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M159 Sherpa 350 casing


insultaco
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Hi

I need a new L/H Crank Case and Magneto Casing, will any other model in the range work? The old ones have been battered by a chain snapping.

Will the 158 fit? Do I have to do anything to make any other case in the range fit? I don't want to have to start cutting it about and welding etc.

Just trying to broaden my options.

Cheers

Mick

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Whereas I haven't compared them side by side, the 158 is a 250 so it's unlikely the 325 cylinder liner would fit into the crankcase mouth. Also I don't think, but not 100% certain, that the 159 onwards cylinder will fit in earlier 325 engines as they were basically an overbored 250 and have thinner liners than the later bikes.

Whereas all of the crankcase halves from different 5 speed models will probably bolt together, they aren't all interchangeable. The gearbox bearings, gearbox shafts and clutch hubs changed dimensions somewhere around 1973 (ish) So you have to match the gearbox to the casings and you also need the correct clutch hub to go with the output shaft from the gearbox.

You're better off looking for another set of 159 cases or another complete bottom end from the model 159 onwards.

Any ignition cover will fit from 1969 models onwards.

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Thanks woody, back to "that" auction site it is then...

Whats the best for of chemical weld for this area as a temporary fix? I was going to use araldite as a short term solution, at least it will stop water/mud getting in the crack/magneto. Is there a better alternative? I'd rather not go down the TIG welding route.

Cheers again

Mick

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Hello mate,

please see this link, this gear is the nuts. its about 25 quid for the kit, but does what it says on the tin.

www.aluminiumrepair.com If your a little handy its quite simple to do.

Cheers,

Tom,

Hi, what did you repair with it ?

Also what sort of torch did you use? (I watched the video, they always make it look easy)

What length were the rods, roughly ?

Thanks

Ross

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Hi, what did you repair with it ?

Also what sort of torch did you use? (I watched the video, they always make it look easy)

What length were the rods, roughly ?

Thanks

Ross

Hi ross,

i repaired the tank of my bully, well the holes where you bolt the tank on to the bike, aint leaked since. you get four rods about 12" long and a stainless wire brush, not alot for 25 quid, but better than trying to weld ally. i used a welding torch athough i do admit i found it quite easy, but i have done a fair bit of welding in my past.

regards,

tom,

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I've just ordered the starter pack and will keep you all informed, my previous knowledge is limited and amature. Personally I wouldn't trust a structural weld of mine, but tacking stuff together I can do OK and my soldering is fine. I'm probably a good judge of how easy for a beginner it is. I'll practice on my old mag' cover first then tackle the crank case after I've got some idea. The crack is fairly small and should be easy (....gulp... :thumbup: !).

I'll post before and after shots for you all to take the p@#s out of..

Cheers people, always very helpful... :D

Mick

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Hi ross,

i repaired the tank of my bully, well the holes where you bolt the tank on to the bike, aint leaked since. you get four rods about 12" long and a stainless wire brush, not alot for 25 quid, but better than trying to weld ally. i used a welding torch athough i do admit i found it quite easy, but i have done a fair bit of welding in my past.

regards,

tom,

Thanks Tom

I have oxy/acet, but a bit nervous at putting it on magnesium alloy !

Ross

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Thanks Tom

I have oxy/acet, but a bit nervous at putting it on magnesium alloy !

Ross

Ross,

Should be ok, warm it slowly and evenly, dont want to disort anything. like i say i used it on my tank no probs. all that said, HB Weld chemical metal is good as well, without "the heart in the mouth" taking a 1500 degree flame to your beloved mount feeling, i have seen sumps on diggers repaired with this gear. Caterpillar endorse the stuff, only prob is, it mixes up quite dark. Or use Sikaflex silicon, good gear, sticks like s***t to a blanket. i use it on the beta to seal the mag cover.

Tom,

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I've just ordered the starter pack and will keep you all informed, my previous knowledge is limited and amature. Personally I wouldn't trust a structural weld of mine, but tacking stuff together I can do OK and my soldering is fine. I'm probably a good judge of how easy for a beginner it is. I'll practice on my old mag' cover first then tackle the crank case after I've got some idea. The crack is fairly small and should be easy (....gulp... :thumbup: !).

I'll post before and after shots for you all to take the p@#s out of..

Cheers people, always very helpful... :D

Mick

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Ross,

Should be ok, warm it slowly and evenly, dont want to disort anything. like i say i used it on my tank no probs. all that said, HB Weld chemical metal is good as well, without "the heart in the mouth" taking a 1500 degree flame to your beloved mount feeling, i have seen sumps on diggers repaired with this gear. Caterpillar endorse the stuff, only prob is, it mixes up quite dark. Or use Sikaflex silicon, good gear, sticks like s***t to a blanket. i use it on the beta to seal the mag cover.

Tom,

Tom

Colour is not a problem as cases are black anyway, presently repaired with sanitary silicon !

Ross

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Mag cover and crank case. After pictures to follow.

Cheers

Mick

Ouch Mick,

Thats a nasty bit of chain rash on the casings there. go easy on the Mag cover, looks a bit thin in places. i was lucky when i brazed my tank as it was all uniform. i dont know if there is any store in bunging it in the misses's oven on the hotest it will go, may help out when applying some serious heat. hope it goes well.

Regards,

tom,

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