Wfo's method of tensioning is the way I normally do it as well.

Chappo, try chapping down on the rod from the top after removing nut 11, sometimes that will break the lock of the wedges. The locknut doesn't need to be rived up, that's how the wedges jam as they damage the surface of the rod. I don't know the torque setting but lightly nipped up is fine.

Craig

Thanks guys, new parts ordered, will be here in a couple of days.

Let you know if it's cured the problem.

Craig's bang on there....you need to push/tap the rod down to break the taper lock, and then pull up on the rod then lock the nut. WFO is also correct as a Honda mechanic told me the 'trick' too.

It was kinda funny the service manager came around and issued all of us this exciting new special tool, a spoke, we were like WTF do we do with this lol

THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO CONTRIBUTED.

GOT TWO NEW WEDGES AND AS I TOOK IT APART I FOUND THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD ONLY PUT ONE WEDGE IN FOR WHATEVER REASON.

NOW WITH THE AIDE OF THAT VERY EXPENSIVE HONDA TOOL ( A SPOKE ) I GOT THE TENSION RIGHT AND LOCKED IT UP.

WE NOW HAVE A VERY QUIET TLR.................NEW QUESTION BEING POSTED ABOUT ERRATIC TICKOVER.

REGARDS.

But what happens if I use a old Fantic or Yamaha spoke !

But what happens if I use a old Fantic or Yamaha spoke !

You might have to use two stroke oil after.