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Tiger Cub Clutch Adjustment?

Featured Replies

One is probably where the alternator wire normally exits the chaincase via a grommet, the other a drain plug?

Can i suggest that you bung them up? An old bit of wood should do! :wub:

Roger

Honda Pants

Now you have a old rusty washer for a woodruff Key, A old bit of wood, and a drip tray. And a Haynes Manual written in Hieroglyphics.

Your doing really well Pal

Stick a few pics up of the problems Honda Pants

Vinnie :wub:

There is usually only 1 drain hole, tapped 3/16 BSF if i remember correctly. The alternator wire hole (usually used for the PVL) comes through the back of the casing, behind the barrel and on on top of the gearbox.

You need some oil in there to lube the chain and the clutch bearing if nothing else.

I have heard of people removing the oil seal behind the engine sproket and then drilling holes from the chain case back into the crank case about 1" up from the bottom of the chain case. The idea is that engine oil contantly tops up the chain case, excess oil then drains back to the crankcase and is scavenged by the pump.

Edited by alan

Cub clutches are not the strongest of units at the best of times.

To avoid shearing woodruff keys you need to lock the clutch centre nut with the tab washer or just plain locktight.

Do not over tighten the nut or the clutch centre will crack on the key slot rendering it useless and shearing keys will be the norm.

If you have the non standard 16t engine sprocket then clutch slip when kicking up will be a problem. Some riders have resorted to valve lifters!

I use a small amount of ATF in the casing, just enough to keep the chain damp. Modern synthetic oils will only cause more clutch slip.

The holes shown in your photobucket are the drain and level plugs.

If you are getting clutch drag then it may be that the pressure plate is not running evenly when the clutch is opened.

Adjust the 3 springs to run without wobbling when spun with the kickstart (clutch open). Not something you have to worry about with your TLR of course.

The alloy pressure plate is worth the investment as it gives more even pressure and looks good!

Once you get it right, a clutch lightener is also recommended.

Good luck - you'll need it.

Edited by Stickinthemud

  • Author

Thanks for all this helpful info, I am looking forward to spending the next 12 months in the shed!!!!! :wub:

Having your side stand on the right keeps the clutch out of the oil, and causes less slip when kicking over.

Also try trialsbits.co.uk for parts.

Hi i have just sent you a haynes manual in imperial english that explanes everything :wub::P

  • Author

Good, I have just sent you an English Dictionary you thick Garston Mud Man! :wub::P

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Well, I rode the Cub in earnest last Sunday and after following all the advise offered to me from fellow forum members duly won my class!! The bike ran as sweet as a nut with no clutch problems whatsoever. I carried out the pressure plate mod and also the sprocket cover mod up to now very good. The only problem i had was that on a number of occasions when i gave it a fistfull the bike just died, If the throttle was opened gently then no problem. The bike has a new amal and also the Serco mods done to it, any idea's I spent ages trying to adjust the mixture.

Cheers

triumph pants!!!!

The joys of a Cub. In years gone by many riders would use the "WFO" position as an AUX Kill switch, and this it does very well using the Amal. If your club doesn't let you use the Del Orto then use a slow action Throttle with the idle set up a bit. I changed to a Serco pre jetted Delorto and there are absolutely NO excuses now as power is instant off idle with no chance of stalling. A great shame you can't use them in some Pre 65 events.

Tony

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