I will change the oil now every 4 trials purely for the reason you state.

What does Sherco quote as an oil change interval?

Taking a trial as 2 hours running thats 8 hours minimum.

On 4 stroke Yamaha MX bikes the guys I know change the oil every 2nd or 3rd meeting - ie after 2 - 3 hours maximum. On my TLR's I change the oil every 2nd or 3rd trial.

Both these bikes have a significantly larger oil capacity than the Sherco and both use a conventional oil pump.

For the little cost of 800ml of oil it may well be worth while considering changing the oil on a much more frequent interval?

Sherco recommend...

'Change oil after the first 5 hrs, then after every 30Hrs'!!!!

I too have settled on changing oil every 4 th trial.

Did mime last night, elswhere on this forum it has been stated that the sump drain plugs on the 4T are NOT interchangable.

I have measured mine with a pair of verniers and they are identical, as you'd expect, any other 4T owner care to comment?

RE500

Sherco recommend...

'Change oil after the first 5 hrs, then after every 30Hrs'!!!!

Perhaps this is a remnant of the 2 stroke Sherco's manual?

Perhaps this is a remnant of the 2 stroke Sherco's manual?

Nope, from the Service Tips for the Sherco 4T.

Available from the Sherco website.

RE500

Edited June 28, 200521 yr by RE500

I will change the oil now every 4 trials purely for the reason you state.

On 4 stroke Yamaha MX bikes the guys I know change the oil every 2nd or 3rd meeting - ie after 2 - 3 hours maximum. On my TLR's I change the oil every 2nd or 3rd trial.

Both these bikes have a significantly larger oil capacity than the Sherco and both use a conventional oil pump.

For the little cost of 800ml of oil it may well be worth while considering changing the oil on a much more frequent interval?

MX and enduro bikes are a different kettle of fish, high revving for long periods....

Never go near fully synth oil either, good for road racing of your average R1, but no good for us real bike riders

Never go near fully synth oil either, good for road racing of your average R1, but no good for us real bike riders

Difference of opinion here I'm afraid.

With only 800ml of oil in your motor and an engine which will get very hot I personally would be going for the best oil I could afford - ie fully synthetic. Run the bike in on mineral or semi synth oil then bite the bullet and buy the best quality you can afford.

Especially if you use the 30hour oil change suggestion.

Just an opinion !

Regarding other bikes that have not used an oil pump in a 4t engine: the 1980's Husqvarna 4t engines were also like this. Probably they were designed by the same people as did the Husaberg. I remember reading at the time, that this was common in speedway bikes, though I can't verify that fact.

Probably they were designed by the same people as did the Husaberg

This is very close to the truth but the Husky and Husaberg names are the wrong way round

The Husaberg was designed and built by the same people who built the 1st Husky 4 strokes - (Husky 4 stroke production started around 1984)

As far as I remember the reason Husaberg started up in Sweden in 1988 was because Husqvarna (originally a Swedish Company) was bought over by Cagiva in 1986 with production moved to Italy in 1988.

Essentially the 1st Husabergs were developments of the first Husky 4strokes.

Bit off topic but it aint the first discussion that goes down this route!

Edited June 28, 200521 yr by g4321

Yes, I am aware that the Husqvarna was the original design. My post doesn't really say which was first, I assumed most people would know. Thankyou for clarifying things

P.S. The original subject here was F.I. vs. carb., my post is not the first hijack here!

Edited June 29, 200521 yr by brucej

RE 500,

Yes the drain plugs are identical , BUT, one of them has an alloy washer between the O-Ring and the head, that gives clearance between the crank and the drainplug magnet.

Re the discussion of 4T`s running too hot ??? My experiance is if an engine is running too hot, the first thing it does is boil. Anyone had boiling problems?????

No Howard, To the contrary, it runs very hot but no problems at all. Fan kicks in for about 80% of the time on a hot day. If it was on all the time then I would think it would be boil for sure

Never go near fully synth oil either, good for road racing of your average R1, but no good for us real bike riders

Difference of opinion here I'm afraid.

With only 800ml of oil in your motor and an engine which will get very hot I personally would be going for the best oil I could afford - ie fully synthetic. Run the bike in on mineral or semi synth oil then bite the bullet and buy the best quality you can afford.

Especially if you use the 30hour oil change suggestion.

Just an opinion !

A very good road racing mechanic told me that Fully synth oil was 'too good' for our low revving engines.

Glazing of the bore is a real problem, a top end strip down and honing of the bore will then have to follow...... don't fancy that hassle so I'd stick to my semi synth thank you very much

I think that modern multigrade oils are very good these days, I would guess you could probably get away with using Castrol GTX if you did stick to the four trials oils change rule.

each to there own I guess

Edited June 29, 200521 yr by Marky G

Does anyone know much how the Injection system on the 4RT works yet? Would be interesting to mod the 4T and put injection on it to see what effect it has ?

RS, Do you know any specialist peeps who know about this stuff who I could ask? Im interested to know how the firing sequence works and does it advance and retard the timing of it depending on RPM ?

thanks

Edited June 29, 200521 yr by Webmonkey

The 4RT 'brain' for fuel or ignition can't be remapped. If you want to get involved in altering the power characteristics by remapping you need to buy the replacement module or whatever it that's needed.