the dabster Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Dont forget, when a hot motor hits cold water, the rapid cooling will create a vacuum inside the case and literally suck in any water. I think JSE posted some pics of his mag side vent mod he did to his bike to prevent a vacuum build up. If you ride in alot of streams, worth a look. I vented my old 250, and noticed it stayed nice and dry. I have been lazy and haven't touched my 2011 280, so its a do as I say type of thing in my case. Did you get your air filter wet? I like those exhaust plates that act as a splash guard for (help) preventing water splash into the air box opening. No the water wasn't anywhere near the air filter, barely over the mag cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the dabster Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Prolly better than ours as I get it, but somewhere along the line I believe he stated just getting the regular gas and not the 98 RON or whatever you call it. I would think if these Raga bikes do come with the high comp head they will surely need it!? as most the bikes seem to anyway. It always amazes me the tangents some get onto with no comprehension. Some seem to think it need an overhaul! Water got into it through the sidecase so made it ping! and hesitate! I'm thinking out loud because I am running out of ideas. In reflection logic points to a lean mixture because of the symptoms (pinging, hunting, trying to die off. engine making 'clanking' noises on throttle blip etc etc) how this comes about is baffling because for the first 30 mins bike runs relatively well but begins to produce symptom's similar to lean fuelling after a period of hot running. The reason I cited the water crossing was it happened from cold this time and simultaneous to me dropping into the stream. In my ignorance I am asking those with knowledge if there could be a reason to do with the stator plate being immersed in water that would cause the engine to strangle or was it just coincidence. I didn't mean to create confusion, I do understand only fuelling and not ignition creates 'lean' mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Dab - did you check your fuel flow? I had a bike that would run lean over time, especially when fuel was in demand, and it turned out the fuel tank vent was clogged. Also - I dont mind confusing questions as im confused most of the time and it makes me feel right at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 How steep was the drop into the stream ? The bike tipping forward normally causes engine to flood / run rich but if the float is defective ? Heat also does funny things ie expansion. I have seen one kehin carb poorly cast which actually leaked air when hot. Inlet gasket ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the dabster Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Dab - did you check your fuel flow? I had a bike that would run lean over time, especially when fuel was in demand, and it turned out the fuel tank vent was clogged. Also - I dont mind confusing questions as im confused most of the time and it makes me feel right at home. Funny you say that, I was speaking Keihin parts supplier about buying some more jets/slide etc and he suggested I test those things too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the dabster Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 How steep was the drop into the stream ? The bike tipping forward normally causes engine to flood / run rich but if the float is defective ? Heat also does funny things ie expansion. I have seen one kehin carb poorly cast which actually leaked air when hot. Inlet gasket ?Not steep it was the water cover the flywheel plate that made me think. Checked all the gaskets, all seemed fine the poorly cast carb is an example of something rare that no-one would think of. I getting to the stage of 'anything is possible' when considering what's wrong. The difficulty is problem is so subtle. Spoke to a mate tonight who is well versed in splitting these engines and he told me it is unlikely to be crankcase seals. He said the mag side is a double seal now and the clutch side rare if ever a problem, in his experience on a gasser. Will re-check inlet gasket flange and fuel tap filter and breather move the float tab another bit; if all else fails I'll order a new 4rt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Add this into the mix then, went out on mine yesterday and bike started to run lean / ping when I was crossing small stream. Defo seemed to be the water that affected it. When I got home I pulled the flywheel cover and it had water in there and rust on the flywheel bolt and on the wheel itself. What sort of problems would water cause in here? Going to seal with silicon gasket compound tomorrow when it's all dried out. Did you do the float level? You can`t just silicon the mag cover. Either silicon it and put a proper vent or just drill a hole in the bottom for water to escape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the dabster Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Did you do the float level? You can`t just silicon the mag cover. Either silicon it and put a proper vent or just drill a hole in the bottom for water to escape.When I looked at the floats according to the tutorial on splatshop website (UK Keihin supplier) they were within range. Having said that I will bend the tab slightly to see if it does make a difference. I thought of this previously but was put off when I considered the fact the level seemed sufficient for the first 30mins running from cold Forgive my ignorance again but if the mag cover is sealed surely water won't get in? I am quite happy to drill a hole in the bottom of the cover if this is the correct thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Boatloads of sealant may work for alittle while, but water will get sucked in over time(per the vacuum, that's even stronger now because its sealed better) and will now have a more difficult way out. Hence, your ignition will ALWAYS be wet! Letting it drain out, per the drilled hole, will let it eventually dry out. I prefer the vent for anyone who rides in alot of water (read anyone who lives/rides in England) - occasional water crossings - the hole is OK. I used yamabond on the cover gaskets of my 250 (vented) and it was always very clean inside. Also, make sure you dont over torque the cover or it will warp. You can find low profile 90 degree fitting and hose as a aquarium supply store. Cheap too! Run the hose up the front frame strut and under then tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Wont the flywheel area vent from where the cabling comes out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Wont the flywheel area vent from where the cabling comes out ? That the type of vent that lets water in, but doesn't let it out. Dont know. All I can personally say is that I used play in a stream alot and was concerned with all the crap I was finding in the side case and air box. After I vented the case, I noticed a much cleaner/dryer mag side. In terms of pulling a vacuum still, that would depend on alot of factors. I think venting is a good idea, but thats just an opinion. After you invest the time in doing these types of things to your bike, it kind of becomes a feel good item, so I may be all wet in terms of objectiveness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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