Sitting in the garage soldering some wires together I thought to my self "I wonder if this would melt plastic"

So I got an old sherco mudguard and cut the back bit off, I got the soldering iron and started to "fuse" both sides together, I did both sides and it seems like a good fix and seems quite strong.

so if you snap your mudguard keep the bits, this way means you can have a few (slightly ugly) but working spares.

its ok but not strong .just look at it the wrong way and it will snap .better with the bit alluminium plate underneath and pop rivett method .ugly but strong

I've used the soldering method quite a few times but mostly on road bikes (inside the panel where its not seen). Works fine but not very strong.

Be very wary of the fumes though ! Cyanide really isn't good for you !!!!

I've 'hinged' a few back mudguards or used tie wraps on past trials bikes (when I was skint), easy to fix when it breaks again !

GJ

Also to make it stronger cut up abit of old Inner tube and slide it over where the crack is it will hold the mudguard together stronger.

I have welded neumerous fenders in the past some good some not so good. The real trick is to get the dirt out and to use the correct rod.

PP welding rod

Specialty welders are pretty cheap too.

Plastic welder

I have yet to find a modern trials bike that does not have a poly propylene fender. If you look on the underside for the markings cast into the remaining parts of the fenders you will probably find a date stamp and a material stamp. PP = poly propylene ABS = Butyle styrene PE = Polyethlene. Most of the time if its all the way broken across you need to add reinforcement under neath.

--Biff

Doesn't help on a broken rear but what I used to do was remove the bolts and use those push in car trim fixings. If you catch the mudguard they tend to pop off rather than breaking the mudguard