Rev 3 Water In Oil

[scorpa250]

Hello all, changed the oil on my sons 125 rev3 and noticed the oil was more like milk ! done a trial today and again the oil is like milk,i checked the water and it has used a little . I take it a seal has has gone somewhere any tips before i pull it a part???

Cheers Paul .

[pudrev3]

it sounds like your cylinder head gasket matey, dont think you can get the head off without droping the engine,big job unfortunaty , sorry

[john b]

Hi

Rather than the cylinder head, more likely the impeller seal, or more likely (and costly!) the cases corrode and water seeps through (common problem - happened on my 2008 250 that I had from new) - have a look through the Beta forums - theres loads of info about it.

It's easy and cheap to change the impeller seal, just drop the water out, take the cover off and then the impeller. You will easily be able to tell if the cases are corroded - they look like a lump of cheese ! If youre lucky there is a temporary solution with liquid metal.

Hope this helps !

cheers

John

[scorpa250]

Any Ideas is this a bad case or not to bad ?? how much is a new case ?

Scorpa250

[chris morris]

yep, thats a bad case, surprised it hasn't sprung a leak yet as the outer seal has no where to sit. about

[scorpa250]

Cheers Chris will give them a ring in the morning,that sounds cheap for a cover are you sure ??

Regards Scorpa250

[twinkletoes]

From experience

[chris morris]

just looked at my reciept it was

[scorpa250]

Just ordered a new case,and seal

[nh014]

Scorpa250

Sorry as this will be too late for your repair, but in anticipation of the next one who suffers a similar fate, I repaired my 270 Rev 3, which looked much worse than yours, with some epoxy and patience with a Dremel tool.

[mrkartoom]

Looks just like the case on my '03 when I purchased it a couple seasons ago. I was told to look for this problem and lucky I did, as the case was paper-thin behind the impeller from the cavitation. I was using a dental pic to test the solidity of the case and poked right through. The cover o-ring land was wasted like yours as well, so I replaced the case.

Did you find all the info here about this problem yet? Lots to consider about the bike sitting over winter, what type of coolant you use, adding water, etc. Read this, too. I switched to the Silkolene Pro-Cool.

[lankydoug]

This kind of corrosion is caused any time the PH of the coolant get either too acidic or too base. You can buy test strips and dip them in the coolant if the PH is off you can either use additives or simply flush and change the coolant. Aluminum is especially problematic and corrodes quickly. No more coolant than any motorcycle takes there is no reason not to change it every year.

[copemech]

This kind of corrosion is caused any time the PH of the coolant get either too acidic or too base. You can buy test strips and dip them in the coolant if the PH is off you can either use additives or simply flush and change the coolant. Aluminum is especially problematic and corrodes quickly. No more coolant than any motorcycle takes there is no reason not to change it every year.

I would tend to agree with this statment. Seems Beta had a rash of this with the Magnesium cases, thought they had reverted back to the Ali cases as replacements for greater resistance in the last few years, not sure if they and when they did in production...

The PH tip is real, yet question is what would pitch it off? Preferred method of adjusting this small quantity of fluid? Other theory being purely electrolosis(queer electrons).

[lankydoug]

I would tend to agree with this statment. Seems Beta had a rash of this with the Magnesium cases, thought they had reverted back to the Ali cases as replacements for greater resistance in the last few years, not sure if they and when they did in production...

The PH tip is real, yet question is what would pitch it off? Preferred method of adjusting this small quantity of fluid? Other theory being purely electrolosis(queer electrons).

You will usually see the corrosion at it's worst where there are dissimilar metals in contact then if the fluid becomes a little acidic the reaction begins. The additives in antifreeze break down over time so the choice is to add additives or start over with new fluid that contains new additives. In the automotive shop I used to run we had quart bottles of inhibitor "A" and "B" one would raise the PH and the other would lower it, only an ounce or two would treat 2 gallons. It could be checked and adjusted every year but at the 5 year mark a complete change was in order. The anti freeze function of antifreeze would last forever it's the corrosion inhibitors and pump and seal lube that breaks down. This became more important as auto engines started using more aluminum parts to save weight. I would recommend when installing a metal seal or bearing into the case applying some sort of sealer to the edge to help insulate the metals from reacting.