Jump to content

Montesa Cota 349 Measurement Needed


branc
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all

looking for the distance between holes on the front wheel stay, dont think mine is right as I went to fit a new cable today and it wouldnt fit

think the hole centres on the bracket is wrong.

thanks

Could have things the wrong way around also, cable adjuster is on back of the fork leg, should it be on the front wheel stay on the front?

Edited by branc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

Not sure what hub I have but it is not a conical one, seems like the hub needs to be turned clockwise a bit to get the cable to fit, shorter distance between the holes on the stay would prob work as I think its off a different bike where the cable would be attached to it rather than the fork leg.

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

The brake cable on the Honda hub, as used on the white 349's, mounts in a separate hole in the front brake stay. On the 348's and red 349's the cable mounts in the rear fender mounting boss. In both applications the center distance of the front brake stay from the fork leg hole to the brake hub is 7-5/8".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

that looks like a bultaco brake stay, it is supposed to be on the left like yours is, it looks like the right length comapred to this pic of a 200

Checked it and measurement is richt, heres a pic if that helps

wheel-1.jpg

gal_cota200.jpg

Edited by MotoVintage
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I owned an earlier red 349 with the same small front hub as yours. The abutment for the front brake cable on this bike was bolted through the mudguard mounting lug on the fork leg, above where your abutment is bolted now. This might correct your cable length.

Also on steep drops the bike had a tendency to tuck under when the front brake was on. This was caused by the torque arm being too close to the brake lever and the two binding on each other when the brake was on hard. A small amount of material had to be filed from the edge of the torque arm with a half round file to correct this.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
I owned an earlier red 349 with the same small front hub as yours. The abutment for the front brake cable on this bike was bolted through the mudguard mounting lug on the fork leg, above where your abutment is bolted now. This might correct your cable length.

Also on steep drops the bike had a tendency to tuck under when the front brake was on. This was caused by the torque arm being too close to the brake lever and the two binding on each other when the brake was on hard. A small amount of material had to be filed from the edge of the torque arm with a half round file to correct this.

Hope this helps.

I had to do that little filing job too but on my 348.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Thanks for all the help guys having checked everything I think the problem might be with the brake shoes, thought they had plenty of meat on them about 4mm but having adjusted the new cable etc brakes will not bite in any of the brake levers range, how much material thickness needs to be on the shoes for the brakes to work or am I missing something inside the hub?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

When new, linings are 3 to 5mm, depending on brand.

Depending on how worn the drum is, the cam may go over centre with 2-3mm still left on the linings. I suggest you inspect and measure the drum diameter and measure the OD of the linings with them installed on the backing plate. Also compare the radius of curvature of your linings against the ID of the drum. To work properly ie to touch over the whole surface, the radii should be very close to the same.

Many old bikes need the drum resleeved or machined and oversized linings fitted to restore the radii to be the same again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Now the purists may not agree, but I've compensated for brake drum wear on my 348 Cota's by adding a shim / spacer to each brake pad. The brake pads have a wear plate at the cam end. Loosen the wear plate and slip a shim of similar size to the wear plate, between the plate and the brake pad. It effectively moves the brake pad out and compensates for brake drum wear. Simple and effective.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...