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My 90's Gas Gas Contact250 Project..

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I am happy you got it running. I told you if you hung in there you would get it :guinness: .

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  • J if it were me I would check out reed block up-turn and dump any fuel that has got into the crank heat up a good plug and maybe a squirt of easy start. failing that....... go for a beer ;-]

  • thats_a_five
    thats_a_five

    You say you turned the bike upside down and "a fair bit of fuel came out." Just to be clear, there will be fuel that comes from the carb bowl. That is not a problem, it is just the bowl draining.

  • Check the stator and HT lead then. Although your spark appears ok when out and against the frame the spark is only under atmospheric pressure, when under compression the stator may not be producing th

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  • Author

Will check that out! Today's mission is clutch though..

I have a Peugeot Speedfight 100 rear brake master cylinder, Aprilia SR50 clutch lever and lots of patients.

Lets hope I can have it riding in. Few hours!

  • Author

Modified the lever to fit the master cylinder, bled the clutch (took 30 seconds with a syringe so old one must have been blocked!)

Felt it, all feels lovely. Nice feeling lever.. I can hear a click from the engine like the clutches are engaging.. But nothing.. With the bike in gear and clutch pulled the rear wheel is solid. No difference between lever pulled or not!

Is this likely to be an internal clutch problem? Ie seized after 8 years? Or is the Moped brake master cylinder not manly enough?

Do you mean the plates are stuck together so that as soon as you start the motor and click it in gear, the bike just drives away? Pulling in the clutch does not seem to disengage? Does the lever feel right when you pull it in?

There are 2 main reasons the clutch will not disengage:

1) problem with the hydraulics on the master or slave cylinders, not pushing against the clutch springs.

If this is the [problem, you may be able to fix it by bleeding the system or possibly rebuilding the master or slave cylinders.

2) The clutch plates are sticking together even with adequate hydraulic pressure.

When the bike sits for a while, the oil squeezes out from between the plates. Then when you pull in the clutch lever, the plates still stick together. If you start the bike and ride it around, you can pull in the clutch and ride around giving it bursts of gas and it may separate the plates and the clutch will start working again. If it does not release after a few tries, you may have to disassemble the clutch and manually separate the plates, then reassemble.

I hope you get it working.

  • Author

Yes that's exactly what happens, if I put it in gear when the bike is running I would end up going through the fence! Haha.

The clutch is bled fine, I have used the back bleeding method, used about quarter of a litre and there is no air what so ever.

I did notice, when I closed the nipple, with the cap of a tried it to get a feel for the clutch and fluid squirted out the reservoir from the whole in there the fluid goes through? With the cap on it feels ok to pull, like it should work.

And you can hear it doing something in the gearbox as it clicks when you pull it.

Problem I have is I don't have a garden big enough to ride it in and do t have a back brake yet either so can't risk riding it trying to stop it on front brake only.

How easy are the packs to get to?

  • Author

Do you think it is that then? Rather than the master cylinder from a rear brake on the 100cc scooter? The shop said it will do but I'm having doubts!

Modified the lever to fit the master cylinder, bled the clutch (took 30 seconds with a syringe so old one must have been blocked!)

Felt it, all feels lovely. Nice feeling lever.. I can hear a click from the engine like the clutches are engaging.. But nothing.. With the bike in gear and clutch pulled the rear wheel is solid. No difference between lever pulled or not!

Is this likely to be an internal clutch problem? Ie seized after 8 years? Or is the Moped brake master cylinder not manly enough?

Maybe it doesn't displace enough fluid to make the clutch work properly. I would sort this out, before dismanteling the clutch.

Yes that's exactly what happens, if I put it in gear when the bike is running I would end up going through the fence! Haha.

The clutch is bled fine, I have used the back bleeding method, used about quarter of a litre and there is no air what so ever.

I did notice, when I closed the nipple, with the cap of a tried it to get a feel for the clutch and fluid squirted out the reservoir from the whole in there the fluid goes through? With the cap on it feels ok to pull, like it should work.

And you can hear it doing something in the gearbox as it clicks when you pull it.

Problem I have is I don't have a garden big enough to ride it in and do t have a back brake yet either so can't risk riding it trying to stop it on front brake only.

How easy are the packs to get to?

This is normal.

  • Author

Is there anyway I can see if it is up to the job without just buying a new one?

If you've still got the original clutch lever, compaire the stroke the plunjer makes when you pull the lever, and the diameter of the plunjer.

  • Author

They seem pretty much similar?

I think this is just a surface tension problem regarding your clutch plates, probably due to the bike being laid up for so long. Engine off, put the bike into top gear, clutch in and rock the bike back and forward 'til it frees off. Then do your start up procedure.

  • Author

Well, I tried what a few people recommended (start the bike, kick it into 2nd and work the clutch)

Lets just say this didn't end well! Uncontrollable drifting through the garden, no back brake and kill switch had dropped off the bar and couldn't get enough weight over back wheel to kill it! Haha

Gave up with that suicide mission!

Stipped the clutch pack, all were free until I got to the very last one! They were stuck so prized the, apart, cleaned and rebuilt..

Cutch lever feels totally different now (wont pull all the way in so think it needs adjusting)

And I can put it in any gear and bike rolls freely! Like the clutch Is permanently pulled in now! Opposite to before!

I'm hoping this is just master cylinder, I'm going to release pressure from bleed nipple so the master cylinder is not connected to the clutch and try put the bike in gear and go from there..

Before looking pretty grimey!

th_cad8282fe64a668f591cf9ea267ab5f4_zps54998af8.jpg

Before adjusting the clutch take the cover back off and make sure the pressure plate is in the correct position. It will only go in 1 way and if its not there you won't get full travel on the leaver- I have done this myself. Lol.

I have the same issue on my 1992. I haven't even looked into yet because of all the snow we have right now. But the first time I clicked it into gear in my garage I almost crashed into my toolbox LOL.

Yet again I will recommend videos on youtube haha. There are a couple about our hydraulic clutches. One on the clutch itself and one on proper lever adjustment. If that is not adjusted properly that will prevent the clutch from working.

Here is the adjustment video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh3pm3z7CdY

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