copemech Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Well, I do appreciate that, as even I admit that my 2.9 may be smooth, the quickness is not there! I may be able to kick timing up a bit if the 24 works in limiting the mid and top "hit" ! The last 2.5 I rode was a '09, it was brisk in standard config. but still sweet! Not unlike yourself, I gotta work with what I got, still loved the '05 2.5 best! Even with the 28 it was not bad, just a bit too much at times, usually the wrong times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bostit Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Hi Neo, Thanks for that, setting the float height is as I expected but by 45Deg do you mean you tilt the carb body over so less of the float weight rests on the spring loaded float needle? I take it that if you increase the height to 21mm you are effectively reducing the level of fuel on the float bowl? Appreciate your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 by 45Deg do you mean you tilt the carb body over so less of the float weight rests on the spring loaded float needle? I take it that if you increase the height to 21mm you are effectively reducing the level of fuel on the float bowl? Hi Bostit, Yes and yes to both of your questions ...sounds like you've already worked it out.... I'll still try to post up a photo this weekend. Because I couldn't believe how hard it was to find information on the web about this. Also, try to make sure that both floats are at the same level before you set the height (if that makes sens). This needs to be done with great care. And at no time apply weight to that float needed...because the neoprene tip is easily damaged. The safest way really is to remove the pin and floats, then adjust the metal tongue bit by bit. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 By the way. I double tested my the 21mm float height yesterday by letting the front wheel drop down a good size rock, then while holding my brakes and balance, I bounced the front suspension a few times over the 30seconds or so I held the bike there. The OKO must have been horizontal during this time but the engine tone did not change one bit. I then let it roll onto the flat without throttle and waited again....no change...the mix was totally unaffected. The last test needs to be a long high hill climb....I have a midsized one (about 50m or so) near me but I'll have to ask someone else to try a really high one sometime.....Now where can I find someone that likes running out of fuel 2 thirds up a steep 100m climb Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) By the way.I double tested my the 21mm float height yesterday by letting the front wheel drop down a good size rock, then while holding my brakes and balance, I bounced the front suspension a few times over the 30seconds or so I held the bike there. The OKO must have been horizontal during this time but the engine tone did not change one bit. I then let it roll onto the flat without throttle and waited again....no change...the mix was totally unaffected. The last test needs to be a long high hill climb....I have a midsized one (about 50m or so) near me but I'll have to ask someone else to try a really high one sometime.....Now where can I find someone that likes running out of fuel 2 thirds up a steep 100m climb Best of balance. Neo Just put the front wheel on the tree or wall at your angle! Still wonder if you can get a level piccie in the plastic bowl when normal! Some of this could exceed what I woould normally attempt! Looks as though the cable length thing will be totally off with the 24 and their little bent thingie on top, just by eye, have not tried it, yet I can use the top off the K to get a proper length i suppose, as my cable has already been altered to support both the D and K. Edited October 10, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 I think the dual-vent, non-overflow, short-tube, non-exhaust interfereing, non-secondary jet, non sized thing is about ready for testing. The old intake rubber off the '05 still fits soo tight, it does not require a clamp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Thats some major surgery you've performed there Cope, is the hose on the choke size put there by you as a vent? Ever thought about seeing what that extra powerjet on top at the airbox actually does for a trials engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 That awesome stuff Cope Bur can you patronize me a bit this time .......Can you also test your Carb with that second vent, you've drilled out, blocked off.....As crazy as it sounds I seriously believe you won't need it there. And can you give us the details of how you drilled out the top vent and fitted that vertical tube? And also how you removed the bowl overflow tube? Best of luck with the testing. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Thats some major surgery you've performed there Cope, is the hose on the choke size put there by you as a vent?Ever thought about seeing what that extra powerjet on top at the airbox actually does for a trials engine Yep, that is the tube nipple as removed from the power jet, installed as the secondary bowl vent! I have little need to ride a 2.9 at WOT just to find out what that little thing is good for! The top nipple for it was a bit mis set, and the top screw was holding the nip in as much as anything, so I just soldered it up stuck it back in, and let the top screw hold it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 (edited) That awesome stuff Cope Bur can you patronize me a bit this time .......Can you also test your Carb with that second vent, you've drilled out, blocked off.....As crazy as it sounds I seriously believe you won't need it there. And can you give us the details of how you drilled out the top vent and fitted that vertical tube? And also how you removed the bowl overflow tube? Best of luck with the testing. Neo Oh, I agree totally, it is not neccessary, just simple redundancy mostly ! And as the right side lateral vent is not in a preferred or accessable position in relation to the muff becomes an almost neccessary evil! Drilling of the left vent on the Kiehin is easily done, which then becomes primary and easily accessable, but not on the Oko! A lot of this comes from my experience of running in some REAL ****ty and muddy conditions at times, add my lasiness of not wanting to have to clean things after every ride. I just want to blast it off and go on, so I require **** deflectors! Seems the overflow tube sticking up into the bowl is indeed a secondary vent, but only if the tube is run down and allowed to p***. Running up and over as in many installs only traps fuel in it, negating any benifit. I just simply took pliars and twisted to yank it out the bowl, then plugged with 1/8 ball. And as things turned out, the lower half of it was reused in the verticle tube on the right, which extends through the hole in the lateral vent shutting it off. I almost cut it off completely, yet it stands protruding uselessly. I trimmed some of the other useless bits off, allowing use of the right front hose loop on the bowl. And in the left rear of the bowl, the actual power jet passage was pinned in the bowl section with a bit of steel pin to shut the passage. On the upper part(body) the steel ball was a bit loose, so I glued one in an apperance item only, passage blocked! Edited October 13, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 (edited) Hi Bostit, Sorry for the late response.....here's my photo and you can see that this float is set to about 22mm. You can remove the choke or just hang it off the edge of a table....The angle is not critical...just rest the outlet and top on the table....it doesn't really matter if the cap is on or not. Best of balance. Neo Edited October 14, 2009 by Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Mine came at the 21 height, so I left it alone. Basically, I think you need it to where the needle just touches the seat, shuts the fuel, and the measure is made without further compression of the spring on the needle. I was wondering where the level was in Neo's clear bowl, and if it changed after a bit of bumps and jouncing things around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 I was wondering where the level was in Neo's clear bowl, and if it changed after a bit of bumps and jouncing things around? Hi Cope, I haven't set the 125 (with it's clear bowl) to 21mm yet. But you can see an example of a 19mm float height in this old photo of mine. I've never noticed a higher or lower level from this.....but it's a bit hard to see when I'm standing on the pegs Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Off topic, I know.. but a few questions on the clear bowl. Where do I get one? How much do they cost? What are they made from? They any good? Do they have the part that needs ground off? My guess here is yes. Cheers, Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 <Where do I get one?> I only know of a place in Asia...I can PM you a link if you're interested? <How much do they cost?> $11 plus postage. <What are they made from?> Plastic....that's about the extent of my knowledge of materials. <They any good?> I think so.....quite tough but you mustn't over tighten the case screws. The seals can swell...see my "OKO 24 test" <Do they have the part that needs ground off? My guess here is yes.> It does not HAVE to be ground off....(that's just a great mod that Cope's working on). But a hand file will easily file down a small ridge that's on the underside of the bowl (where the overflow tube comes out)....that would be advisable. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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