rather spend the $500 on a seat tank unit or new trials shocks.

I noticed the mention of"tank cover" so was there someone making tank skins or covers for the plastic mono tanks back in the day I haave yet to see one on the flea bay but here in the states there is very little that shows up for the mono's

Is there any product here in the states that works well for decoking? I have read of "caustic soda" but not sure where I can get it or if there is a brand name for it? Would a hot tank at a machine shop work? I have not found a d.y.i. on this on your blog. Thanks!

The main thing I am hoping to cure is during a event is I stay out of heavy throttle which I normally never need all is well but between sections if I open it up and go through the gears it will bog down and quit sometimes it starts right back up but then I have to "nurse" the throttle back up and it will be O.K. as long as I don't have a steep hill to climb. I always keep a couple plugs along and that helps for awhile. This was a barn find and I have no idea what shape or how old the points and condensor are. I have a new B&J Mikuni set up on it and Boyseen reeds from the same. New carb filter, oem petcock and open vent for the fuel cap. I did notice the last time while replacing the plug that the boot has a split in it so I will replace that as well. I do use the b7es plugs at 22

I will be installing new points and condensor in my ty250a to try to cure some of it's ills. I have the origonal service manual, is it necessary to remove the head and use a dial indicator for the true before tdc readings or can they be replaced and set with a feeler gauge to specs. It probably a good idea to remove the head and clean the carbon off but do you really have to pull the cylinder and clean the ring grooves etc as the manual recommend yearly? If so can form a gasket work for the cylinder base or must one use a oem gasket?

I want to get a flywheel puller for my ty250a. I believe it is a 27mmx1.0 left hand external thread but not for sure. Ty250 specific pullers seem to be priced 2-3 times more than any with the same threads for for example a mx, dt etc. Thanks for any input

Thanks Jon! I have a new B&J vm26 on my ty250 that I may try and I have a new 2 wire kill switch in my shop. I will try that and see what happens next outing.I have been gapping the plug at 28 maybe thats a little too much.

I have a 85 ty350 and it starts fine when cold (3rd kick)and it starts right back up if it is shut down breifley or kill it but if it sits for lets say 15-30 minutes it is a bear to fire back up. I usually try with out the choke as it is warm and sometimes I can kick it over 20 times or more before it fires back up and the choke does not help. It has a fresh plug ,fresh fuel and the jets and carb and filter are clean. Any ideas? Timing maybe? Thanks!

I have a TY250a that I have a stalling issue with. What happens is it starts normal 3rd kick,runs well at lower rpms and during a hard accelleration (say between sections) it justs loses all power but will usually stay running or will start right back up. This issue happened yesterday as I had been riding typical section practice and stopped to talk for about 10 minutes and when accellerating after starting it fell flat again.It has a new Mikuni B&J carb, Power reeds,air filter. I have pulled the carb off many times after these occurances and it and the jets are all clean as new. The gas cap is venting fine also. I do notice that the fuel hose between the petcock and the filter always has a good sized air bubble in it and does not have a high point in it to trap the air. I have yet to look at the points.

I have to wonder if the stock vintage silencers are even legal these days. From what I am told the forrest cops have a wire that they put in the silencer and if it can go straight through it's not legal. The stock ones on my Yams are wide open but still carry the U.S forrest service approved stamp.

I got it fixed! A $3.17 Yamaha part. the little plug is tapped in and sealed. Hopefully there is not an internal problem that caused it to be pushed out. Thanks!

The plug I believe it may be is # 19 in the shifter #1 breakdown of the online yamaha parts diagram. Only thing is they show the same plug on a c model also so I may be wrong. The plug is only a $3 part and quite common for many other models #90334-10006-00

Thanks Feetupfun! You are spot on! In your pic of the "d" model the hole is closed and in the "a" model pic it looks to have a plug. To avoid any confusion the shaft hole in question is just to the left or 11:00 position from a straight line between the shift lever shaft and sprocket shaft. My "C" model is a closed casting also but there is no plug in the case on the "A" model. In looking at the Yamaha parts breakdown it appears that there is a plug shown in the diagram. Maybe that is what I need, if so I can have a machinest fab one. Thanks! Steve

It is not the large flat black rubber plug that is leaking but rather the hole directly below the sprocket. Even in the pics on ebay this cast bushing is open.

I have just recently developed a gearcase oil leak on my Ty250a. Just below the countershaft sprocket and above the shiftshaft there is a hole that is cast in the crankcase that appears to be for a shift fork shaft from inside the case. The oil is seeping from that hole. On my Ty250c this hole is closed. Is there a seal on the inside or plug on the outside? Thanks! Steve

Thanks again for the advice! I think I'll leave it as is till I pick up a "a"model flywheel. I do have a quick pull on the bike in question. On another note: they have totally different exhaust tone also. Identical exhaust 'silencer and packing. The "C" model has a low soft tone and the "A" model has a "Tang,tang,tang" note