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knack of starting a 200tlr


martin58
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Hi All

Just bought a honda 200 tlr what is the starting technique ie choke fully on throttle off,1/4,1/2,or full on? also I started it twice and the second time i turned off the choke to soon and it cut out i could not restart it? any idieas would be appreciated.

martin

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no real tricks - I can only use half choke on mine because the inline fuel filter gets in the way - but that's plenty. Of course we don't get very cold where I live so that helps. I start with choke then turn off after about 30 seconds - I sometimes adjust the idle up using the throttle cable adjuster on the throttle just until it warms up fully.

Make sure your carbie is clean especially the idle jet as these appear to block easily.

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Decent non resisted plug (no R in the number) clean carb etc. Full choke no throttle, may take a few kicks this time of year. Turn off choke after 30 secs or so (if that), may want half choke for a short time. They warm up fairly quickly as a rule.

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I can only use half choke on mine because the inline fuel filter gets in the way...

I posted a fix for that : )

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/32584-tlr200-fuel-line-fix/page__p__248113__hl__fuel__fromsearch__1#entry248113

New fuel filter... the OEM Honda works best and, as has been said already, clean your carb.

Edited by scooterspal
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Hi

Just to add to what has already been said, I find mine works beter if you dont kick it too hard, as in let the decompressor do the work and just push rather than kick the starter down, then let it idle a bit before opening the throtle.

Also if you do kick it over a lot check that you havent bent the kickstart stop bracket under the brake pedal.

TLTEL

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You've put the kibosh on me - my TLR won't start!!! Hopefully a blocked inline fuel filter.

Sorry about putting the kibosh on your bike! (but look on the bright side least your cricket team has started to play)

I tried starting the bike with no throttle and choke on it started 3rd kick but i tried to open the throttle to soon and then it choked up again! and then read your blog? next time i think i will have the knack many thanks

Mart

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I have never tried starting a tlr but i have had numerous honda singles including a pig of a 600. the nack i always use is to feel for top dead center, let the kick start return to the top then depress it around one inch. let it return to the top then give it a good hard kick but dont stamp on it as this can damage the kickstart mech. But as said above make sure the carb and plug is in good order first.

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my honda's (200 and 250) always start first kick

i use a hand operated valve lifter like you would use on a pre 65 4 stroke

the automatic cable thing is rubbish and when not using a valve lifter you break the kickstart or the shaft

(they where made for a 125 bike)

use good fuel proper sparkplug (ngk set the gap a bit smaller)and put the chock on when cold

when the bike runs put the chock of

best regards bob

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I replaced my fuel line and filter and re-routed as per scooterspal instructions and I'm back to one kick starts. Although I left the fuel line a little long on the carbie side and it kinks and blocks - so just checked the photo again and will shorten that and I should be sweet.

And yes Martin our cricket team has certainly started to play. I went to the first two days in Brisbane and despite Siddle's hat trick I felt we were in for a long series - but now with Johnson firing we look the goods. Melbourne should be a cracker.

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  • 2 weeks later...
 

the automatic cable thing is rubbish and when not using a valve lifter you break the kickstart or the shaft

Many folks seem to have gone the manual way but it won't hurt to make sure your OEM system is working correctly, first, before tearing if all off.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/31549-decompression-system-demystified/

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why after 3 months of good behavior is the jetting wrong. Nothing else has changed

Wiggling and removing that old (rubber?) fuel line may have dislodged some crud or rubber bits into your carb. The E10 fuels are hard on rubber lines. One reason to get away from them. I had to clean my carb after I installed the new lines. Does not take much to clog up the jets... especially the idle (slow) jet.

I use an old projector lens to make sure my jets are completely clean end to end and I have a small industrial ultrasonic parts cleaner to do a pretty thorough job of it on all the carb parts. Finally, do the reassembly in a modified "clean room" setting. Lay down some clean paper and wear plastic gloves. Finger oils will glog up that idle jet in no time.

Works for me : ).

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