I've been out of the loop with a broken bike for a while. Long story short, I broke every spring in the gearbox including the ones in the shifter drum. I also had to replace a couple clutch plates to keep the pack in spec. The bike is a 2002 280 Pro.

My new plates are probably 2010 or 2011 mixed with a couple older 2002 plates that were still good. I'm running the recommended GM oil in it currently and its sticks terribly. I can kinda get it to unstick after a while but it still wants to walk when I'm trying to track stand. The trick of holding the rear brake while putting it into gear just stalls it. The clutch feel fine.

Any suggestions what I should look at? Different gear oil?

If the finger height is with in specs I would be looking at the m/c or the O-rings in the clutch case.

If the finger height is with in specs I would be looking at the m/c or the O-rings in the clutch case.

Yes. I messed with the lever adjustment more today and managed to get some more clutch but I still have enough drag to stall the bike with the brake on. Otherwise it's got a little creep which is annoying.

With the clutch height in spec, the pro clutch works well(not quite well enough to roll back a long ways)enough. Either the master cylinder is bleeding by or the O-rings could use replacing. Has the clutch cover been updated?

Dear Deerhurts...

Where did you read ANYWHERE, if you would please, (from your OP) "GM Spec" transmission fluid? Everyone for the last 3 5 years been saying get that AutoTRAC 2 **** out of your (GASGAS) bikes!!! GASGAS UK has warning posted about it.

GASGAS clutches drag slightly, ALWAYS since the 2002 PRO engine. it is minimal, hard to find neutral at dead stop, but shouldnt kill the engine... It might creep slightly but it is enough, that you adjust your "IDLE" with the BIKE IN GEAR, HOLDING IN THE CLUTCH, ASSUMING YOU HAVE EVERYTHING IN SPEC, best you can...

if this is NOT how yours is working, you have a problem you have not fixed.

Edited June 29, 201313 yr by sting32

Dear Deerhurts...

Where did you read ANYWHERE, if you would please, (from your OP) "GM Spec" transmission fluid? Everyone for the last 3 5 years been saying get that AutoTRAC 2 **** out of your (GASGAS) bikes!!! GASGAS UK has warning posted about it.

GASGAS clutches drag slightly, ALWAYS since the 2002 PRO engine. it is minimal, hard to find neutral at dead stop, but shouldnt kill the engine... It might creep slightly but it is enough, that you adjust your "IDLE" with the BIKE IN GEAR, HOLDING IN THE CLUTCH, ASSUMING YOU HAVE EVERYTHING IN SPEC, best you can...

if this is NOT how yours is working, you have a problem you have not fixed.

Well, my bike is older then 3-5 years and the clutch plates are slightly different material now. I also said I've been out of the loop for a while and have not gone to a comp in at least 3 years while the bike had been broken for a couple years till I have time from classes and work. Oh, and I'm from the US out in the middle of nowhere and do not follow anything from the UK if I can help it, except top gear.

It's super easy to find neutral in all gas gas bikes I've ridden. Fantic, not so easy.

I believe I stated a few times that everything to my knowledge inside the case is in prefect spec.

I never said I fixed a problem, simply improved upon the reduction of the symptoms. Yeah, it still has issues that I never had prior to clutch plate replacement. The clutch worked better far out of spec then it does in spec. I'm ok with minimal drag but stalling out when being held at rest is not minimal drag.

Please, if you have useful comments or information let me know and refrain from useless rants.

Well, my bike is older then 3-5 years and the clutch plates are slightly different material now. I also said I've been out of the loop for a while and have not gone to a comp in at least 3 years while the bike had been broken for a couple years till I have time from classes and work. Oh, and I'm from the US out in the middle of nowhere and do not follow anything from the UK if I can help it, except top gear.

It's super easy to find neutral in all gas gas bikes I've ridden. Fantic, not so easy.

I believe I stated a few times that everything to my knowledge inside the case is in prefect spec.

I never said I fixed a problem, simply improved upon the reduction of the symptoms. Yeah, it still has issues that I never had prior to clutch plate replacement. The clutch worked better far out of spec then it does in spec. I'm ok with minimal drag but stalling out when being held at rest is not minimal drag.

Please, if you have useful comments or information let me know and refrain from useless rants.

When you say "in spec", what measurement are you using?

Jon

Oh, and I'm from the US out in the middle of nowhere and do not follow anything from the UK if I can help it, except top gear.

Trials Central is from the UK .............

When you say "in spec", what measurement are you using?

Jon

Thais:

http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Pro/clutch-measurements.html

Trials Central is from the UK .............

I cant really help that. We dont exactly have the same trials scene in bike or moto as you guys. The US's best trials forums is primarily bike trials.

Do gotta say, you guys are dam fine riders.

This:

http://www.gasgas.co...asurements.html

The reason I asked is that there are two measurements on that diagram, the measurement for the clutch pack and the measurement for the finger height with the clutch assembled. I've generally found that the finger height to be the better one to use as it is a more accurate representation of component relationship under actual operating conditions.

When using the 2002 fiber plates, they had a problem with swelling (material was changed in later clutch packs) and this may be contributing to your problem, especially if you used the clutch pack measurement to set the adjustment rather than the assembled measurement.

Assuming you have appropriate clearance at the lever adjustment screw/ M/C plunger in order for the piston to fully retract, another issue may be that the lip on the M/C piston is worn and there is a slight taper in the M/C bore from normal use (if the M/C is the same one that came with the bike over 11 years ago). If that is the case, the piston wil not seal in the bore until it travels past the enlarged part of the bore at the beginning. A M/C rebuild kit will solve that problem.

I also have a 2002 280 Pro, since new, and have used the GM AutoTrac II for years with no problems. A slight amount of drag is normal and for most riders, actually makes clutch modulation under difficult conditions easier as it keeps the driveline "loaded".

Jon