Hi all,Is it neccesary to drain the trans oil before removing the clutch cover on a 03, 125 pro?

Cheers.

Yes, it is necessary to drain the oil.

Yes, it is necessary to drain the oil.

I haven't got a pro but 3 of my mates have.

I think I've seen the clutch-plate-pack out with the bike flat on it's gear shift side????No draining required??

Edited November 26, 200718 yr by HAM2

If you have enough room then you can lay it down and take it out with out draining like HAM says , upto you really...

Hi all,Is it neccesary to drain the trans oil before removing the clutch cover on a 03, 125 pro?

Cheers.

Actually, laying the bike on it's left side is the best way. You don't have to drain the oil, as mentioned, but you'll find the plates and fingers line up better. With the bike straight up, it's easy to have the lower fingers on the clutch flop out a little by gravity and get hung up on top of the servo cylinder bearing plate as the sidecover is being put on. Just be careful when installing the sidecover and use your fingers to hold the special washer and thrust bearing up until the servo cylinder "top hat" end clears the fingers. Also be careful to align the pin on the waterpump with the slots on the crank bearing. I like to take the pump off and ziptye it against the pipe and when re-installing it, move the crank enough to have one of the slots line up with the lower waterpump capscrew hole and move the pin on the pump to also line up with the lower mounting hole.

Cheers.

Jon

Actually, laying the bike on it's left side is the best way. You don't have to drain the oil, as mentioned, but you'll find the plates and fingers line up better. With the bike straight up, it's easy to have the lower fingers on the clutch flop out a little by gravity and get hung up on top of the servo cylinder bearing plate as the sidecover is being put on. Just be careful when installing the sidecover and use your fingers to hold the special washer and thrust bearing up until the servo cylinder "top hat" end clears the fingers. Also be careful to align the pin on the waterpump with the slots on the crank bearing. I like to take the pump off and ziptye it against the pipe and when re-installing it, move the crank enough to have one of the slots line up with the lower waterpump capscrew hole and move the pin on the pump to also line up with the lower mounting hole.

Cheers.

Jon

I've just remembered a review of the 08 bikes in an online magazine(can't find the link) where GasGas explain about the new gear-shift 'failure-pin' and how they expect the owner to change it in 'the field'.

Can anyone find the link ?I think it was an American motocross mag with a trials bike supplement?

I've just remembered a review of the 08 bikes in an online magazine(can't find the link) where GasGas explain about the new gear-shift 'failure-pin' and how they expect the owner to change it in 'the field'.

Can anyone find the link ?I think it was an American motocross mag with a trials bike supplement?

Sounds like a great idea, but I haven't heard of it yet. I looked in the 08' Owner's Manual and didn't see anything mentioned (I don't have the 08' parts manual yet so I couldn't scan the schematics) but I wonder if they aren't confusing it with the older design (like the "Edition" models) that have a shear pin in the shift racheting mechanism that would shear when the shift lever, with the engine in gear-under load, got thumped hard by a rock (something I'm good at). You would be stuck in whatever gear you were in but it would probably save a complete strip-down to replace bent shift forks.

Jon

Sounds like a great idea, but I haven't heard of it yet. I looked in the 08' Owner's Manual and didn't see anything mentioned (I don't have the 08' parts manual yet so I couldn't scan the schematics) but I wonder if they aren't confusing it with the older design (like the "Edition" models) that have a shear pin in the shift racheting mechanism that would shear when the shift lever, with the engine in gear-under load, got thumped hard by a rock (something I'm good at). You would be stuck in whatever gear you were in but it would probably save a complete strip-down to replace bent shift forks.

Jon

It was definitely the 08 pro ,it was only a few weeks ago that I read it,it also mentioned the new steering head angle..I'm sure the link to it was posted on this web-site....anyone out there remember where the link is??

www.motocrossdigital.com

September issue i think!

All that they were talking about replacing was the shift shaft return spring holder that slots into the end of the shift shaft

www.motocrossdigital.com

September issue i think!

All that they were talking about replacing was the shift shaft return spring holder that slots into the end of the shift shaft

Cheers Spinner, that's the one....

That review re-enforces my point..the manufacturer expects you to carry around:-

4mm allen key

5mm allen key

spare link

a screwdriver...

...so you can(without draining the transmission or coolant) remove:

kick-start

water pump

r/hand engine cover

clutch unit

All done with your bike covered in 'klarts' (see Geordie dictionary) half way around a trial!!

Is that idea....

A)Pure genius or

B)Totally retarded .

....you choose ?

P.S. I can't knock the journalism....very technical beats TMX anyday!

I have just had to do this on my bike, i took it home first. I dropped it when going up a very small rock step.

Not easy.

worst points. 1. doing it with just verbal instructions over teh phone. 2. when the hydraulics press on the clutch they do so through a needle roller bearing. all of these rollers are loose in the cage. i lost them all twice before greasing them up to lock them in place. I wonder if this small amount of grease did any damage? all seems to work well now

I have just had to do this on my bike, i took it home first. I dropped it when going up a very small rock step.

Not easy.

worst points. 1. doing it with just verbal instructions over teh phone. 2. when the hydraulics press on the clutch they do so through a needle roller bearing. all of these rollers are loose in the cage. i lost them all twice before greasing them up to lock them in place. I wonder if this small amount of grease did any damage? all seems to work well now

graham,

I'd replace that roller bearing washer before I'd ride the bike anymore, just to be safe. The little amount of grease should not do any harm, but that is a captured roller bearing thrust washer (the washer holes are pressed over on the edges to hold the rollers in place) and they should NOT fall out of the washer when it is removed.

I doubt that they will fall out under the slight pressure the spring inside the servo cylinder post exerts, but they are obviously worn to the point that the decreased diameter lets them come out of the peened part of the steel cage and that may cause them to chatter and possibly disintegrate and they can do a lot of damage. Be sure to "re-assemble" the little rollers in the old washer when you remove it to be sure one isn't missing and look carefully at the wear pattern on the tophat and the washer that presses on the fingers to see if they need to also be replaced. If there is any roughness in the wear patterns, it will cause premature failure of the new roller thrust bearing.

Jon

thanks for that Jon, could save me loads of money, I thought it was strange.

Graham