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Everything posted by craig10

  1. craig10

    250 4rt crank

    Ok I get it now, it's a roller bearing and the inner race is on the crank, can certainly hear the knocking in the video. I thought it would be a ball race like the old motors hence the Loctite suggestion. Not that many options as it would prove difficult to remove the inner race from the shaft without damaging it although I've seen similar drop off getting quick heat into them. It may be worth measuring up the race or take the crank into your local bearing factor to measure it to see if they can get you anything similar but it may be that Honda have their own unique sizes. As you say, probably best to try a new roller first before going down the rabbit hole...
  2. craig10

    250 4rt crank

    How much wear are we taking about? Does the new bearing just drop on to the shaft / did you have to pull the old one off or did it come off easily? If it feels like just a transition fit then Loctite 641 Bearing Fit would be worth a go. P.S. You could upload the video to Youtube and put the link on here Craig
  3. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1164445
  4. Yes if you're using Castrol Power 1 the 'Racing' branded one is the fully synth. Occasionally pops up in Tesco's garages at £3 a litre, always worth a quick glace if you're in paying for fuel.
  5. The drawing in the Clymer book is for the CB/XL/SL series of engines which have a different set-up on the engine left side. Those engines have an internal flywheel where the stator coils are outside the magnet, the genuine TL engines have an external flywheel where the stator coils are held inside the cover referred to by Naichuff with the rotor spinning around the outside of them. What letters does the engine number start with? This is what the TL casing should look like, the hole at the top is where the timing pointer should be.
  6. Not quite following what you mean by "Plenty of spark but no ignition". Do you mean you have a spark at the plug but the engine's not firing up?
  7. It's the grooves that have a wedge shape to the back of them, you'll see it in the profile of the seals once fitted
  8. You could try measuring the distance from the swingarm pivot centre to the rear axle centre, should be the same both sides. That will tell you if your cams are correct. Maybes your wheel has been rebuilt with a different offset to the original, I'm sure someone on here could give you an offset reading from an unmolested wheel as a check.
  9. I just use Michelin heavy duty enduro tubes and carry a bog standard old style motorcycle puncture outfit. The HD tubes (not the ultra hd ones) seem to help guard aginst compression punctures. I don't personally carry any of the aerosol type repairs but I'm sure some will come along who do. One time I was spectating at the Manx Classic and the CoC took control of a puncture repair for a guy who had got left behind. He left the wheel in place, took the tyre off one side of the rim then slipped the tube out as far as poss without removing the valve from the rim. He then found and pulled a thorn out the tyre, pumped the tube up, found the leak, patched it and the guy was on his way in what seemed like minutes compared to taking the wheel out. Obviously not so easy to run your hand round the inside of the tyre to check it's clear but if there's an obvious cause then you're mostways there.
  10. Vinnie, go for the one with the wide neck, that way you can fill it at a petrol pump if need be as well as from your petrol can. The small diameter neck ones are a PITA, you need to use a funnel to fill them. Also, I recommend you get the clear Fuel Friend, saves covering your boots in petrol when filling them up. And you know how much is in it when part full. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Jerry-Can-2l-HDPE-Bike-ATV-Scooter-Fuel-Friend-Germany/1207932472?_trksid=p2047675.m4096.l9055 Craig
  11. This parts list might help Ron https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tl125s-trials-1976-usa_model1106/partslist/F++05.html#results There's a picture of that top plug, p/n 13, and a spring clip that holds it in. By the shape of the spring seat you may have to depress said seat down about 6mm to gain access to the clip, p/n 16 Hope that helps.
  12. No problem, I've done similar a number of times. Just make sure you're totally road legal including the size of your number plate, if seen the Plod will likely pull you just for the novelty value.
  13. From the Gas Gas dealers list: Alspan Motorcyles North England 15 Nelson Street, Crook, Co. Durham, DL15 9HJ 07900288705 alspan.aw@googlemail.com
  14. Great stuff Blueflag, I love this kind of work to keep the old ones going
  15. Interesting bit of machining Blueflag, how tight a fit are you going for on your liner, given the different coefficients of expansion of steel / alloy? And how are you going to stop the liner from turning, just by the interference fit alone? Or with the aid of a bit of Loctite or similar? Cheers, Craig
  16. Correct Ross, at about 1.50 here
  17. craig10

    petrol tank paint

    Hi Marky Boy, What kind of paint you using? The modern rattle can stuff seems to just dissolve at the first sniff of petrol.
  18. Great slo-mo of Graham Jarvis double blipping here. Yes it's an enduro bike but all his techniques come from trials.
  19. Fantastic snapshot of a bygone age, thanks for uploading these
  20. Now here if anyone's looking for it http://www.twinshock.org.uk/category/bike-projects/honda-tl125-s-1978/
  21. Scorpa 125 4 stroke has to be the softest ever starter, you can start them using your hand. Not to everyone's taste of course and been a while since they were available, the last ones did have electric start though.
  22. Something like these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-28mm-35mm-Black-Motorcycle-Headlight-Bracket-Fork-Mount-Universal/302096787604?epid=2165697583&hash=item46565f2894:g:17oAAOSw8gVX9KjX You might need a 6v bulb, sorry but I've no idea about TY electrics
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